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Finished everything up. I am waiting on my TT2s in 17x9.5 and 17x8 to come in. Ended up going with 285 rear and 245 front. Hope it looks good
I also got the trans done, 3.36 gears put in the rear. And my 406 is at the machine shop getting assembled. Should be pretty nice when its all done
I'm hoping the tires will work.
Your fuel lines are needing a little bit more attention. And the area where the fuel line runs down the side of the inner frame rail and begin to bend at the gusset....they REALLY need to stay together...when they run in front of the gusset. The line is further out and you need to address this. I know I would.
And for what it is worth....many companies who make the fuel lines do not get them exactly correct....I know when it comes to fuel brake lines....In-line tube has for the most part offered the best fitting lines.
And....knowing that you are using stainless steel brake lines. MAKE NO MISTAKE ABOUT IT. The brake line that goes to the LEFT REAR brake line junction block. You really want to make sure that you seat the line...by installing it..getting it tight...loosening it and tightening it again. The reason is....when you have the body on the frame...trying to tighten this fitting for the rear line is REALLY hard to do unless you have a modified flare wrench or modified flare crow foot like I have. Just passing that along... because in the brake system...that area is where I have an 'eagle eye' and look for leaks....not writing the other fitting connections are not just a s important...but that one is the worst to tighten if you do not have a tool to do it with the body on the frame.
I fit and unfit the brake blocks several times trying to get the fit right. I am actually worried i may have boogered up the threads by the lines not fitting correctly. But in the end the lines all fit up. And everything is tight. Also on the fuel lines. The bending in them is a little off. So i had a hard time getting them right. Honestly. That is about the best i can get them without having to order new ones. The bends suck. I wish i could test the system somehow
Dub. What do you think about zip tying them in the areas where they bend apart?
NO zip-ties....or at least I would not use zip-ties.
Before I started using In-Line tube...I ran into this SAME area of the fuel lines basically always being bent incorrectly. I have seen this MANY TIMES before changing who I buy them from. And trust me.. I have really nice tubing benders and with my skill...it was a ROYAL PAIN in the backside to correct this bend from being wrong and making it almost undetectable. I mean a ROYAL PAIN!!!!
The fear I have for you is when you set your body down....the corner of the floorpan is either going to hit the line that is hanging out or cause a problem. That one fuel line is hanging out way too far to make me feel good about it and write all kinds of nice things to give you a false sense of security,. I JUST DON'T DO THAT. I wrote what I saw...and DO NOT want you to have problem. AND if you still have the factory lines hanging around...you will see that the factory had these two fuel lines Siamesed together.
I HATE to write this....but if you were working for me and called me over and asked me about this issue.....I would either teach you how you can possibly correct the bends to make it correct...or I would be getting a new line.....BUT...this is your car...do as you wish. Simply put...they bent the line wrong.
What company do you use ?? I will re order them. And fight with inline tube. Or can you bend me some stainless and sent them ?
DUB stated in post #2 that he uses "In Line". This appears to be the site but I am not sure as all I did was google In Line tube. Never mind they do not appear to be a vendor so posting the site I think is bad form.
What company do you use ?? I will re order them. And fight with inline tube. Or can you bend me some stainless and sent them ?
IF you got these fuel lines from who I 'bolded out' in the quote. I am shocked. I ahve NEVER had ones come in that far off from the correct placement of the bends so the lines stay together.
IF you did...send them an e-mail of the photos you posted.
The AIM shows the fuel lines positioned on the opposite side of the bolt at the clamp right before the kick up (circled in red). This should move it closer to the kick up and give you more clearance away from the body, although you'll still may need to do some re-bending as well.
The AIM shows the fuel lines positioned on the opposite side of the bolt at the clamp right before the kick up (circled in red). This should move it closer to the kick up and give you more clearance away from the body, although you'll still may need to do some re-bending as well.
John
John....GOOD EYE!!! VERY GOOD EYE! I was so caught up in the line being so far out and not bent correctly..I did not hone in on that small but important detail.
But I also agree...that does nothing to help with the bends not being correct.
Honestly. I have no idea. I dont have too much info for the frame. All i know is it was a 69 big block car. That the guy parted out. I bought it off him painted.