1970 - 454

The balancer seems to be firmly in place having not ever been removed since 1970. I am using quality harmonic puller tool from Sealey and I have screwed it down pretty tight now but no movement yet I have tried some WD40. Before I really pile on the pressure any tips?

1) Whats the best way to stop the engine turning when doing this?

2) Should I consider using any gentle heat?

 

with oil pan off and a flex plate bolted down securely slide a heavy duty screw driver or pry bar through one of the holes in the flexplate and slowly bring it up to the block like along the oil pan rail until it stops the engine from turning then spray the crap out of the balancer crank are with pb blaster or similar put some oil on the threads of the puller center bolt helps it turn when things start to bind.

 

I have had some seriously stubborn balancers...but never had to worry about the engine rotating while trying to remove the balancer.

You can use heat....just do not get it too hot and you want to heat the balancer and stay away from the crank so the balancer hub will slightly expand.

Knowing that clearance issues can be an issue. You can also use an air hammer that does not have a lot of hammer force and shock the center hub of the balancer slightly to aid in breaking the taper. I AM NOT saying it KILL it with the air hammer...but just vibrate it so aid it while it is under tension.

DUB

 

Use a 50/50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid, not the wd40-it is not a rust penetrater. Let it soak overnight. Be really careful not to damage the threads in the nose of the crank. Grease the threads of the puller.

 

Put the bolt back in minus the washer, grease up the puller threads good and hit it with a 1/2 inch impact.

 

A quality balancer puller {snap on} and a 1/2 inch impact gun....A good one removes and installs a balancer.....

 

On my '93 LT1, I followed the CF advice to raise the car high enough to use a hammer and a long bar to hit the damper hub from behind. A couple of stout whacks and it was off.

 

Your kidding, right........

 

I just used that technique on my pressure washer pump, due to lack of a proper puller. Now I get to buy a new pump for $149.......

 

That's a good way to ruin the rubber ring in the balancer.

It's not a tapered fit. It's a slight interference fit. An air hammer isn't going to break anything, except the balancer.

 

EDIT....nevermind...read the post wrongly.

 

I'll try lots of penetrating oil over week then try again. Any other tips welcomed.

Paul

 

I hope so...

I have removed dozens of stubborn dampers with a cheapo Taiwan harmonic balancer remover...never came across one that was difficult. most of them come off by hand with a 3/8 ratchet. a long 1/2" breaker bar should do it as well.

I would be Leary of using heat. oil is flammable...so is fiberglass...

 

Ironcross...the balancer is separate than the hub on a 93 LT-1...the hub and the balancer are two pieces.......so what he wrote is correct. Because the balancer can get really stuck the the hub that is on the end of the crank. I have encountered this issue with LT-1's...and yes....getting the balancer to come off the hub can be a challenge....but I am not killing it with a hammer...but they can get REALLY STUCK. I can CONFIRM that. And I have the specific Kent-Moore tool to service the hub...but there is NO tool to pull the balancer...the area you are working in is really tight and restrictive...even with the correct tools...it is a 'back breaker'.

Lets see...I wish you read what I wrote. Getting it as hot as it would be when driven. What is wrong with that???? I did not type to get it so hot that it smoked. And anybody who uses heat to expand metal so something can come off if needed....should know that you do not go in and heat the heck out of it. The trick is to heat the part you want to expand...so it is a quick process of heat. Because once you have the part and what it is stuck to heated to the same temperature...you are doing nothing at all but adding heat. I have heated up many parts with rubber right beside it and nothing happens to the rubber.


OK...OK...OK...the end of the crankshaft is not tapered...I get that....so my mistake. The woodruff key plays a significant role in it getting to a point where the balancer stops. NOT a typical taper...I get that...but to get an interference....the dimensions have to do what???? uhhhh...possibly 'taper' slightly???

DUB

 

No taper, not even slight. In fact an interference fit means that the balancer hole is actually smaller (by about .003") than the crank snout it's going on. It is forcefully press fitted on.

 

I have the engine out of the car sitting on a stand so no problem getting to it or anything in the way. Thanks for the ideas so far.

 

I have before, not sure if it's correct, tightened center bolt on puller and give it a good whack with a hammer( a BFH) that has worked for me.

 

Oh, I read what you wrote, and it wasn't this:

No, you didn't say anything about smoke.

Unfortunately you assumed that everyone knows how to use heat to expand parts. A poor assumption, don't you agree?

How can a "professional" not know what an interference fit is?

C3 Stroker already covered this, but to reiterate, there is no taper anywhere with the balancer.

 

With a balancer that has been installed for a long time.....a premium puller with a good taper "foot" at the end and moly grease on the thread is all you need. Just hit it with an impact in short bursts to "crack" it loose.....once it gets past the initial "pop" from stop....it will come right off.
Do not be afraid to hit it with the impact.....but if it stalls and just goes Fa-da-da-da-da-da......stop!
Never had one that would not come off.

Jebby

 

Thanks Jebby and all it seem the best tips are use lots of easing oil, grease the puller thread and then carefully impact it, and tighten puller to release