Pulls to the right?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 231
Likes: 39
From: Imboden Arkansas
Pulls to the right?
I've had my 77 for about a month now and am working out minor things, but the car pulls hard to the right. I had it in an alignment shop today and they were unable to fix it. They got adjustments to the computer specs. It does have power steering. Tire air pressures were checked. Any thoughts?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,100
Likes: 12
From: Frederick Maryland
You could have a bad tire...tread separation or something else. That can cause pulling. Swap the front tires and see if it's the same or pulls the opposite way.
Also...you might have a brake hose collapsing internally...not uncommon on these cars after so long. The brake caliper might not be fully releasing. If you don't know how long since the hoses were last changed...if ever...it would be prudent to go ahead and have it done and the brake system fully checked.
Also...you might have a brake hose collapsing internally...not uncommon on these cars after so long. The brake caliper might not be fully releasing. If you don't know how long since the hoses were last changed...if ever...it would be prudent to go ahead and have it done and the brake system fully checked.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 231
Likes: 39
From: Imboden Arkansas
You could have a bad tire...tread separation or something else. That can cause pulling. Swap the front tires and see if it's the same or pulls the opposite way.
Also...you might have a brake hose collapsing internally...not uncommon on these cars after so long. The brake caliper might not be fully releasing. If you don't know how long since the hoses were last changed...if ever...it would be prudent to go ahead and have it done and the brake system fully checked.
Also...you might have a brake hose collapsing internally...not uncommon on these cars after so long. The brake caliper might not be fully releasing. If you don't know how long since the hoses were last changed...if ever...it would be prudent to go ahead and have it done and the brake system fully checked.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 231
Likes: 39
From: Imboden Arkansas
You might be on to something here. I suggested to alignment guy that it feels like power assist cylinder is pushing to one side after the tire rotation and brake check. Gotta try that tomorrow. Thanks!
Last edited by Oldriceguy; Aug 21, 2015 at 09:02 PM. Reason: Forgot something
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
Okay, here's how I go about adjusting my power steering control valve:
1. Remove the dust cap from the end of the valve.
2. Gather up a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7/16" socket.
3. Drive it on the crown of a straight road and see how it steers. If it pulls to the right pull to the shoulder of the road, turn your wheels all the way to the right, then turn the 1/4" NF adjustment nut about 1/8 turn CLOCKWISE.
4. Keep adjusting that 1/4" NF nut in 1/8" increments until it steers dead straight with your hands off the steering wheel.
5. Re-install the dust cap and you're done.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 231
Likes: 39
From: Imboden Arkansas
Okay, here's how I go about adjusting my power steering control valve:
1. Remove the dust cap from the end of the valve.
2. Gather up a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7/16" socket.
3. Drive it on the crown of a straight road and see how it steers. If it pulls to the right pull to the shoulder of the road, turn your wheels all the way to the right, then turn the 1/4" NF adjustment nut about 1/8 turn CLOCKWISE.
4. Keep adjusting that 1/4" NF nut in 1/8" increments until it steers dead straight with your hands off the steering wheel.
5. Re-install the dust cap and you're done.
1. Remove the dust cap from the end of the valve.
2. Gather up a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7/16" socket.
3. Drive it on the crown of a straight road and see how it steers. If it pulls to the right pull to the shoulder of the road, turn your wheels all the way to the right, then turn the 1/4" NF adjustment nut about 1/8 turn CLOCKWISE.
4. Keep adjusting that 1/4" NF nut in 1/8" increments until it steers dead straight with your hands off the steering wheel.
5. Re-install the dust cap and you're done.
I'll give that a try. Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 591
From: McHenry Illinois
Okay, here's how I go about adjusting my power steering control valve:
1. Remove the dust cap from the end of the valve.
2. Gather up a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7/16" socket.
3. Drive it on the crown of a straight road and see how it steers. If it pulls to the right pull to the shoulder of the road, turn your wheels all the way to the right, then turn the 1/4" NF adjustment nut about 1/8 turn CLOCKWISE.
4. Keep adjusting that 1/4" NF nut in 1/8" increments until it steers dead straight with your hands off the steering wheel.
5. Re-install the dust cap and you're done.
1. Remove the dust cap from the end of the valve.
2. Gather up a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7/16" socket.
3. Drive it on the crown of a straight road and see how it steers. If it pulls to the right pull to the shoulder of the road, turn your wheels all the way to the right, then turn the 1/4" NF adjustment nut about 1/8 turn CLOCKWISE.
4. Keep adjusting that 1/4" NF nut in 1/8" increments until it steers dead straight with your hands off the steering wheel.
5. Re-install the dust cap and you're done.
Correct way is to jack up and block the car. Disconnect the rod end of the assist cylinder. Start the engine and see if the cylinder extends or retracts by itself. Remove the dust cap from the valve, turn the adjustment one direction till the rod just begins to move, turn the adjustment back the other way while counting the number of turns till the rod just begins to move the opposite direction. Turn the adjustment back half the number of turns you noted and it should be centered. Reattach the rod to the anchor point and test drive.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 338
Likes: 9
From: South Bend IN
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Okay, here's how I go about adjusting my power steering control valve: 1. Remove the dust cap from the end of the valve. 2. Gather up a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7/16" socket. 3. Drive it on the crown of a straight road and see how it steers. If it pulls to the right pull to the shoulder of the road, turn your wheels all the way to the right, then turn the 1/4" NF adjustment nut about 1/8 turn CLOCKWISE. 4. Keep adjusting that 1/4" NF nut in 1/8" increments until it steers dead straight with your hands off the steering wheel. 5. Re-install the dust cap and you're done.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 231
Likes: 39
From: Imboden Arkansas
I watched the C&S Corvette video yesterday on replacing the power steering control valve. Good video. I'm going to jack it up, remove tire and disconnect the assist rod from the frame and adjust it there.
Thanks Everyone.
Thanks Everyone.
Advanced
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 71
Likes: 6
From: Ray Twp Michigan
Power steering assist was what I was first thinking too because I just replaced mine this past week. The instructions that came with it sucked.
I found the "How-to" on Willcox's website and it was more clear, however, mine was still not quite right and was hard to turn to the right after adjustment so we had to tweak it a bit to even it out. Seems like the adjusting nut is very sensitive, just a slight turn makes a difference.
I found the "How-to" on Willcox's website and it was more clear, however, mine was still not quite right and was hard to turn to the right after adjustment so we had to tweak it a bit to even it out. Seems like the adjusting nut is very sensitive, just a slight turn makes a difference.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
Correct way is to jack up and block the car. Disconnect the rod end of the assist cylinder. Start the engine and see if the cylinder extends or retracts by itself. Remove the dust cap from the valve, turn the adjustment one direction till the rod just begins to move, turn the adjustment back the other way while counting the number of turns till the rod just begins to move the opposite direction. Turn the adjustment back half the number of turns you noted and it should be centered. Reattach the rod to the anchor point and test drive.
Yes this is the correct way to do it.
Okay, here's how I go about adjusting my power steering control valve:
1. Remove the dust cap from the end of the valve.
2. Gather up a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7/16" socket.
3. Drive it on the crown of a straight road and see how it steers. If it pulls to the right pull to the shoulder of the road, turn your wheels all the way to the right, then turn the 1/4" NF adjustment nut about 1/8 turn CLOCKWISE.
4. Keep adjusting that 1/4" NF nut in 1/8" increments until it steers dead straight with your hands off the steering wheel.
5. Re-install the dust cap and you're done.
1. Remove the dust cap from the end of the valve.
2. Gather up a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7/16" socket.
3. Drive it on the crown of a straight road and see how it steers. If it pulls to the right pull to the shoulder of the road, turn your wheels all the way to the right, then turn the 1/4" NF adjustment nut about 1/8 turn CLOCKWISE.
4. Keep adjusting that 1/4" NF nut in 1/8" increments until it steers dead straight with your hands off the steering wheel.
5. Re-install the dust cap and you're done.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
After re-sealing a control valve the initial adjustment CAN be done by disconnecting the rod and centering the valve but the final adjustment still needs to be made under actual driving conditions because there are dynamic forces involved when driving down the road. So what are these "dynamic" forces?
1. The pump is spinning a lot faster and pumping a greater volume of oil.
2. The frictional drag of the tires on the road causes the linkage to push/pull on the control valve ball stud which pushes and pulls on the control valve spool.
3. As the oil gets heated it thins which causes a change in the amount of force pushing against the control valve spool.
I've been making these roadside adjustments all the way back to the 1955 Chevrolets because they used the exact same system. In fact many 18 wheelers use the same system only much larger like 3' diameter cylinders and larger pumps.
1. The pump is spinning a lot faster and pumping a greater volume of oil.
2. The frictional drag of the tires on the road causes the linkage to push/pull on the control valve ball stud which pushes and pulls on the control valve spool.
3. As the oil gets heated it thins which causes a change in the amount of force pushing against the control valve spool.
I've been making these roadside adjustments all the way back to the 1955 Chevrolets because they used the exact same system. In fact many 18 wheelers use the same system only much larger like 3' diameter cylinders and larger pumps.
Advanced
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 71
Likes: 6
From: Ray Twp Michigan
This is what happened to me. We had it adjusted perfect then when we put it on the ground it was still hard to turn right. We tweaked it with the rod attached on the floor. Steers straight and does not pull at all now, plus, no more wandering.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
After re-sealing a control valve the initial adjustment CAN be done by disconnecting the rod and centering the valve but the final adjustment still needs to be made under actual driving conditions because there are dynamic forces involved when driving down the road. So what are these "dynamic" forces?
1. The pump is spinning a lot faster and pumping a greater volume of oil.
2. The frictional drag of the tires on the road causes the linkage to push/pull on the control valve ball stud which pushes and pulls on the control valve spool.
3. As the oil gets heated it thins which causes a change in the amount of force pushing against the control valve spool.
I've been making these roadside adjustments all the way back to the 1955 Chevrolets because they used the exact same system. In fact many 18 wheelers use the same system only much larger like 3' diameter cylinders and larger pumps.
1. The pump is spinning a lot faster and pumping a greater volume of oil.
2. The frictional drag of the tires on the road causes the linkage to push/pull on the control valve ball stud which pushes and pulls on the control valve spool.
3. As the oil gets heated it thins which causes a change in the amount of force pushing against the control valve spool.
I've been making these roadside adjustments all the way back to the 1955 Chevrolets because they used the exact same system. In fact many 18 wheelers use the same system only much larger like 3' diameter cylinders and larger pumps.
Maybe if you have loose or worn components or too much frame flex, or your alignment is poor, you get pull and you're adjusting the power steering to compensate for one or more of those factors.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
Might want to try it the easy way next time. Worked perfect for me. I didn't have to drive it to get it centered dead on.
Maybe if you have loose or worn components or too much frame flex, or your alignment is poor, you get pull and you're adjusting the power steering to compensate for one or more of those factors.
Maybe if you have loose or worn components or too much frame flex, or your alignment is poor, you get pull and you're adjusting the power steering to compensate for one or more of those factors.
Hey, that's good to know..................
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
Dynamic Forces Change Everything
The "easy" method is great for the initial adjustment but dynamic forces change once the car gets underway. As the piston area on the left side of the cylinder is considerably less than the right side the amount of hydraulic force available on the left side is considerably less and that's why it takes less effort to turn to the right than to turn to the left (you did know that, didn't you?).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 591
From: McHenry Illinois
A correct alignment is what keeps the car going straight. If you need to correct your alignment by tweaking the control valve, time to get the alignment right. It's a power assist, not an alignment corrector. Power steering fluid overheat could be a result.