OK Gurus,

Back story! Just re-did the doors…new regulators, new motors, new power lock motors ands switches, new pig tails, new panels…the works! Got everything buttoned up and cool all in the world is fine!!! 2 days later, boom…all of a sudden, no windows! When I work the center console switches, it's drawing power (lights dim), so I know power is to the switches…took off the door panel and checked the motor wires with my multimeter…power there…positive and negative (reverse polarity) when flipping the switches. Replaced the 30amp 12 CB. No Dice! Still the power draw on both sides when working the switch. (power dim).

So….what am I missing? I'm totally out of ideas! Everything was working great…then both went out at the same time….

 

bump

 

Run a test jumper ground to the motor... see if this solves your problem.

The ground for the motor is the door... might not be making good contact. Have you tried to run 12 volts straight to the motor? If you do this and don't get motor movement then definitely try the ground.

Willcox

 

Try what Willcox mentioned.

BUT..for the record...these power window motors are NOT reverse polarity. GM began using those type of window motors in 1984.....so...Applying 12 volts to ONE of the terminals in the motor will either make it go UP or DOWN....assuming that the motor is grounded.

I use my battery charger set at 40 amps. I disconnect the connector at the motor....connect my battery charger NEGATIVE cable to the door...and then I install a probe in the POSITIVE end of the battery charger cable and touch the terminal on the motor. IF is moves.,..GREAT...if it does not...I try the other terminal....not knowing if the window is stuck UP or in the DOWN position, IF it still does not move and I am getting a lot of arcing when I touch my probe.. I touch it again and tap the motor to shock it.

I have seen these new motors act up...I have not had 2 of them go bad at the same time...but I have had them needing to be shocked with amps and tapping on them to get them to move again.

More information can be given if none of this works for you due to even though you may get 12 volts to the motor connector...that does not confirm that the wire is supplying the needed amps to make the motor operate. I will hold off on that info unless you need it.

DUB