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Need Help ID-ing This Distributor/Cap/Rotor

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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 03:24 PM
  #1  
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Default Need Help ID-ing This Distributor/Cap/Rotor

Hi All,
Just a few weeks into my new addition...

It's got a 350 in it, that was re-done a few years ago. Don't know exactly how long ago though. I'm thinking MAYBE somewhere between 2-5 years ago.
30 Over, blueprinted & balanced, no date on the shop's paperwork 1 page.

SOMETIMES a bit of blue smoke comes from the Driver's Side exhaust.
Pulled the plugs, and the Driver's Side plugs appeared to be a bit damp, so I cleaned & regapped 'em. Still a tad bit of smoke, but NOT always.

YES, that's duct-tape there on the cap. It was put there by who-knows-who, but it was holding a wire in place!

I pulled the Cap & rotor to see what they look like, and they dont' look bad at all, but I DO want to get a spare or two of each. So I could use some help in ID-ing these parts.

Also, any ideas on why the blue smoke, when the motor was redone not too long ago???
Unless of course, the motor shop botched the job...

I called the motor place that did the work, and they said they purchased the shop in December of 2014, and they don't have any records prior to then.
Previous owner doesn't know either.

Thanks Again,
Ben N
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 03:31 PM
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Here's the inside of the cap...
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 03:57 PM
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Stock type HEI, standard issue/one each.....caps were black plastic from GM, Gray for the rotor button, Can't comment on the smoking might try removing all plugs and cranking engine for a bit, see if any fluids come out the plug holes....long shot, but maybe.....pray for a worse case head gasket....

BUT more likely, the heads were angle milled, so that angle between the intake gasket surface and the plane of the head gasket has changed, if the shop wanted to bump compression, this is a common practice.....the only thing you can do is basically remove the intake and check the bottom of the intake gaskets for obvious oil damage, and check the bottom of especially the head intake passages for oil evidence on it.....

the angle milling tends to open the bottoms up to the lifter valley, the only cure I know of is thicker intake gaskets, and then use a thin coat of RTV black on each side around the bottom of the gaskets.....

and add maybe 5-10 lbs of torque to the bolts.....

RTV the living hell out of the front/rear China walls also.....

obviously all surfaces need be squeeky clean.....


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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Ben N
Hi All,
Just a few weeks into my new addition...

It's got a 350 in it, that was re-done a few years ago. Don't know exactly how long ago though. I'm thinking MAYBE somewhere between 2-5 years ago.
30 Over, blueprinted & balanced, no date on the shop's paperwork 1 page.

SOMETIMES a bit of blue smoke comes from the Driver's Side exhaust.
Pulled the plugs, and the Driver's Side plugs appeared to be a bit damp, so I cleaned & regapped 'em. Still a tad bit of smoke, but NOT always. Like mrvette said....it could be sucking oil into the head intake ports........or it could be valve stem seals not installed correctly/or loose intake manifold bolts/or piston rings not seated yet if the car was not driven after the rebuild

YES, that's duct-tape there on the cap. It was put there by who-knows-who, but it was holding a wire in place! You can buy the correct wiring connector from PepBoys and splice it into the wiring harness

I pulled the Cap & rotor to see what they look like, and they dont' look bad at all, but I DO want to get a spare or two of each. So I could use some help in ID-ing these parts. Like mrvette said....standard parts from a parts-store. Is it a Tach-drive distributor?

Also, any ideas on why the blue smoke, when the motor was redone not too long ago???
Unless of course, the motor shop botched the job... Same as first answers

I called the motor place that did the work, and they said they purchased the shop in December of 2014, and they don't have any records prior to then.
Previous owner doesn't know either. Do a compression test if you are able/write down the readings for each cylinder/it still depends if the engine was completely broken-in

Thanks Again,
Ben N
It also coulb be some piston rings that are "stuck/carboned-up"....putting a few thousand miles on the car after checking/repairing the above items could solve the smoking-problem.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 06:19 PM
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what year is the car? could be correct, even orig distributor. could be you wanna get the points-style it is supposed to have...
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 06:37 PM
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Thank you all.

It's a '69 'Vert.

Took it for another ride a little while ago before I took the dash apart, to see what's wrong with the radio.

Also, the car seems to be idling a bit hi at start-up IMHO @ ~1300-1500rpms (then it'll kick-down after it heats up a bit), and when it running it's "missing".

I also found a yellow/gold "Crossfire" Distributor Caps Chevy HEI diagram with the car's paperwork.
Soooo... I started to trace the sparkplug wires, to make sure they're in the correct positions on the cap, and there's a few wires that aren't in the "correct???" places according the diagram.

Right off the bat, I see that 7 & 5 are reversed (according the the diagram)


Ideas???


Thanks Muchly!!!
Ben N
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Ben N
Thank you all.

It's a '69 'Vert.

Took it for another ride a little while ago before I took the dash apart, to see what's wrong with the radio.

Also, the car seems to be idling a bit hi at start-up IMHO @ ~1300-1500rpms (then it'll kick-down after it heats up a bit), and when it running it's "missing".

I also found a yellow/gold "Crossfire" Distributor Caps Chevy HEI diagram with the car's paperwork.
Soooo... I started to trace the sparkplug wires, to make sure they're in the correct positions on the cap, and there's a few wires that aren't in the "correct???" places according the diagram.

Right off the bat, I see that 7 & 5 are reversed (according the the diagram)


Ideas???


Thanks Muchly!!!
Ben N
Bring the engine up to top dead center and make sure the firing order is correct
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 07:55 PM
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18436572 clockwise. that car orig had points. if there is a resistor wire going to dist hot, it will have weak spark. that dist should have full 12 volts. full voltage would burn points and ign coils up so they resisted it down. the high idle is normal. it could be tweaked down a bit, but it needs to not stall out when cold...my 75 sits about 1300 to 1500 at first, and it is a recent rebuild carb.

Last edited by derekderek; Sep 7, 2015 at 07:57 PM.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 08:33 PM
  #9  
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Thank You!

Here's the diagram I found with the car's paperwork.
Am I interpreting this incorrectly, or does the Firing Order look different than 18436572???

On the car right now, 5 & 7 are switched.
And I don't think 3 is where it is supposed to be... According to this diagram anyway.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 08:55 PM
  #10  
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ok, that diagram is to, I BELIEVE, some kind of strange cap where the electrodes cross inside the cap. your cap, it is pretty obvious, the electrodes go straight up and the rotor is firing the wire right where the rotor is. i don't know, did they use some kind of strange cap with the crossfire injection in 82? i am asking other members this question. edit; i just googled them. they crossed the electrodes inside the cap so the left cyls have wires come out on the left and the right on the right. avoiding crossed plug wires. now, i am not sure that that is or isn't such a cap. looking at inside view, i don't think so, but i can't say for sure. google crossfire distributor caps...

Last edited by derekderek; Sep 7, 2015 at 09:04 PM.
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