My First Road Trip

I took the beautiful, curvy, hilly back roads there and tossed my uncle the keys when he said, "What do you want to do?"
I then listened to him reminisce about his 'vettes, accidents, friends and Corvette related "conquests" as we drove for hours along even curvier and hillier roads and the occasional excellent but very rural highway.
His comment when he was able to first hit the accelerator was "nice, but nothing like my '69 [L88 special order]". Then, "I want a clutch." Next, "I have to be careful because I have a CDL and if I'm stopped playing around in an old 'vette I'll be told, 'You know better!'"
He talked of the '69: It would only do 135mph or so but it was INSANELY fast getting there. I had to sell it before it killed me. It could not turn at high speed. 15--I still remember the number--hits on a guard rail after I gave the keys to a bold and reckless friend.
He talked of his '74 L82: I never really liked it. It was hot. It was the first L82 with terrible engine and electrical problems .
He talked of his '78 Silver Anniversary L48: A dog.
He talked of my '79 L82: WOW! This handles better than my '69 when it was new! I haven't even floored it and it accelerates better than my '74 and '78. I just want a clutch!!!! After some carefully selected sections where the Jimmy Carter speedo became useless he was confident that it could reach the top speed he remembered from his 69'. We had a nice laugh when I talked about my very recent cruise on the German autobahn at about 135 mph @ 4,500 rpm when 4,500 rpm was about the cruising point when my speedo lost meaning
400 miles on the road trip at about 16 MPG. Not too bad considering a number of flooring accelerations, some safe high speeds and extremely hilly roads with only 50 miles or so cruising at 70 MPH on flat land to test my newly repaired cruise control.
All fluids stayed level. All were leaking when it was new to me. Temp went slightly above 220 only at sustained high RPM.
Idle actually improved. It took on a loping character that makes me wonder if the cam was replaced along with the intake manifold. My uncle's comment about the idle: "Great!"

You mentioned that it didn't have the "spoiler" package. If the front valence did not have any kind of air dam under it, that's why the engine ran hot at speed. An air dam is NECESSARY for proper cooling via airflow deflected upwards and through the radiator in a C3.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

You mentioned that it didn't have the "spoiler" package. If the front valence did not have any kind of air dam under it, that's why the engine ran hot at speed. An air dam is NECESSARY for proper cooling via airflow deflected upwards and through the radiator in a C3.
Everything in the front end is like the original as confirmed by the assembly manual. Such certainly includes the air dam that probably isn't original to the car.
I was though a bit concerned about temp above 220 at 80 or so ambient during heavy acceleration or 70+ cruising speed.
Thanks to an astute member here I was clued into the fact that my motor driven fan was installed backwards! Something tells me that I would have overheated had I not made correction!



The "CORVETTE" emblem on the rear bumper was already broken in half but the "TTE" fell off and I'm driving a "CORVE". I knew about that immediately.
I've developed a new transmission fluid leak that appears worse than the ones I repaired. I checked the level immediately upon coming home so I think the leak started shortly afterwards. I'd say nearly an ounce on the garage floor. Haven't yet lifted the car to find the location(s) of the leak(s).
The starter sounds sick and barely gets the car running. Previously it sounded OK if a touch coarse. Battery fully charged. Maybe it's just a worn wiring issue but the solenoid engages strongly and immediately.
The driver window that I have spent hours and hours trying to adjust properly on three different occasions still isn't right. That was the last repair I made and thought it was finally good. I can't get the inboard/outboard tilt adjustment correct at both the front and rear of the glass at the same time. Correct at the front and it's always too tight at the rear to raise fully with the door closed. Correct at the rear and it's too far out in the front and won't seal near the top of the glass. I completely disassembled everything in and on both of the doors for cleaning/lubrication/repair of bad parts. I didn't replace the regulator rollers on the driver side (they seemed find) but did replace the other rollers. I replaced all of the rollers on the passenger side which worked absolutely perfectly simply by putting all of the adjustment nuts onto their original witness marks (they weren't there when I disassembled). The gap between the door shell and the inner metal frame is inconsistent on the driver side and it really looks to me as if it is slightly deformed in a couple places along the top edge where it makes a 90 degree turn. I've used pressure and a rubber mallet to get the gap consistent (like the passenger side) but still think there's some distortion right by where the front and rear vertical guides attach.

























