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i believe it is an epoxy version of bondo. how does it differ from JB weld then? and would laying up a layer of regular glass to attach panels be overkill? i see panels come off with a heat gun and a putty knife. i wouldn't think epoxy would release from heat. or did they use a different compound in the 60's and 70's?
When GM discontinued the two part adhesive kits we switched over to a quick set black polyester adhesive for gluing the panels together. It was as close to the correct glue as we could find for front end assembly. However, the cure time was just as close to the GM stuff and this made for a fire drill when putting a front end on. You'd have to have everything exactly where it needed to be or you would end up with a mess.
Now we use SEM 39747 Multi-Purpose panel adhesive which affords us a much longer cure rate with the same bonding properties as the original glue.
Different epoxy glues are made for different items. JB weld wouldn't work well as a panel adhesive.... and just to add a bit more.... even the original panels would separate with a cutting knife and heat gun.
i believe it is an epoxy version of bondo. how does it differ from JB weld then? and would laying up a layer of regular glass to attach panels be overkill? i see panels come off with a heat gun and a putty knife. i wouldn't think epoxy would release from heat. or did they use a different compound in the 60's and 70's?
Evercoat VPA is another brand which is mixed with a hardener similar to mixing bondo but when it sets up it is much harder. Also Lords Fusor which is in 2 parts through a gun which I used to bond my donor clip. Setup time was about 40min. The heat gun and putty knife worked very well for me in removing my donor clip. Not an easy job though!
ZIO
Evercoat VPA is another brand which is mixed with a hardener similar to mixing bondo but when it sets up it is much harder. Also Lords Fusor which is in 2 parts through a gun which I used to bond my donor clip. Setup time was about 40min. The heat gun and putty knife worked very well for me in removing my donor clip. Not an easy job though!
ZIO
Exactly... The SEM has a longer dry time and I like it.. I've used the Evercoat too... good stuff but I'm old and slow now..
I made a tool years ago for cutting the panels off, if you go to my site and open the pdf link at the bottom you'll see how we made it, there is a good pic in that write up... It's sharp on both sides and zig zag'd.. but heat that bond and it's a awesome tool.. http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...-installation/
link didn't work for the knife. the headlight mounting bracket. it is just vpa stuck on the underside of the nose? i just got a 72 nose, and bracket is coming loose.
Exactly... The SEM has a longer dry time and I like it.. I've used the Evercoat too... good stuff but I'm old and slow now..
I made a tool years ago for cutting the panels off, if you go to my site and open the pdf link at the bottom you'll see how we made it, there is a good pic in that write up... It's sharp on both sides and zig zag'd.. but heat that bond and it's a awesome tool.. http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...-installation/
Willcox
Believe it or not I had the most success with an old fashion Slim Jim. I sharpened the sides and it was long and thin. Worked great. At 67 years old I agree the VPA sets up too quick for me.
ZIO
the headlight mounting bracket. it is just vpa stuck on the underside of the nose? i just got a 72 nose, and bracket is coming loose.
Originally, the bracket was riveted to the bonding strip.... then the bonding strip was glued on. I don`t know when they stopped using the rivets, but my 71 had them.
IF 72 still had them, it`s possible somebody removed the rivets from yours, they may not have used the right glue to re-attatch the bracket.
I used a 2 part 3M product... got it at the auto body & paint store. They said it would glue ANYTHING to ANYTHING!
This is an aftermarket nose-apparently. Guy i got it from thinks was made by legacy. So i don't care what chebby orig did. I care what i need to do to make this panel stay attached. Ine side is hanging loose.
Your right Mike, I probably should have been clearer. Was just trying to explain that VPA gets mixed with hardener similar to how you mix bondo. They are however used for different purposes. Like Mike mentioned bondo is a filler. Might have been little confusing.
ZIO
This is an aftermarket nose-apparently. Guy i got it from thinks was made by legacy. So i don't care what chebby orig did. I care what i need to do to make this panel stay attached. Ine side is hanging loose.
Then I would get some of the 2 part adhesive... Lord Fusor, or 3M, and the applicator gun. Get several clamps and a couple boards and glue that side back up. If the other side is still in tact, I`d leave it for now... you can always reglue the other side if it comes loose in the future.
Actually the Evercoat VPA is an adhesive for the regular fiberglass cars and NOT for the SMC cars. It IS used as a filler (bondo-like) for both fiberglass and SMC.
Evercoat SMC Panel Adhesive 994 in the bonding adhesive to use on SMC.
the upside-down nose in post 14; that is layed-up glass correct? and what years were smc and what years were standard fiberglass? and i am pretty sure this and all aftermarket pieces will not be SMC. also, bonding glass patch panels to SMC. use the SMC specific stuff?
the upside-down nose in post 14; that is layed-up glass correct? and what years were smc and what years were standard fiberglass? and i am pretty sure this and all aftermarket pieces will not be SMC. also, bonding glass patch panels to SMC. use the SMC specific stuff?
Yes, it looks like layed up, and I believe you`re right, aftermarket stuff will not be smc.
When I went to the auto paint & body store, and told them what I wanted to do (bond metal to fiberglass) they gave me the 3M 2 part, and said it would work on anything.... layed up, smc, metal, etc. Sorry I don`t have the product number for you, it was quite a while ago.
The 3-M part number oldgto is referring to I believe is 3-M 08219...composite metal bonding adhesive -35. Be prepared because it is very expensive but it works very well.