Solenoid: Service or Replace?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,236
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
Solenoid: Service or Replace?
Went to start up the 78...plenty of power but no crank. So I suspected a faulty connection. Got underneath and began to remove wires when I noticed the purple lead, (from ignition to S terminal, was loose. The nut had failed to fully tighten onto the nut that secures the screw onto the bakelite cover. In attempting to back off that nut, the screw twisted itself off with the nut. The crazy thing is it has started up without a hitch since my last engine work three years ago...go figure.
I started to take the solenoid apart...so it is off the starter. I suppose the cover (bakelite) just knocks off once all the nuts are loose. But what is my best bet, replace the screw or just replace the entire solenoid?
I started to take the solenoid apart...so it is off the starter. I suppose the cover (bakelite) just knocks off once all the nuts are loose. But what is my best bet, replace the screw or just replace the entire solenoid?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 14
From: Mobile Alabama
Went to start up the 78...plenty of power but no crank. So I suspected a faulty connection. Got underneath and began to remove wires when I noticed the purple lead, (from ignition to S terminal, was loose. The nut had failed to fully tighten onto the nut that secures the screw onto the bakelite cover. In attempting to back off that nut, the screw twisted itself off with the nut. The crazy thing is it has started up without a hitch since my last engine work three years ago...go figure.
I started to take the solenoid apart...so it is off the starter. I suppose the cover (bakelite) just knocks off once all the nuts are loose. But what is my best bet, replace the screw or just replace the entire solenoid?
I started to take the solenoid apart...so it is off the starter. I suppose the cover (bakelite) just knocks off once all the nuts are loose. But what is my best bet, replace the screw or just replace the entire solenoid?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 504
From: myrtle beach sc
Army
Tom, You are probably better off with a new one. Be careful, some of the replacements are a slightly smaller length. I would save the old one with the SAE brass nuts. New ones are steel and metric. Sorry to hear about your troubles. I over tightened one solenoid terminal once, and everything came loose on the inside, just like yours did.
One time on the 1973 Chevelle "tank" that I was driving, i had to replace the bad starter solenoid in the snow in 20 degree weather. After freezing my butt off to change it, the whole starter died a week later and I had to change the whole starter in the snow in 20 degree Cleveland, Ohio weather. Lou.
One time on the 1973 Chevelle "tank" that I was driving, i had to replace the bad starter solenoid in the snow in 20 degree weather. After freezing my butt off to change it, the whole starter died a week later and I had to change the whole starter in the snow in 20 degree Cleveland, Ohio weather. Lou.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
ok, there are 2 windings in that sol. both wires start at the S terminal. one attaches to sol body for ground. the other to the bottom big stud where hot goes to starter motor. if both windings are intact and attached to the S stud, you can re-use the solenoid. it is difficult to fix and reattach to a new S terminal. has to be a crimp. you solder, and it will un-solder itself. if you need a new solenoid, it may be best to get a whole starter and change the hammer that goes inside the solenoid. the newer ones are a diff size and either won't fit or more likeley be too small and the magnetic force won't pull it down at all. then replace the brushes and armature from the new starter to your orig one. (unless not orig. then just put the starter in.)
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,236
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
Thanks for all the input. I figured out, once I got into it. that I could replace the R terminal with the broken S terminal and it worked perfectly. While in there, I cleaned the disk, turned the studs around and everything looked in really good shape.
Apparently after 1975 and due to HEI (high energy ignition - no points), the R terminal was no longer used and the shorter screw worked fine to secure the internal brass contact. As it turned out, with starter installed...still no crank.
After a couple of beers and thinking what it could be, I concluded battery. So exchanged it with a new one...and sure enough, cranked right up. But restoring of the solenoid was a proactive fix.
Apparently after 1975 and due to HEI (high energy ignition - no points), the R terminal was no longer used and the shorter screw worked fine to secure the internal brass contact. As it turned out, with starter installed...still no crank.
After a couple of beers and thinking what it could be, I concluded battery. So exchanged it with a new one...and sure enough, cranked right up. But restoring of the solenoid was a proactive fix.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Belatedly, I concur with you repairing the original solenoid. The windings in the new replacements aren't even close to what was in the original piece. Unless something causes a major short, you should be able to rebuild that solenoid forever. (Well, almost....)
