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I posted in tech and i'll try here also, My car was running and suddenly died, I have power to the engine bay and checked the fuseable links and grounds and they are ok. alternator, starter both have power but nothing else gets power, lights, ignition switch radio, everything is dead and I can't figure how the power gets to the ignition and lights, I have a diagram but can't figure it out, any tips or suggestions would be appreciated
Here's the response, I just posted on another electrical thread below
My 0.02 worth. If you're gonna start messing with electrical problems on a C3 in a serious way, you need to arm yourself with the knowledge, documentation and tools to find and fix your problem. Otherwise, you're better off, taking it to a professional, because these things can get complicated (I'm an ex-Electronics Technician).
First, you should have the GM Service Manual, then I highly recommend the laminated color, wire diagram from any number of sources. It's big, it's sturdy and all the wires are in the same color as the car.
Finally, I highly recommend having a tool called the Power Probe. The Power Probe III is an amazing tool, that can put power (or ground) to any part of the vehicle, it will tell you instantly, whether there is a circuit or not (touch the connection and the green light goes on automatically, to tell you, that yes, there's a complete circuit). And with the Power Probe, you just keep going back from the tail lights for example, until you find where the power was interrupted. With the Power Probe, you can apply 12v with the rocker switch to the tail light wires anywhere in the circuit and watch them come on (or not). I would't touch a car's electrical system, without it. At $100 or so, it's not that expensive, versus the hours you spend, bumping your car with your fist and visually examining it (and getting no where), because your personal time is worth something and this will save you a lot of time!
I posted in tech and i'll try here also, My car was running and suddenly died, I have power to the engine bay and checked the fuseable links and grounds and they are ok. alternator, starter both have power but nothing else gets power, lights, ignition switch radio, everything is dead and I can't figure how the power gets to the ignition and lights, I have a diagram but can't figure it out, any tips or suggestions would be appreciated
OK...help is on the way...BUT...what I have some concerns.
IF you have the ability to VERIFY that the fusible links are ALL GOOD. Then...using a wiring diagram is nothing more than a 'road map'.
When looking at your wiring diagram....FINE where the POSITIVE BATTERY cable attaches to the starter solenoid. FROM THERE...EVERY wire that comes off the terminal at the starter solenoid is BATTERY POWER. SO...this is where the 'road map' comes into play....because....from THAT POINT....the wiring goes to your fuse panel and the ignition switch on the interior....AND may split off and go to other areas. BUT...without a DOUBT....it eventually makes sit to the interior.
I BET you have a blown fusible link....because the odds that the bulkhead connector came loose is highly unlikely.
AND...so you do not get confused. WHEN you are looking and following a wire on the wiring diagram....and for example it is 10 RED. That is telling your that it is a 10 gauge RED wire. AND...if when you are following this wire and all of a sudden it then says 14 ORANGE. THAT is when the wire has had a FUSIBLE LINK attached to the 10 gauge RED wire...and then the 14 gauge ORANGE fusible link them is being connected to the starter solenoid battery cable terminal stud (for example) or the power buss connection at the horn relay.
IF you need to replace a fusible like....always remember it is 4 gauge sizes SMALLER than the wire gauge you are attaching it to....and it should be replaced with the same length of fusible link that you cut out....and if my memory serves me correctly...they should NOT be longer than 6 inches long. So...as 16 gauge wire would use a 20 gauge fusible link.
Does anyone have a picture of the horn relay area? I have some wires that are not original and a couple of them were not connected even when the car was running, The voltage regulator was feeding a red wire running to the headlight switch and before the car died this was hot and now no power to it, I believe this was the wire that runs back to the starter and tees off to the bulkhead and the 2 fusable links there are good.
Does anyone have a picture of the horn relay area? I have some wires that are not original and a couple of them were not connected even when the car was running, The voltage regulator was feeding a red wire running to the headlight switch and before the car died this was hot and now no power to it, I believe this was the wire that runs back to the starter and tees off to the bulkhead and the 2 fusable links there are good.
this is a pic of ours after the new wiring harness was installed. we bought the colored wiring diagram from Doc Rebuild and it really helps to figure it out. the second pic is the breaker for the horn.
Dean
Can someone tell me where this fusible link is, I think it's the one that's no good but I can't find it on the harness It shows it comes off the bulkhead
can someone tell me where these wires go? the wire with the red arrow is coming from the terminal block and also goes to the alternator, it was taped off and not used when the car ran. the blue arrow is where the voltage regulator was connected to with a fusible link and was hot but now there is no power coming from it and I did a continuity check on it and it runs to the light switch. if I put power to it the car starts and all the lights work.
can someone tell me where these wires go? the wire with the red arrow is coming from the terminal block and also goes to the alternator, it was taped off and not used when the car ran. the blue arrow is where the voltage regulator was connected to with a fusible link and was hot but now there is no power coming from it and I did a continuity check on it and it runs to the light switch. if I put power to it the car starts and all the lights work.
there is a 20 ga orange wire off the regulator with fusible link changing to a red 10 ga wire. this wire splits off to the alternator and horn relay.
there is another 20 ga orange wire coming off the horn relay with fusible link changing to red 12 ga wire that goes to the headlamp harness connection. tied in with this terminal on the horn relay there is another fusible link starting with a 16 ga blk changing to 16 ga blk w/white stripe which also goes to the headlamp harness connection but at a different terminal.
hope this helps Dean
there is a 20 ga orange wire off the regulator with fusible link changing to a red 10 ga wire. this wire splits off to the alternator and horn relay.
there is another 20 ga orange wire coming off the horn relay with fusible link changing to red 12 ga wire that goes to the headlamp harness connection. tied in with this terminal on the horn relay there is another fusible link starting with a 16 ga blk changing to 16 ga blk w/white stripe which also goes to the headlamp harness connection but at a different terminal.
hope this helps Dean
You might need to edit/correct this post. If you are trying to give correct information...and fusible links are important. Fusible links are 4 gauge sizes smaller than the wire they are attached to. So...20 gauge fusible link will NOT got to a 10 gauge wire. It is clearly seen in post #6...where a 20 gauge orange wire it attached two a 16 gauge black wire.
The red arrow wire....hard to say due to not knowing if you have a large red wire bolted to the stud terminal on the back of the alternator.....because it does not seem long enough to make it to the buss bar connection on the horn relay.
Blue arrow wire...if the lights work when connected....and you traced it....install the correct size and length of fusible link and that one is good to go.
Thanks dub, the wire with the red arrow is the wire that runs from the buss bar to the alternator and regulator, the blue arrow wire was connected
to the voltage regulator and was hot before the car died. I am just trying to figure why it died and how that wire was hot.
Sorry, current not hot to the touch. That wire fed the voltage regulator before the car died. And the wiring diagrams don't show that wire that I can see.
1968 electrical issues
