Coil spring safety question
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 56
Likes: 8
From: Ontario, Canada
spring
I used a thread bar in place of the shock. I jacked the car up under the a-arm a bit, then tightened up the thread bar. Continued bit by bit, jack a little, tighten the thread bar. until enough to remove the ball joints. Then just reversed the procedure, slowly watching all was good. At the end the spring was not under tension and I just pulled it out.
Hope this helps,
Derrick
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,607
Likes: 7,053
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
I use a smaller link chain than the one above......this is not the easiest method, but it works if you do not have the correct spring compressor.
I run the chain over the highest coil that it will fit over/feed the chain down the inside of the coil/run it under and out the lowest coil that it will fit under.......
then I do the same with a second chain 180 degrees across from the first chain.
Next I use a long threaded rod to compress the coil spring as much as possible........then I pull the first chain tight and secure the links with a bolt and nut.......
then I do the same to the second chain......
next I release the threaded rod/the coil spring is held compressed by the two chains....and remove the compressed coil spring.
Sometimes it is necessary to remove one of the ball joints that hold the spindle in place so that the coil spring will have room to be pulled out of the a-arms.
I run the chain over the highest coil that it will fit over/feed the chain down the inside of the coil/run it under and out the lowest coil that it will fit under.......
then I do the same with a second chain 180 degrees across from the first chain.
Next I use a long threaded rod to compress the coil spring as much as possible........then I pull the first chain tight and secure the links with a bolt and nut.......
then I do the same to the second chain......
next I release the threaded rod/the coil spring is held compressed by the two chains....and remove the compressed coil spring.
Sometimes it is necessary to remove one of the ball joints that hold the spindle in place so that the coil spring will have room to be pulled out of the a-arms.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,391
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Andy,
The chain should loop through/around one coil of the spring and then around the frame.
It needs to be tight enough to control the spring if something goes wrong, but loose enough that the suspension can be completely disassembled with the chain/spring still in place.
It's really just a safety precaution, but worth the couple of minutes it takes to set up. If it gets loose you don't want the spring to hit you if it flies up, or get you on the bounce if it shoots down to the floor and comes back at you.
Regards,
Alan
The chain should loop through/around one coil of the spring and then around the frame.
It needs to be tight enough to control the spring if something goes wrong, but loose enough that the suspension can be completely disassembled with the chain/spring still in place.
It's really just a safety precaution, but worth the couple of minutes it takes to set up. If it gets loose you don't want the spring to hit you if it flies up, or get you on the bounce if it shoots down to the floor and comes back at you.
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 98
Likes: 10
Thanks alot Allan I am using your idea and I compressed spring up with long ready rod until a arm loose then split upper ball joint then ran nut up the rod and spring fell right out seemed to work great spring and a arm are on shop floor thanks everyone for the replys
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,391
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Andy,
What you described is just how it's supposed to go!
I actually have more trouble putting it back together than taking it apart.
Often I have to pull the spring back up in there pocket but then need to lift the lower a-arm straight up so the spring goes in it's pocket and then I bolt the shaft to the frame and the spindle to the a-arm.
Also, remember to check that the ends of the spring, top and bottom, are in the proper location in the frame and lower a-arm.
Regards,
Alan
You should be able to see the tip/end of the spring through the hole in the pocket.
What you described is just how it's supposed to go!
I actually have more trouble putting it back together than taking it apart.
Often I have to pull the spring back up in there pocket but then need to lift the lower a-arm straight up so the spring goes in it's pocket and then I bolt the shaft to the frame and the spindle to the a-arm.
Also, remember to check that the ends of the spring, top and bottom, are in the proper location in the frame and lower a-arm.
Regards,
Alan
You should be able to see the tip/end of the spring through the hole in the pocket.
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Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,422
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
I've tried the coil compression devices shown, and didn't like them.
To mount a coil spring on an empty frame...no engine/body weight to help, I wrap chains around a floor jack and lash it to the frame. I insert the fully expanded coil between the lower and upper control arms...note: a repro coil spring will be shorter than the factory stock spring which was very long. The repro spring although shorter will work out just fine, since it has a different commpression lbs/inch factor than the stock.
I put the lower arm of the floor jack under the lower control arm. Then I just jack the lower control arm up. The jack is of course chained to the frame so it's not going to move away. When you jack the lower control arm up, the spring will not seat correctly in the upper frame spring tower. To get the spring to seat correctly, you have to take a big hammer and give the coil a big slam..then it's seat correctly.
BTW: I really hate messing with the coil springs. My 68 set it's nose way up in the air because of the 550 lbs (?) front coil springs and the extensive use of aluminum in the engine compartment. Lowering the nose would be a iterative process of cutting the spring, checking, cutting the spring, etc. I paid Guildstrand Motorsports to do this.
To mount a coil spring on an empty frame...no engine/body weight to help, I wrap chains around a floor jack and lash it to the frame. I insert the fully expanded coil between the lower and upper control arms...note: a repro coil spring will be shorter than the factory stock spring which was very long. The repro spring although shorter will work out just fine, since it has a different commpression lbs/inch factor than the stock.
I put the lower arm of the floor jack under the lower control arm. Then I just jack the lower control arm up. The jack is of course chained to the frame so it's not going to move away. When you jack the lower control arm up, the spring will not seat correctly in the upper frame spring tower. To get the spring to seat correctly, you have to take a big hammer and give the coil a big slam..then it's seat correctly.
BTW: I really hate messing with the coil springs. My 68 set it's nose way up in the air because of the 550 lbs (?) front coil springs and the extensive use of aluminum in the engine compartment. Lowering the nose would be a iterative process of cutting the spring, checking, cutting the spring, etc. I paid Guildstrand Motorsports to do this.