Kevin68

This is step two in an interior resto and color change. Step 1 was new seats.

1) What year is this door panel?
70-76, per Alan 71


2) This is how the trim below the arm rest is currently attached. Is there a better way to do this? I need to remove to dye it. Nope, per Alan 71.



3) Will use SEM dye. Rattle can or air sprayer? If sprayer, recommendations?
Rattle can will work fine, Alan 71
4) Tracks cleaned up nicely. Is the white lithium grease from the local auto parts store the current standard? Yup, Alan 71



5) The inner window seal is currently stapled to the interior door panel...through the metal. Any suggestions to attach a new one? pop rivets? Stainless steel staples closed with pliers, Alan 71

6) I know there was originally a liner between the door and the interior panel. Recommendations for a replacement liner? Opaque plastic, Alan 71...again. Is there anything this guy doesn't know and we all trust?



7) Anybody know where I can buy a cover for the upper door hinge access? Ecklers, $30

8) The rollers look fine and most spin freely. The ones on the glass will turn easily, but they won't spin with any momentum, maybe they need a little more soaking. How do I know if the rollers need replacement? There are no flat spots.

9) The foam at the bottom of the door panel (lower center) is crushed. Suggestions for fixing? or let it go - changing color to black so it won't be very noticeable?

E.Murray

I'm watching this with interest as my doors will need most of these things, too. I'll reply with the one thing I know (mainly to bump you to the top...). I got the covers for the upper door hinge off ebay dirt cheap (used, but cleaned up great).
My car had the "deluxe" version of those panels, but (on a '68) weren't correct, so I can't help with the year.
Let's get the man some answers!

Kevin68

Thanks for the pity bump E.

minitech

While it is apart I would:

Add a layer of Dynamat to the outer door skin from the inside. This cuts down on road noise.

Then put a layer of 1/4 inch adhesive backed foam on the metal door frame under the door panel you have off.

Be sure to replace the rubber rattle preventing things that slide over the long door rods. You should have seen where the old hard ones were taking it apart.


This will result in a nice solid feel door closing with no rattles and less road noise.

Alan 71

Hi K,
It appears to be a reproduction door panel in the 70-76 style. The 68 panels were VERY different and the 69 panels quite different.
I'd use the same method (staples) to secure the tabs after you dye the panel.
SEM dye in a spray can will work well.
White lithium grease is a good choice.
For the upper seal use new ss taples through the existing holes. Set the staple with a pliers.
There was an opaque plastic vapor barrier between the door and the trim panel, they're still available.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

The original vapor barrier was vacuum formed to match the contour of the door.

Kevin68

Thank You

I guessed 74 based on the various pics I've seen over the years. I knew it wasn't a 68 door panel.

I was afraid those tabs would break...they look like pot metal. I guess the friction on the plastic holds the staples.

If I said I have a big compressor and have an unlimited tool budget, would that change your answer on the rattle can?

I get the idea on the vapor barrier, but I notice the inside of your door is painted the color of the car and the jamb is black. Mine is completely reversed. It was mostly black with red and orange overspray, so I went with all black on the part you can't see. Should the black continue to the door seal? It's not a big deal, but the red I have on the jambs it pretty beat up, so fresh paint would be an improvement.

I'm obviously not doing a beautiful stock resto like you've done, but sincerely appreciate your input.

Any thoughts on whether I should replace the rollers?

Will do...but it is a convertible with side pipes, so I'm not sure how much road noise I can avoid.


"rubber rattle preventing things that slide over the door rods"? Not following you here. I haven't found any evidence of any rubber over the door latch/lock rods. I was thinking about how to tame the rattles and had considered some sound deadening wrapped to the rods.

Only two answers needed rollers, and repair (or not) of the door panel foam.

All other thought's suggestion welcome

Thanks!!

minitech

Look at that red door picture. See the rod to the left going down from the door handle toward the bottom of the door? On that rod you will see about 2/3 the way down is a rubber boot that slides over the rod to prevent it from rattling. A new one is softer and will probably help prevent rattles better than the old one.

Rod Grommets are what they are called

See this site:

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-installation/

13: Slide the rod grommets into place. One should be installed on each upper handle rod and the door lock rod. Spraying the grommets with a spray silicone will help them slide into place. These grommets are an anti-rattler. They will keep the rods from rattling against the door frame.

SwampeastMike

Question for Alan71:

What is the "rope" adhesive you used to attach the plastic water shield to the inner door panel?

BLUE1972

I remember a friends 70 being a very light saddle that almost faded to dark cream color in spots. I have a 71 with saddle and the color is definitely a lot darker then the 70.
Does the tag in the door indicate saddle color, 418 . Is the date on the panel close to the build date.

And yes the saddle colors do not match even from the factory.