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Hello and thanks to anyone that can offer some advice.
I've got a 72 that is in pretty good shape that I'm restoring (not a frame off) but a general restoration. Actually I'm completely replacing the interior, wiring, etc.
I'm also considering putting back the original hood and wiper assembly door. Any thoughts on that or in your opinion just leave it? I'd like to take it to car shows but I know for me it's just getting out around other car guys. Will other Vette people look down on the original nature of the car?
Now to the paint. The paint is a 10 - 15 footer and it bothers me that it's not a little better quality. It's painted Leman's Blue and I'd like to have it repainted but want it to look good. It's got a few bubbles here and there and both front fenders has paint cracking. Suggestions on what you've done and what is a estimated cost I can expect to get it painted.
Nice!Paint looks great to me for a 43 yo car. I'd leave it and save the 5-10k to repaint it and put towards other things like suspension ,brake system ect. Good Luck!
Hi B,
I agree that it's a nice looking car.
I think what you do really depends on how 'stock' you want the car to look.
For me the wiper door is one of the things that set 68-72 cars off from the 73-82 cars. So I'd like to see it have the proper hood, wiper grill, and wiper door.
Regardless, I don't think many people would look down on what appears to be a nice 72.
If I were to do one thing to the car at this point I think I'd paint the side grills to match the body as was original.
Without actually seeing the car close-up I'd think you could spend $5,000 to $10,000 for a very good paint job. Only a painter who talks to you about your expectations and looks the car over closely can give you a ballpark cost. For instance he'd want to see how much paint is on the car… was this blue put over other paint or was the original paint stripped first?… things like that will affect the cost of new paint.
Regards,
Alan
If you're going to paint then I'd put on the correct hood/door. If you just want a decent driver quality paint job check with some production shops (i.e. Maaco and the like) in your area and get an estimate plus see what their completed cars look like. I've seen some nice driver jobs for around $3k plus any damage repair.
You should consider how much money you want to put into the car and what it will realistically be worth when its done and decide if its worth it to you.
Bagger...nice looking car. I am restoring a 1972 as well. I am in Columbus ms. but my shop is in Starkville. You are welcome anytime if you wish. PM me for my cell if you want to meet up some time.
It's been painted at some point in her life but after everything was removed from the interior it has faded blue on the interior. Looking at the 72 paint codes the only blue for a 72 was Bryar Blue and Targa Blue but I'm 99% it's Leman's Blue now and was new but since I don't have the paint tab I can't be sure.
I've got to keep in mind $ versus value and as they always say you'll never get back what you put in it.
Thanks again for talking with me on this one. Bagger
Will other Vette people look down on the original nature of the car?
If they do, it's their loss and a symptom of a bigger problem. Mine is mine, yours is yours, whatever you want to do is your business.
I'd even help you put curb feelers on it. I'd tease you forever about it, but I'd still help.
I never understand why in the world would any one care about some **** curmudgeons opinion about their car?
look at my recent poll over 70% of people here dig modifications,
I too love modifications but with that said the wiper door was such a cantankerous contraption they were fun to get working correctly,
I am also cheap but I am going back to the wiper door on my modded 69 because in the day many were ditched for a long hood swap out and now the wiper door seems like the mod to me, but if you like the hood and it fits well really sleep on whether YOU want a wiper door on YOUR car.
The long hood is a cleaner more refined look.
Good vette paint cost money, even a 5K paint job might have little flaws if you demand perfect 8-10K might not be unheard of,
But if you can handle little flaws lots of painters can do a vette for around 2-3K
Hi B,
If you're curious about the original color and the trim tag is missing, (Is it REALLY?), lifting the sill plates allows you to see the color under there on the fiberglass sill, and also allows you to look under the carpet a bit on the underbody for original exterior over spray.
I really like the LeMans Blue, but the Bryar Blue is a very good color too.
Regards,
Alan
Painting your car is going to be 5k and up. It all depends on how much prep the painter will have to do. If there are multiple coats on the car the old paint may have to be removed. Believe it or not the painting part is the easy (and fun) part. It's the prep that costs the cash.
I had mine soda blasted and it took off everything. The only problem was the painter did not cover the car well after taking it to the soda blaster. I had soda residue in the dash and various areas of the car, which I still find four years later.
Paint was great, but the painter knew very little about fiberglass repair, in which I wanted all the stress cracks around the head lights and other areas fixed. He did a crappy job of this and now they are coming back. A great plaint job in which I was quoted $8,000 and once everything was disassembled the price went to $10,000. And he wanted a pay check just about every week. This was done at Main Street Paint and Body in Randolph Texas. So just beware and check the paint shop over carefully.
I did, and the paint jobs were great on metal body cars, but then finding out he knew little or nothing about fiberglass.
I had mine soda blasted and it took off everything. The only problem was the painter did not cover the car well after taking it to the soda blaster. I had soda residue in the dash and various areas of the car, which I still find four years later.
Paint was great, but the painter knew very little about fiberglass repair, in which I wanted all the stress cracks around the head lights and other areas fixed. He did a crappy job of this and now they are coming back. A great plaint job in which I was quoted $8,000 and once everything was disassembled the price went to $10,000. And he wanted a pay check just about every week. This was done at Main Street Paint and Body in Randolph Texas. So just beware and check the paint shop over carefully.
I did, and the paint jobs were great on metal body cars, but then finding out he knew little or nothing about fiberglass.
Sadly this is all too common and of course it's always the car and or customers fault according to the shop, I didnt get into the detailed nightmare of my chassis swap in my build thread that after being refused to even see my car for weeks it took legal threats to get it back, unfinished and damaged.
First and foremost, do not worry/concern yourself with other peoples opinions! They can and should create a car of their own dreams, instead of attempting to dictate to you their belief of what a Corvette should be.
I've had some very nice cars in the past, to the point I was constantly concerned about where I parked, or just driving it, I've also had many that would be considered driver quality.
My cars I've enjoyed the most are the ones I can drive and enjoy without concerns about bugs, chips, and general wear and tear.
Your car looks good, be proud of it, as it is worthy.
After reading the painting posts, I'm going to do a complete buff out with clay, light rubbing compound, polish, and then wax. All I ever wanted is a driver quality Vette, and I don't need the worries of a 10k+ paint job. Not that I could afford one anyway.
After reading the painting posts, I'm going to do a complete buff out with clay, light rubbing compound, polish, and then wax. All I ever wanted is a driver quality Vette, and I don't need the worries of a 10k+ paint job. Not that I could afford one anyway.
in 89 I had 8 plus K worth of paint on my wide body made me scared to drive it, took the fun out of the car, I know I am radical but that's why I run black primer and I can get a pro paint job for the costs of the materials....I pass.
in 89 I had 8 plus K worth of paint on my wide body made me scared to drive it, took the fun out of the car, I know I am radical but that's why I run black primer and I can get a pro paint job for the costs of the materials....I pass.
Ill see how it looks when I'm done, but I'm with you, I want to drive it, beat it, pull its hair, and make it call me Daddy!
Don't overlook the fact that after you paint, it often puts the car in a place where you start comparing that new paint to that old windshield... or that faded dash... ooops those door panels... and all the chrome and trim and rubber and.... you get the picture.
Isn't that the true Mike...I think I've decided to not worry about the paint or the hood and focus on the fact I have a good driver and once the interior is complete it'll be a great ride.
Another Question for everyone. Some numb nuts removed all the AC parts and in Alabama I'd like a little bit of AC in the summer even with the T-tops off. Anyone had any luck with the after market stuff?
Note: I'm Dynomat'ing the !@#$ out of it now to cut down on the heat in the cab so I'm hoping that helps but if I can get AC back in it for $1300 or so I think I will. Thoughts? Bagger