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Freeze Plug Replacement

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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 07:39 PM
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Default Freeze Plug Replacement

I believe the freeze plug above the starter on my 1974 L48 is leaking intermittently. Must the engine be removed to replace this freeze plug? The engine was rebuilt about 5K miles ago in 1985. Would you recommend replacement of all the freeze plugs, which I am sure would require the removal of the engine? Any idea of the labor cost to replace just the one freeze plug and the labor cost to replace all of the freeze plugs? Thanks!
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 10:31 PM
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If the plug is in fact leaking, I would remove it and examine it closely. It should reveal the reason for its leaking as well as the condition of the water jacket. If the plug has rusted from the inside and particularly if you discover lots of rusty goop behind the plug it's probably a safe assumption the other freeze plugs are in jeopardy. Especially so for those in the rear of the block.

Good luck... GUSTO
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 11:08 PM
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I have in the past, just replaced 1 leaking plug and not had problems with the others. Be sure to run the correct mix of antifreeze to stop future corrosion. Sometimes you get 1 with a thin spot or whatever.
You shouldn't have to remove the engine to replace it.
Make sure your shop actually removes it and not just punches it inside the water jacket. They can be a bear to remove sometimes.
Edit--I just read your original post. 5k miles in 30 yrs? It may be best to replace them all, especially if you plan to keep the car for another 30 yrs and can afford $200-$300, but you need to put more miles on the car to keep the fluids circulating and the seals wet.
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Sayfoo
I have in the past, just replaced 1 leaking plug and not had problems with the others. Be sure to run the correct mix of antifreeze to stop future corrosion. Sometimes you get 1 with a thin spot or whatever.
You shouldn't have to remove the engine to replace it.
Make sure your shop actually removes it and not just punches it inside the water jacket. They can be a bear to remove sometimes.
Edit--I just read your original post. 5k miles in 30 yrs? It may be best to replace them all, especially if you plan to keep the car for another 30 yrs and can afford $200-$300, but you need to put more miles on the car to keep the fluids circulating and the seals wet.
Thanks for your ideas. Since I was having such a hard time putting miles on the car, I gave it to my son. Problem solved on the miles issue! I'll talk to some local garages to obtain some estimates and ideas. Thanks again for your suggestions.
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 12:51 PM
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Some people have more disposable cash than me,

I dropped a 327 that had been sitting about 20 years in my modded 66 vette and it ran like a champ but from sitting one freeze plug had a rust spot that leaked, getting it out while the engine was in the car was a bear but no way to get the new one hammered in,

I wasn't going to give up and the parts store said we offer these rubber freeze plugs that you tighten a bolt and they get tight in the hole,
I almost laughed, I thought what a hack job POS,

I grabbed one and installed it and the car went on to be a sound daily driver, no other plug leaked even though in this case the leaking plug had rusted from neglect of sitting,
The rubber plug lasted until I sold the engine which was years of 1000's of miles, that cat used it in a mud jeep.

I am guessing the local tech would love to cha ching on this job, or you can fix it in no time for less than 10 bucks.
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 07:00 PM
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Default Freeze Plug Replacement

I had the same freeze plug replaced on my '69 350/300 engine in Feb 2015. It was done by a local Corvette Shop for about $275.This included pulling the rusted plug out, putting a new brass plug in, draining/flushing the engine, and replacing the coolant (50/50 w/distilled water). The shop had no issues getting the old plug out which can cause the labor to go up (See this CF thread about how much of an adventure this can turn into:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...eeze-plug.html). This shop warned me that getting the plug out could push the cost up. As it turned out in my case, flushing the radiator & replacing the coolant was the bigger part of the bill. As my engine was rebuilt by a previous owner about 25,000 miles ago, the other freeze plugs appeared to be in good shape and weren't changed. The engine didn't have to be pulled to do this. My engine has headers/side pipes so it was relatively a clear access to the rusted freeze plug after the starter was pulled. In addition to replacing the rusted freeze plug with a brass one ($3-5), a sealant should be used on the new plug when installed.
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 69CRUZR
In addition to replacing the rusted freeze plug with a brass one ($3-5), a sealant should be used on the new plug when installed.
The most correct repair.
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