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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 05:47 PM
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Default Body mount bolt-rusty

This has got to common ! I bought a 70 coupe with a rusty frame, it's going to be a race car so the body has to come off. The body mount bolt in front of the rear wheel of course is rusty. American socket spins, metric socket finished taking the corners off. So now I have to cut it ?? I'd love to just stick the torches in there but know I shouldn't. I tried a die grinder but it's in a weird position. Any Ideas ???
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Pop Chevy
This has got to common ! I bought a 70 coupe with a rusty frame, it's going to be a race car so the body has to come off. The body mount bolt in front of the rear wheel of course is rusty. American socket spins, metric socket finished taking the corners off. So now I have to cut it ?? I'd love to just stick the torches in there but know I shouldn't. I tried a die grinder but it's in a weird position. Any Ideas ???
My 69 had some frame rust and it was cheaper and faster to buy a bargain donor chassis, when I considered doing the swap myself ( first time in many years ) I researched it and I saw many guys some tops in the corvette world will use a torch on some body mount bolts then the next cat will say good God do not torch it, my conclusion, is people even in the corvette business do whatever they feel they have to to make it happen some disagree with how the other guys does it but in the end they all get it apart the way that works for them.

In my case I paid to have the job done this time and the tech got lucky all the bolts came right apart....but the #3 bird cage mount was rusted out, I scored a part from Willcox and the tech welded it in....
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 06:05 PM
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Is the bolt spinning or is it just stripped off. If it is spinning it means the nut inside of the nut cage is spinning and no matter how much you turn it, it will not come loose. You will have to grind away the bolt head with a die grinder so you can jack up the body and remove the rest of the bolt from the cage nut. If you can't move the bolt you can try to soak it repeatedly with a rust penetrant over several days and use a stripped bolt head extractor. The extractors bite into stripped bolt heads so you can turn them.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Pop Chevy
This has got to common ! I bought a 70 coupe with a rusty frame, it's going to be a race car so the body has to come off. The body mount bolt in front of the rear wheel of course is rusty. American socket spins, metric socket finished taking the corners off. So now I have to cut it ?? I'd love to just stick the torches in there but know I shouldn't. I tried a die grinder but it's in a weird position. Any Ideas ???
Dremmel with a cut off wheel. I purchase the 3' extension cable which allows for the wheel to fit into the pocket while the Dremmel stays on the floor.
ZIO
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 06:08 PM
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i cut a hack saw blade in half and used my hand and fingers sawing the bolt.. after about 10,000 strokes, i got thru.. that was a long friday night.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 06:18 PM
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I had to drill all eight bolts out with special carbide drills. I was changing my bad frame, though. Lou.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 06:32 PM
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Bolt head extractor ? Didn't think of that one. The bolt is still tight. I do have one of the rear ones spinning in the cage even after heating it with a torch. I'll cut it with the smoke wrench, but the ones in the pocket, I don't think so. I like the cutoff wheel idea also.
I can't see how you would get a saw blade in there or I would use the sawzall. All good ideas, Any more ??

Oh yea, I did soak it for a couple days.

Last edited by Pop Chevy; Oct 28, 2015 at 06:34 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 06:56 PM
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Is the rubber part of the bushing still intact. It is very hard to get the penetrating fluid down into the cage where it needs to work on the nut. You might try to cut away the rubber part of the bushing so that you can get the can straw down into the frame cage and soak it. I used a small dremmel tool cut off wheel as rvzio suggested and was able to cut away the bolt head on the #2 and #3 mounts. If the #4 mount bolt is spinning then the cage inside of the rear cargo area had broken free of the fiberglass and will need to be cut away.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 07:07 PM
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If you want to use a torch, you can put a 1-1/2"or 2"diameter pipe over the head of the bolt and direct the flame through the pipe. The pipe will keep the flame from damaging the surrounding area.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 07:07 PM
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Do yourself a favor and take the cut-off wheel to the head and cut it off. Simple as that. I have done so many that way I do not waste my time doing anything else if the bolt will not turn.

DUB
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 10:18 AM
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Die grinder with a cutoff wheel . Awkward position, only took about 10 mins, worked great ! Thanks DUB !
I had to cut the no. 4, it was spinning in the cage. I hope it's not too bad to fix. That thing is buried in the back!
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Pop Chevy
Die grinder with a cutoff wheel . Awkward position, only took about 10 mins, worked great ! Thanks DUB !
I had to cut the no. 4, it was spinning in the cage. I hope it's not too bad to fix. That thing is buried in the back!
It is a tough one to fix especially if you have to rivet the cage back. If you don't need originality you can use SS screws.
ZIO
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 01:28 PM
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I used a fresh Dremel cut off disk, with the Dremel 90-degree adapter. Worked extremely well and only took a few minutes.
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Pop Chevy
Die grinder with a cutoff wheel . Awkward position, only took about 10 mins, worked great ! Thanks DUB !
I had to cut the no. 4, it was spinning in the cage. I hope it's not too bad to fix. That thing is buried in the back!
A lot depends on how much you are trying to put this car back to PERFECT FACTORY standards.

IF you do NOT care about this #4 caged nut being EXACTLY LIKE what GM designed....the repair is QUITE SIMPLE.

IF you want it JUST LIKE what GM designed....get ready for the PARTY!!!!...because it is VERY INVOLVED to put it back just like GM designed it. I have done MANY and I do not BUTCHER up the car in the process.

Let us know what you thoughts are on this (if you care to...obviously)......and ...keep this in mind. The ONLY reason this #4 mount has a caged nut is for ease of assembly....that's it.....it has nothing to do with any more structural strength.

DUB
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 11:01 AM
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DUB at the expense of hijacking the OPs thread, can you give us a run down on the process for anyone not concerned with originality? Unfortunately Im staring down the barrel of this tedious project over the winter.

Thanks - Greg
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30
DUB at the expense of hijacking the OPs thread, can you give us a run down on the process for anyone not concerned with originality? Unfortunately Im staring down the barrel of this tedious project over the winter.

Thanks - Greg
Greg,
No problem at all.
I sent you a PM so you can call me so I do not have to type it all out.

DUB
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 07:34 PM
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I'm not an original kinda guy. This is a ratty 70 coupe even though its a LS-5 car with AC , it's gonna become a race car. Nut and bolt works for me. I guess you have to get in there and cut the cage away ?
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 10:28 AM
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I shaped a piece of aluminum flat stock, about 3/8" thick and sanded the lower half with rounded edges to match the #4 well. I drilled a hole in the center and used a thick piece of rubber to place between the aluminum plate and the fiberglass to cushion and spread out the pressure. Then use a bolt, flat washer, lock washer and nut to hold it. Lou.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Pop Chevy
I'm not an original kinda guy. This is a ratty 70 coupe even though its a LS-5 car with AC , it's gonna become a race car. Nut and bolt works for me. I guess you have to get in there and cut the cage away ?
Usually the cage will come off if you drive the bolt up into the car....especially if you go inside the car first and look to see how bad it is. In most cases...that I have seen...the caging is ready to darn near come off due to rust and age anyway.

DUB
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