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My budget was quite low, but I had dim lights, so I switched to off the shelf halogens. This created a new problem as the switch couldn't handle the new load. I installed two relays and made my on wiring harness from 10 and 12 wire. They are now very bright and they stay on.
Interested in learning more, did you run the heavy wires to the switch Thanks
No, I kept the original wire from the switch to the dimmer switch and used #14 wire from dimmer to the two relays. I used #10 from the alt to the relay power in and #12 from the alt to relays and lights for ground. Then I used #12 from each relay to the headlights for high and low. I soldered every connection, used heat shrink and new ceramic plugs. It really did make a difference and the lights will now stay on.
No need for that- as you will just use the wire from the headlight switch to trigger the relays- the relays pull less than a 1/4A.
Here's a diagram-
fuse for the battery- I used 12gu from relays to lights- 10gu from relay to my terminal- 12V. I used blue and white wires -as that seems to be the standard now.
No need for that- as you will just use the wire from the headlight switch to trigger the relays- the relays pull less than a 1/4A.
Here's a diagram-
fuse for the battery- I used 12gu from relays to lights- 10gu from relay to my terminal- 12V. I used blue and white wires -as that seems to be the standard now.
Richard
"10 gauge from relay to my terminal - 12v"? Was this back to the battery?
G'day, my '74 coupe has a headlight problem. If I'm driving in the country and deploy high beam, then very shortly the lights flash off and on. I believe that there is a circuit breaker inbuilt in the headlight switch that causes this. Once I drop to low beam, the lights stay on, but the headlight switch is very hot when or just after high beam is on. I plan to add the relays on the inner fender near the alternator, but just want to know what amp rating I should use. I think I read somewhere that a 20 amp relay is the one, but want the experts to tell me the correct figure.
"10 gauge from relay to my terminal - 12v"? Was this back to the battery?
Well- sort of-
I'm running extra horns/electric fans/electric headlight motors as well- so I have mounted a post terminal w/ 4 gauge bask to the battery-then 10gu to the relays
here's the relays- the black sort things that look like fuses- they are from Ford- diodes that fit a fuse slot- used that for triggering/isolating the headlight motors
I'm running Bosch 30A- now owned by Tyco- spend the extra $5/ea and don't use the Chinese ones-
I'm running extra horns/electric fans/electric headlight motors as well- so I have mounted a post terminal w/ 4 gauge bask to the battery-then 10gu to the relays
here's the relays- the black sort things that look like fuses- they are from Ford- diodes that fit a fuse slot- used that for triggering/isolating the headlight motors
I'm running Bosch 30A- now owned by Tyco- spend the extra $5/ea and don't use the Chinese ones-
Richard, how did your route the 4 gauge wire back to the battery? I've been thinking I need to add something similar to run my fans and now headlight motors so I'm not pulling it direct off the alternator. Thanks
Richard, how did your route the 4 gauge wire back to the battery? I've been thinking I need to add something similar to run my fans and now headlight motors so I'm not pulling it direct off the alternator. Thanks
I ran the 4gu to the starter and 1/0 gu from the starter to the batteries. Also used a jumper cable set-up, a positive terminal mounted on the wheel well- JUST in case- the car can easily be jumped off. Saw a "Fast and Loud" episode where they had to climb under the truck (supposedly $100K vehicle) at the Barret Jackson Auction to jump start it-Really?
Ran a 1/0 gu directly from the alternator to the batteries- plus a 6gu to power all the accessories in the car-
Starter wire on the left- alt wire on the right-
Terminal post inside the dash.
I normally answer these requests on headlites.....little reluctant only a few on the forum has actually used them.....probably over some heads or too bright
.
Last edited by Ironcross; Dec 7, 2015 at 11:46 PM.
Had to replace a headlamp this morning (burned out last night), so I had to drive around a bit to find a replacement, so not much of a selection in a pinch. Was hoping for a brighter lamp, but the Philips halogen looks about the same as the dim ones I was replacing.
Any suggestions for brighter, whiter bulbs that'll be a direct drop-in replacement?
Here are my E-code Hellas with new LED bulbs. Amazingly huge difference.
Hello Al, can you provide the part number for the Ballast / 3-Prong Plug end that you used to connect the Razir LED Headlight Kit (You used the H4 Razir Kit - Correct??) I did not see it in the thread. Did the E-Code Hellas you used fit in the bucket without any modification? Was any mounting for the Ballast / 3-Prong Plug End needed or is it small / light enough to be installed without any mounting?
Hello Al, can you provide the part number for the Ballast / 3-Prong Plug end that you used to connect the Razir LED Headlight Kit (You used the H4 Razir Kit - Correct??) I did not see it in the thread. Did the E-Code Hellas you used fit in the bucket without any modification? Was any mounting for the Ballast / 3-Prong Plug End needed or is it small / light enough to be installed without any mounting?
Yes I did use the H4 Razir LED kit. I can get the # for you later today as I'm at work right now. The Hellas fit in the buckets with no mods and the LED fan fit through the hole. As far as a ballast I mounted it under the headlight lid with defrost tape. Your factory harness plug plugs right in.
Seems like someone could put together a mostly plug and play kit much cheaper than the harness from speeddirect. 250$ for a harness just seems like a lot of money for some relays and wire. I'm no wiring genius but I can follow directions if I simply had the parts
What options are y'all using for accessory fuse relay blocks? Advisable to pull power at starter+ or alternator to feed accessory block or go straight to battery?
DSCN5170 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5169 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5160 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5161 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5177 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5181 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5182 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
