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"Now, the absolute best way to fix the problem is to route wires and relays straight to the headlights. There are three things I don't like about this: one, it costs a lot, two, it is often overkill, and three, it is hard to maintain a stock look. The addition of this kit allows you to pull the headlight voltage from an alternate source (such as our Accessory Fuse Panel), distributing the total electrical load over more wires. This kit is a direct plug-in to your floor mounted High/Low beam selector switch and allows the battery voltage to bypass the factory wiring to the stock fuse box, the 40+ year old corroded fuse box, and the worn-out headlight switch. This will almost certainly brighten your headlights to a much more reasonable level."
The Speed Direct is a good one- I made my own-
Bought really nice ceramic plugs-large gauge wire- Copper wire not "CCA" which is Copper Coated Aluminum and is equal to one gauge LESS than the Copper as far as conductivity.
They are not all created equal- one on the right has much thicker gauge metal for the terminals-
I have the Hella low beams and just bought the LED headlight kit and holy crap simple install low voltage and lights the road like no tomorrow.
Hey Al-
What lights did you go with?
My original plan was to go w/ LED- but the prices and technology just wasn't there yet when I pulled the trigger on the current set up. It was over $800 last year for 4 lights!!!
My thoughts were to eventually just swap out the bulbs- really easy w/ my current housings.
Checked out what's out there and they look to be getting reasonable.
I just recently have been replacing the ones in my house-w/ LED as they have become reasonable and with the new "soft light" ones you can't tell the difference from incandescent.
My original plan was to go w/ LED- but the prices and technology just wasn't there yet when I pulled the trigger on the current set up. It was over $800 last year for 4 lights!!!
My thoughts were to eventually just swap out the bulbs- really easy w/ my current housings.
Checked out what's out there and they look to be getting reasonable.
I just recently have been replacing the ones in my house-w/ LED as they have become reasonable and with the new "soft light" ones you can't tell the difference from incandescent.
Richard
Hi Richard,
I went with a company called HID Extra, watched and read a lot of reviews before choosing. They look to be built of high quality materials. Paid $119 for the LEDs and already had the Hellas sitting in the cabinet.
I went with a company called HID Extra, watched and read a lot of reviews before choosing. They look to be built of high quality materials. Paid $119 for the LEDs and already had the Hellas sitting in the cabinet.[/URL]
Beside replacing the headlights,is this LED setup a direct plug and play for the C3 wiring?
My budget was quite low, but I had dim lights, so I switched to off the shelf halogens. This created a new problem as the switch couldn't handle the new load. I installed two relays and made my on wiring harness from 10 and 12 wire. They are now very bright and they stay on.
Last edited by oledave60; Nov 14, 2015 at 05:46 PM.
Yup. That kit will do it. If your battery shows 12 volts, thats what your lights will get. Or for a fraction of the cost, you can use your headlight switch (at the existing headlight high/low beam plug to power a relay/harness and build the same thing. I bought 4 ceramic plugs and play 3 pin connectors for the headlights as a brighter light has to shed more heat, and upgraded lighting can distort or melt 40 year old plastic at the headlight plug.
Either way, it's going to a noticeable improvement in lighting output whether you keep the existing lights or upgrade them.
When I first upgraded my lighting, the headlights switch couldn't handle the voltage requirements (amerage) of the new lights, and on high beam they would cut cut out randomly. After the harness and relay upgrade, works without a hitch.
If you choose to build your own for about 20 bucks, get a relay and pigtail from your local auto parts house, just realize the relay that comes with it is junk. So are the leads leading out of the NO/NC contact part of the pigtail. These are the ones that carry the headlight load. 8 and 10 gauge wiring is what I used for the project. You can remove the pins from the 3 pin plug and upgrade the wiring, then snag a handful of Bosch relays on a few late model salvage cars and your good to go.
Thanks for the reply. I know that the heat sinks for the LED lights get hot, but since they are not in the engine compartment, I am assuming they won't overheat? Also, do you have a part number for that 3 prong plug end (kit shown) for the plug and play?
Thanks for the reply. I know that the heat sinks for the LED lights get hot, but since they are not in the engine compartment, I am assuming they won't overheat? Also, do you have a part number for that 3 prong plug end (kit shown) for the plug and play?
Let me get that for you tomorrow, headed off to bed. If you look at the back of the LED housing there is a small cooling fan in there to disperse the heat. Pretty neat setup and the light output is amazing!
The kit comes with everything and the quality looks like its there. But, are these upgraded halogens or HIDs?
They don't say on the website, but I would give them a call to be sure.
My intuition says that the bulbs included with the kit are HID and the bulbs sold separately are halogen because the price of the kit is more that the price of the individual parts
Yes it will, Rescue Rogers. Our NeverNight kit with the Xenon lights may require some clearancing in the headlight bucket but that will depend on your car. They are significantly brighter than even the halogens. You can also just go with the harness and you will still see a big difference. It is a plug and go design, no need to rewire connectors. NeverNight headlight harness and Xenon lamps
Forum members get a 10% discount on their orders. Also, this product was actually designed by a forum member. We bought that design from him and have been producing and selling it.
DSCN4931 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN4927 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5170 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5143 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5160 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5151 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5154 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5157 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
Also, this product was actually designed by a forum member. We bought that design from him and have been producing and selling it.