I bought the car 4 years ago and at the time it seemed like a perfect project for someone handy like me. I had already restored a number of antique mahogany boats and needed a change, it turns out cars are not like boats! Who knew?
It started life as a side pipe big block car. It became mine as a Bubified car with a '75 front clip, no exhaust, daytona headlights (no pop ups or any hardware), blue velour upholstery and some worn out carpet covering an exploded trans tunnel that had been reworked with old soup cans and pop rivets. No where to go but up, right?



How it looks today
After removing the '75 front clip (still have it if anyone wants it) I discovered, surprise surprise, rust on both frame and birdcage. Since the floor/tunnel was a right off, I decided to replace with a donor firewall/floorpan off of a '74. I was told the only difference between 69 and 74 was the seat belt mounts and that seems to be the case.
So the rusty frame got some new channels ands repairs and the birdcage got fixed up also. I am fortunate to have a friend who is an artist with a welder. So now the chassis is like new with all new parts and stuff and I'm ready to put the body back on.
I found a front clip for the car (a real 69 clip) and did some repairs on it so now I'm ready to put a car back together. Nay nay. My 3 car frankenstein creation will not bend to my will no matter how hard I stare at it. In the above photo, the nose is supported by a chain hoist at what I think is the right height. The chassis is levelled fore and aft and side to side and rests on 3 jacks, 2 on the front, one under the diff. There are no shims at any of the mounts, just the aluminum pucks. I have temporarily taped new weather strip in position on the doors and have centred them as much as possible for now.
So now the problems.




Similar to RVisio's 69, the gap is huge at the top and not bad at the bottom.





The back is a bit better, but the door is no where near adjusted to the right height. The back needs to come down and the front needs to go up but there's no adjustment left in the hinges.





As with Rogers car, the passenger side is better, but not by much.





The rad support is new and bolted in with no shims and frame horns have repair pieces welded on (rusty holes got real big). This photo also shows the height that the nose is off of the frame horn with no gasket on the inner fender bottom.

I am sure that Dub and all the other helpful souls out there will need more detailed photos and such, but for a first post this is long enough and I don't know what else to show at this point. If you made it this far, thanks for your attention.
Dan

 

I feel your pain.....my '68 project has a '76 nose and tail light clip grafted onto the body!

I hope you solve the 'gap-problem' soon.....but don't get upset if it takes a few weeks to gradually align everything.

 

I think you should get the #1 crossmember in and core support and frame extensions. That will lock in the front of the clip. You can make some adjustments to the extension for some height as well as shims under the core support if needed. Lay the wiper door in the track and air cleaner and hood so you can check for clearances. Then try the clip again. You will be taking the clip on and off a few times to get it as good as you can. Then you can go to the doors. You will also need body shims under the body mounts. You may want to try #1= 0 # 2=2 #3= 3 #4=4. That might also help your doors but I don't think you are ready to align the doors just yet. Ask me how I know. Dub I am sure will add to the list. It is a tough job. I see a lot of wood in your place. I am a retired cabinet /trim carpenter and my place also has a lot of wood. Anyway there are more tricks for the doors but getting the clip right is first. Also need to see how your wiper door trim and eyebrow trim all line up before you glue the clip. Take your time, you can do it! Ask questions like you are and we all will help.
ZIO

 

Good eye, yep I'm a semi retired cabinet/ furniture maker.
I forgot to mention in my first post that I didn't get the wiper door or any other stuff for up there so I'm going with a long L88 style hood. I should also mention at this point that this car will be a somewhat modified version. The 468 BB was ready ahead of schedule and is already installed.
Will get the items you suggest done and get back here.
Dan

 

FOR WHAT THIS IS WORTH TO YOU:

1.) You REALLY need to get the car back on the ground and NOT on jack stands. Reason being... there is no way FOR CERTAIN that you know that the frame is how it would be when setting on the tires and suspension. Do as you wish...but I am only commenting from experience. having the car be exactly how it would be...which is on the ground and settled is when you do any and all major body panel replacements. UNLESS....you took measurements and can set the frame up exactly as it was when you measured it when it was on the ground....but...why waste the time doing that when having the tires and wheels on it and the air pressure of each tire correct.

2.) As 'rvzio' mentioned in Post#3. Having the front crossmember installed is required.

3.) Not being able to see it in the photos you posted....the narrow section of the front clip that bonds across the top of the firewall plenum is important. IF it is intact...then it is possible that a spreader bar will be needed to spread the clip apart so when you install a hood...the hood gap is correct. IF this narrow section is broken ( which can often times occur)....then it is important that you have the hood you want on hand so you can set the gap at the back of the top hood surround. That is if you are concerned with panel gaps.

4.) Hopefully when you separated the body from the frame...you kept track of how many shims went at each location. If not...then this will be a process to get the body set correctly for ride height. And depending on the frame area that were repaired and if the frame was put on a frame machine or bench and measured out and pulled...these shim counts may also change. But at least knowing what you HAD is a starting point.

5.) Knowing you did birdcage repairs...and seeing the windshield out of the car...BE AWARE...that it is highly possible that the windshield frame can lay inwards during welding and replacing the parts required to remove the rust damage. SO.....knowing that this dynamic can change due to the windshield is out....you MIGHT need to go further to check for all related parts fitting so when you go and install T-tops and setting your door glass...you ACTUALLY can do this. Once again...'speaking' from experience. NOT spending the time to VERIFY these issues (along with many others)...can come back can haunt you in the most evil way possible. DO not ask me how I KNOW this. get all done with the car and NOT be able to adjust door glass.....TRUST ME....THAT is not good.....and YES...it CAN easily happen. ( UNLESS...you took measurements and braced areas so the movement was contained).

6.) Being able to see the bonding area at the end of the front clip by the windshield would be GREAT....THIS AREA is well known for having water leak problems...and not knowing if it was correctly addressed...it might be wise to remove these panels and re-seal them and bond and pop-rivet them back in place BEFORE you bond your front clip on.

This is just for 'starters'.

DUB

 

First let me thank you for your time and effort writing this post. I know I'm not the only one you are helping this way and it must be areal time drain for you.
The 3 jack thing was something I saw in an early part of "rookies first attempt at a restoration" thread and thought it made sense. I will be happy to put the wheels back on as they are in the way where they are now.
That cross piece across the cowl top broke early in my attempts to install but I still have it for later use. I have been taking measurements across the top fender opening as I have the hood here and know what opening (roughly) is needed.
I do have a record of the shims at each mount but with the frame repairs done (both side rails replaced and new mounts) I thought it unlikely that those shim numbers would still be valid. The frame was put on a rack, levelled and tweaked and is within 3/16" tolerance.
As far as the cage, the repairs were only at the base of each post at the mount points. I hope the windshield frame and t top frame are good. the measurements I have been able to take seem to indicate all is square and true.
I'm not sure what you mean by the windmill, but the bonding strips/panels in front of the door have been removed and reinstalled to conform to the donor clip at what I hope is the correct height.
One question that has been making me hurt my brain is how do the body mount shims effect the setting of the body on a coupe if the cage is intact and strong? I can see the effect that rvisio's recommended pattern would achieve, but often (including the originals on this car) they are not "symmetrical". Is the cage being wrenched or twisted in this situation?
Just one of many things that make me go "huh?"
One more thing. As a tradesman who has had a number of apprentices over the years, I understand the need for blunt talk and the hurt feelings that sometimes result. Don't worry about that with me, nobody can see me cry over the internet.
Cheers, Dan

 

Hi Dan, I sent a PM to Dub to also take a look at you project. I see that he did, adding more to the list. The body mount shims are interesting because like for example more shims at #4 and less at #3 MIGHT close some of the rear door gap by the raising of the back. You can also Tepee the front A pillar. Like in my case I had 2 shims at #2 and 0 at #1. I t closed the door gap at the top a little. On a coupe the adjustments are not as great as a vert since we have the center T support across the top. I am sure Dub will expand on this.
ZIO

 

Glad to be of some assistance.

NO harm...no foul. Now you know...and that is all that matters.

That broken piece is not big deal...the main thing is that you have it...but taking care when installing and removing the clip during the SEVERAL attempts to get things set is to your benefit.

The shims are going to be what they are due to body mounts being serviced. That is where the assembly manual and measuring it out will be helpful.


SPELLCHECK got me..I corrected it to read 'windshield'.

Not meaning to be critical...but not being able to see what you had and why that route was taken....it may be OK and then again it may not...hard to say.

Due to the process in the ear your car was made...GM did not spend all the time to make sure every body mount on the frame was PRECISELY welded to the from in from of it on the line and the one after...NOT like today when computers and optical sensors can tell when something is off 2mm.

These shims are used to make sure the body clearance form the frame is where it needs to be...so moving parts do not scrub...and the bumper brackets are WITHIN the design tolerances GM made so they can be bolted in place.. SO going CRAZY with shims and raising the body and work for some issues...but case problems when you go to install parts and check to make sure your shims are good.

SO...if the shims are not installed correctly so when the body is set down on the mounts...especially mounts #1,#2 and #3... There is a possibility to 'Tee-Pee' the rocker channel of pull down #2 body mount. By doing this ..and the windshield being out...there is a slight chance of movement in the outer corner of the windshield frame...because with even all the parts being attached to the birdcage...it still can have movement in it.

SO...from #1 body mount to #3 body mount...if you ran a string across these mounts...are they all level to the string??? Or if you wan to use a laser...you can do that also. Because if #2 body mount perch on the left side is lower in relation to #1 and #3...then logic would tell you that you need shims to bring that flat surface to level...and then STILL deal with ride height of the body also.


Many more of 'those' are sure to come.

I KNOW I am somewhat direct. And just so you understand...when I type out words in CAPITOL letters print is not because I am yelling at you....it is a way that I type to show importance....and if I type in CAPITOL letter and then BOLD them out...it is showing even more importance....and then if the font size increases...well I think you get the idea.

DUB

 

Damn good post. Thanks!

 

I feel your Frankenvette pain.

The above car is registered as a 72. No $hit, legally registered and carries a 72 VIN tag.
The Frame, suspension and drivetrain are all 1972.
The body and interior are 1981 or 1982
Paint is a custom affair done by the PO, and even a top paint tech at a Chevy dealership wasnt able to match the pearlescent clear coat perfectly.

2 years ago I was working a trade, the guy took one look at the car and said 'wait, its a 72, with a 82 body??....Im not interested in that nightmare' and walked off.

Keep at your project. Drive it hard and fast. Break stuff. Keep the rubber side down. Have fun.

 

Nice Vette !

 

Well heck...I'm going down the same road...'69 with '73 Front Clip! Very encouraging to find this thread and see other's success in bringing back their FrankenVette!!!

1969 Corvette Stingray Convertible: 383 Stroker (400 hp) w/Weber 4 BBL Carb, Isky Cam, Hooker Competition Headers/Mufflers, Rebuilt Muncie M21 4 Speed, Luk Clutch, Rebuilt Differential, etc. from 08/25/19-09/04/19 FrankenVette has received the following...Wix Air Filter, Royal Purple 10W30 Synthetic Oil Change w/Wix Oil Filter, Valve Cover Gaskets, Clear Fuel Filters (under hood & between electric fuel pump/gas tank), Radiator Block/Heater Core Coolant Flush & Refill, Thermostat, AC Delco Spark Plugs with Accel Wires, Timing/Idle Adjustment, Drain/Refill Rear Differential Fluid (Synthetic), Front Tie Rod Ends/Sleeves, Front Sway Bar Links, 255/60R/15 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 Rear Tires. Front end alignment tomorrow then new front tires and, over the next week or two, adjusting the rear leaf spring to properly level the rear end of the vehicle.

Best of all...it's now registered as a Collector Vehicle so NO EMMISSIONS TEST REQUIRED and it's good for 5 years before it requires renewal.

So much more to do.

 

Since you found the thread I may as well give you an update: My '68 covertible now has a restored soft top.....a correct tail light clip.....all the gaps are now repaired and even.....the car is at the paint shop (minus the chopped up front clip) which I am converting back to a '68 clip as we speak..........

WHEW!

 

Did you close the door gaps by alignment, or did you have to add material?
My gaps are un-alignable...

/Johan

 

mostly by adding material. I have since handed the car over to a professional to finish the bodywork and paint. I asked him to take his time as I have been sidetracked by building a new house and have no space or time to work on it.

 

That's a project beyond my capabilities. Good luck!