I just found this about an hour and a half away.
https://victoriatx.craigslist.org/cto/5343807097.html

Is there anything that sets off any bells. I think 20k is too high but I really don't know.

 

I just noticed.. The console data plate is from a 1970 390HP BB car.

 

You're right, the console plate is from a 70 instead of 72, so I would ask for a pic of the VIN.

They didn't include any pictures of the frame or underneath the car, there might be quite a bit of rust.

I don't know if this matters to you, but that doesn't look like an original radio (it's a Custom Autosound radio I believe), and I don't know what the gauge under the passengers dash panel is for.

Edit: Also, those tires look smaller than ususal

 

That engine is a long way from stock. Living in Texas, you might also want to stick with AC cars. I hear it gets warm down there.

 

Haggerty price guide has 15 k for a code 4 72 454 coupe. Code 3 is 24k. This car might be a code 3 car, but, I'm not convinced that is an original engine to that car. If you look at it, focus on rust issues as stated above, and if that is an original engine. If it passes the test, then 20k is a very realistic price.

 

Looks like mine except for the BB...You could always add Vintage Air....They do get hot and I hear a BB is even hotter than a SB.

The left head light seems to out of align, but so are most at this price point.

Brian

 

What is code 3 and code 4 and how do I determine which?

 

Carb is a duel inlet. Find out what the exact specs on the engine are. It might be a temperamental monster.

 

I saw that too and they used rubber instead of making real fuel lines. What other corners did they cut?

Also I tend to look at 700 miles on a new motor as an issue because they have something they can't get worked out.

Over all though for a BBC it doesn't look too bad.

 

If it's only 1 1/2 hours away I would make the drive and check it out. Probably will sell for less. As has been stated there isn't much sock about that motor so check the numbers on the block and pad. Let us know how it comes out.

 

The pictures are of poor quality and taken on a rainy day.
I just could not see how the paint or fit is. Some things stick out like the headlights and hood fit, the wiper door is up. No pictures of the frame and the engine is cosmetically modified, and on a hot running Vetter there should be no rubber fuel lines....
Its a 12K car if it runs and has no rust.

 

I can't tell for sure, but I think the wiper door is down, but poorly fitted.

Either way, it seems like the seller put up the best pictures of the car, so I doubt that the car is worth 20k.

This explains what code 3 and code 4 means
https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtoo...and-Conditions

 

Good paint, interior, no rust, runs and no mech issues I think 20k is an ok price. You can get it for less.

 

I will agree it probably isn't a $20,000 car but there are not many places I am aware of that you can buy a chrome bumper car with no rust for $12K. It's worth more than that to most. You are absolutely right about the rubber fuel line.

 

The rubber fuel line is the one Holley ships with their carbs. Never installed it on mine. Went straight to the good stuff.

 

i for one am always skeptical when a car for sale has pictures with water on it.also ,the pictures suck.....

 

OK. I went and looked it over. I drove it a bit as well. It drove OK. I was on an old country road and it was pleasantly smooth. There was some play in the steering but not too bad. I'm really not sure how tight it should be. I'm coming for a C6 Z06 so it isn't anywhere near the same. The power wasn't instant but I felt the torque come on a few seconds. Supposed to have new brakes but they pulled really bad to the left. I just researched the car and it is NOT an original 454. It was a base 350. It was originally green. The engine is from either a 75 or 78 truck. It has been rebuilt with a 280 comp cam, 10:1 compression, .30 over. Torker aluminum intake and Holley 750 CFM carb. Supposed to be a M22 tranny. The frame looked good. I slid up under it. I couldn't get a lot of pictures. I couldn't remove the drivers side kick panel. The other side came off fairly easy. Just some surface rust. The owner allowed me to take anything apart I wanted to. He was curious like me. He just got the car in a trade. He has a 67 Chevelle that he traded for this car and some ca$h. After driving it once he felt it was too much for him. Now for the bad:

The paint SUX. It is bubbled all over and there are several runs. Definitely an amateur job. I didn't see too many cracks. I photoed all I could find. The door fit was not too good. Gaps were large in placed and very small in others. The rocker panels had the wrong screws and they were only so-so. The head light alignment wasn't great and the fiberglass on the front clip right above the lights looked like it was separating. The door handles were pitted pretty bad. It looks like some work was done to the inner fender right in front of the right wheel.




The hood alignment is not too good. The grill behind right front wheel only held on with 1 screw plus the one on the bottom. There is a chip in the body below it.




The hood has some cracks on the underside and a spider web crack in the center where the bolt in the breather kept poking it. There is a quarter inch hole on the underside. The passenger windshield pillar has had it. But there wasn't a lot of rust on the frame itself??



Both consoles were trash. The shifter plate has onlt 2 screws holding it in. The seats were Ok. The backs weren't. The T-tops were so so. The corner of one looks like it might have been dropped. The stainless trim was bent slightly. The fender trim pieces right below the a pillars are missing.

The fuel lines will have to be replaced. They are mixed rubber and metal. They go through the right rear wheel well.




Vacuum does not work at all. Lights do not raise, wiper door does not open. The wipers do not work at all. The switch feels broken. The speedo doesn't work. Obviously the tach doesn't. The water temp and clock don't. The trim around the rear cargo (battery) box needs replacing. The dash is good, no cracks and wasn't too hard. I pressed down on it pretty hard with my thumb and it didn't seem brittle.

The rear suspension needs some attention. Bushings etc. are cracking. The front was re-done and looks OK.
Here goes all of the pictures I took. Actually I took more but my phone was flaking out and didn't take some.









































































































































































































































































I told him I had another BB car to look at near Dallas and that the asking price of it was $15000. I even printed out the ad and showed him. I told him that I can't do over that and that I wasn't even offering that now, just that I would NOT pay more. He seemed OK with that. I told him I'd have to do some research and think about it before I made an offer or if I would make an offer..

 

If he got this car plus cash for his '67 Chevelle I hope it was a boat load of cash because that looks more like a parts car.

 

Dude. It isn't a parts car. Sheesh.

 

Great asst. of pics., the car looks like it has had very little if any maintenance done to it.
It will require attention in all areas, which adds up fast.
Personally I wouldn't pay anywhere near $15K for it.
I would seek a better candidate.