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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 09:49 AM
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Default Brake rebuild question

1969 corvette L46 with AC

I am in the process of rebuilding my brakes..

I am using lip seals in the pistons. If I eliminate the springs does this cause issues? Does anyone have experience with their brakes using lip seals without springs?

Thanks for your advice.

Last edited by ballen06; Dec 6, 2015 at 03:13 PM. Reason: no difference
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 03:24 PM
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Yes and do not leave the springs out. They are needed..
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by tracdogg2
Yes and do not leave the springs out. They are needed..


And hopefully you have the special tool to compress the lip seal so you can get them in the bore of the caliper without damage.,...UNLESS you plan in using another method.

DUB
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB


And hopefully you have the special tool to compress the lip seal so you can get them in the bore of the caliper without damage.,...UNLESS you plan in using another method.

DUB
OK .. thanks.. springs are in... dull screwdriver..

Last edited by ballen06; Dec 7, 2015 at 08:19 AM.
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB


And hopefully you have the special tool to compress the lip seal so you can get them in the bore of the caliper without damage.,...UNLESS you plan in using another method.

DUB
my special tool is a feeler gauge .020
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
my special tool is a feeler gauge .020

I use a little tiny screwdriver to work the lip seal into place. But before trying to hammer the dust seals in grind a slight bevel on them so they'll go in without catching the edge of the bore and bending the seal.
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 02:09 PM
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When you're done inserting the piston with the lip seal should the piston move easily in and out? How do you know if the lip seal is in correctly and not damaged??? Thanks!!!!!
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Old Dec 9, 2015 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by wallifishrmn
When you're done inserting the piston with the lip seal should the piston move easily in and out?
YES...somewhat. The spring behind the piston should be able to push the piston back out when it is on the table...but that also depends on if when pressing the piston inwards you keep it true to the bore. Also if you honed the bores...it will depend son how fine of a finish you honed them too.....assuming that they are stainless steel sleeved.


Originally Posted by wallifishrmn
How do you know if the lip seal is in correctly and not damaged??? Thanks!!!!!
By begin extremely careful and watching what you are doing. I have the correct tools that compress the lip seal and I can just push the piston down and they go right in. I have never spent the time trying to use a screwdriver or feeler gauge.

DUB
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 08:51 AM
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Years ago I bought a tool kit from one of the brake companies. It consisted of two stainless steel inserts, one for the back and one for the front. I would put the piston and seal in the insert and put the insert on the caliper bore and push the piston down into the caliper. I would use brake fluid as a lubricant. It is like using a ring compressor when building an engine. The kit also contained hard plastic pucks that were machined to fit the top seals, again, one for the front and a smaller one for the back. I would hit the puck with a hammer and that would seat the outer seal into the caliper. Doing it this way, you don't have to worry about nicking the inner lip with a screw driver or other tool. Jerry
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 02:28 PM
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I am rebuilding the brakes. Everything has go fine until it came to inserting the dust boots on the FRONT calipers. When I press the metal ring into the caliper--it pops right out. It's as if the ring is just a hair to small. The old ones were rusted when I took them out and now if I try the old ones they won't stay pressed in either. I repainted them put the new lip seals in, etc. The rear ones were fine but as I said the front metal ring will not stay in the bore. What gives????
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 02:52 PM
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I haven't done mine yet, but when I was reading up on how to do it, I came across this video. He puts the rings on at 15'...maybe it can help you
(edit: not especially helpful for Corvette brakes)

Last edited by D_Williams; Dec 14, 2015 at 07:31 AM.
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 04:22 PM
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Those brakes are different. The stock c3 brakes don't have a split ring--the metal ring is fused to the dust boot. The dust boot must be pressed into the groove around the piston. Since no one is responding, I may try red high temp silicone to hold it is place--used on intake manifolds, oil pans, etc.--good to 650F. Brakes can get up 500F and in track use push 650F.
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 05:07 PM
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YES...I AGREE...the above video is useless when comparing it to a Corvette 4 piston caliper.

AND ...YES...I would make sure the groove or land is CLEAN so whatever you put in the to hold the metal ring on your dust boot will stick....as I knwo you know...but other people may not...so I thought I would write it.

Seems like your choice in product to hold your dust boots in place may be the trick.

DUB
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 07:37 PM
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I used some small dabs of JB Weld--its good to 600F,
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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB
YES...I AGREE...the above video is useless when comparing it to a Corvette 4 piston caliper.
DUB
Thanks for letting me know, I guess I'll find out more about the brakes when I get them off my car to clean and rebuild them
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