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Not sure on the Honda one. On the Probe motors, there is four wires, 12V supply (Orange/White), Ground (Black?), Trigger open (Red), and Trigger closed, (Yellow). I used Richard454's relay he sells really cheap is worth it.
Started working on my conversion using late 80's Honda Accord motors. ($30 total investment).But I'm having a problem I have to iron out. It's a very simple system, no relays, just a motor with two "C" shaped paths for the contacts to follow with the gaps on opposite sides. Using one wire,when the contact reaches the gap, the motor shuts off-headlights open. Then the other wire will run it to the other gap - headlights close. My problem is that the momentum carries the contact past the gap and the motor keep running, and the headlight goes up and down and up and down continuously. At the end of the rod travel there's very little resistance. I'll figure this out, but do Mazda and Probe motors work the same way?
The Mazda/Ford's use a relay and a couple of diodes internally to stop the motor. I've looked at several other headlight motors and these ARE the way to go!!!
The only unfortunate thing -is the GTO/Cougars/Camaro guys are all using this motor- supply and demand- the prices have started to creep up.
here is mine. its not pretty but they work flawless.
Looks great!
I kinda like the Honda motors because besides being inexpensive, they're very simple. I've been experimenting and when I add some resistance with my hand, the motor stops at the designated spot each time. I think by adding a spring, it may add enough resistance to stop the motor. Once i get it right, I'll take some pictures.
I know a guy here in az that sells them for $35 a piece if anyone wants or needs a set i can either grab them and send em out for you or just send you his info and he will probably ship them straight to you.
Got it figured out. The Honda motor has a worm and roller locknut like on a steering box. By adding just a little resistance, the motor stops as it should. I just hope there's enough clearance for the hood to open fully.
Getting tired of driving my car during daylight runs and embarassed when I have to manually pull my headlights up. My motor only makes 8" of vacum at idle. Gotta love that cam lope idle! Anyway
I was looking at the electric conversion kits. Did a search and was pricing it out and found this on ebay,
Chiming in on an older thread but I bought one of "catheadlights" set ftom ebay. Have not installed it yet...Was gonna be my winter project, but building a deck and restoring and old sewing machine took over my winter. I need to get my priorities straight!
As with some of the other guys have said, its embarrasing when your driving down the road and a light pops up outta no where or when you turn the lights off, one goes down immediately and the other takes 5 mins! While I agree with some who have said, "just fix the issue", after having the car 16+ years now, the vacuum system seems to be a constant nickel and damn problem. Over the years Ive owned it, everything has been replaced at some point. Here we are again trying to diagnose it.
Pretty excited to get these electric morors put in. That guy has 100% positive feedback and I have talked to a few people eho said they were gooo quality. My question is how hard is this kit to put in?
I haven't seen the kit you are using...i put mine together with help from Richard and a few others. That said, it's a pretty simple install, especially if someone else has got the riffs already cut to length for you.
Your choice; your car. Getting the stock vacuum system up to snuff would be cheaper.
their is 10 different ways for the vacuum lines to be ran depending on motor configuration you can buy a manual for 10 dollars from zip corvettes stay stock natural enhancement is the way to go youtube viagravette for natural enhancement
He's the guy that copied brackets from this thread...AKA "Blue68cat"- his posts were removed as he's a non-supporting vendor. Oh- he's also the reason when I do an electrical drawing- I mark it w/ my info -as he copied that too and had it up on eBay.
We- forum members- put together a much better mousetrap-as we actually own a Vette- don't have to cut up your headlight bracket or even take apart the clevis pin as it fits the OEM thread.
Yeah exactly what I've been looking for. Always heard about overheating issues so I've never gotten around to it but seems like more people are having luck now.
This thread inspired me to try out Richards setup in leiu of a more expensive off-the shelf kit and I couldn't be happier. I had a lazy headlight and am getting ready for an engine swap so the timing couldn't have been better. Thankfully I was able to get everything pre-wired from Richard which made the install a snap. Overall time involved was less than 5 hours, which included removing the hood and removing/plugging the old vac lines. If I did it again I am sure I could get it done in less than 4 hours.
The only issue I ran into was that one of my clevis was bent a little which required the slot to be filed out a little more...keep in mind this was not an issue with the kit, but specific to my car. I will also be keeping the support struts and you can see in one of the pics where it is hanging loose. Just added a bolt and the bracket keeps all its rigidity.
For those of you that want to get rid of your vacuum headlights this is the way to go. The headlights are fast, set up is easy, and the final product is clean.
Mounted motors to inside so there was more space from the radiator
Backside with support bracket hanging...honestly think you could just remove, but I liked the idea of more support
Power from horn relay with fuse. Will secure the fuse once I remove the vacuum canister (post engine swap)
Driver side with bent clevis. You can see enlarged space. I did a crappy job and this will teach you to use a punch before you drill so the bit doesn't walk
Last edited by CPTCroaker; Jun 23, 2016 at 07:49 PM.
DSCN4669 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN4668 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
