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Half Shaft Removal

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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 06:32 PM
  #41  
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In the first photo of POST #17...I see the dust shield removed and sitting there with the flange and nut and washer.

The seal is pressed into the housing..so with whatever method you choose...all you are trying to do is distort the seal enough to weaken it and it will come out.

DUB
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 10:51 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by DUB
In the first photo of POST #17...I see the dust shield removed and sitting there with the flange and nut and washer.

The seal is pressed into the housing..so with whatever method you choose...all you are trying to do is distort the seal enough to weaken it and it will come out.

DUB
Many thanks DUB.

Steve
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Old Jan 2, 2016 | 01:41 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by DUB
...

THANK YOU for your input. Hopefully people who read this understand the dynamics of what is going on and trying to 'reinvent the wheel' in this area is pointless....in my opinion. Somebody is always trying to find a way to save time and get out of doing an important repair/service. I am not directing this at you....just making a statement on what I see being done here on the forum from time to time in this area. And as you know...setting up and correctly doing the rear wheel bearings is an easy job if you have the correct tools and knowledge.

...

Assuming that the bearing has not begun to spin the the shaft of the spindle...which can not bee seen when it is all together.

...
You have to remember I did that in 1977.

I have seen dozens since then think they have come up with something new, and get mad when I tell them it is a waste of time. There was even a company that marketed this and I tried to point out this not only didn't work, but it would create a false sense of security.


Since the bearings press on, I don't think they will spin if they are kept greased, like front bearings, if you start greasing them regularly after new ones are installed.

If you don't, all it takes is a bit of friction and they could drag enough to begin to spin. Everything would change and then greasing them alone won't really help.

Used ones with lots of miles are an unknown, and could have already loosen on the spindle and be able to spin.
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Old Jan 2, 2016 | 05:57 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Procrastination Racing
You have to remember I did that in 1977.

I have seen dozens since then think they have come up with something new, and get mad when I tell them it is a waste of time. There was even a company that marketed this and I tried to point out this not only didn't work, but it would create a false sense of security.


Since the bearings press on, I don't think they will spin if they are kept greased, like front bearings, if you start greasing them regularly after new ones are installed.

If you don't, all it takes is a bit of friction and they could drag enough to begin to spin. Everything would change and then greasing them alone won't really help.

Used ones with lots of miles are an unknown, and could have already loosen on the spindle and be able to spin.


No argument at all. I KNOW you KNOW what you are doing. And I am NOT judging anything you do. And I feel that we both have the same basic thoughts...and that is bearing maintenance.

Because I have seen and removed so many spindles where the outer bearing stays in the bearing housing with the grease seal and it came right off the spindle where it should have been pressed on....and so many inner bearings that were so shot....the just trying to get the spindle out is a feat within itself due to the roller bearings are disintegrated and keeping the spindle true so it can come off the bearing is really FUN.

So...the dry bearing issue IS a FACTOR!!!!!!!!!!!

DUB
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Old Jan 2, 2016 | 08:47 PM
  #45  
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So, gentlemen,

Bad GM design?

BTW, during the process of pushing out the U-joints on the second Half Shaft, a risk and potential hazard I fully understood that might happen, did!



Dropped the shaft out of the vise/socket setup, and OF COURSE it fell right on the shield. Had wished it had hit my foot first.

Has anyone here tried pulling off that shield? It would be a lot easier to work on, in the effort to work the curve back into it.

Steve

Last edited by Cavu2u; Jan 3, 2016 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Jan 3, 2016 | 06:23 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
Has anyone here tried pulling off that shield? It would be a lot easier to work on, in the effort to work the curve back into it.

Steve
This repair is quite simple. NO need to remove the shield....because I never do when I see this collar shield dented.

This is simple metal work 101. Using a good solid piece of curved steel that will not move or easily get dented and will hold its shape. Lock it into your vise...so you can slide this piece of metal on the dented in side...and then hammer the shield from the outside. The dent will come right out. Work from the outer ends of the dent towards the center...doing it from each side. Back and forth. By doing this...the center of the dent will come out and need very little massaging.

Literally this dent can be out in a couple of minutes...it that.

DUB
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Old Jan 3, 2016 | 07:39 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by DUB
This repair is quite simple. NO need to remove the shield....because I never do when I see this collar shield dented.

This is simple metal work 101. Using a good solid piece of curved steel that will not move or easily get dented and will hold its shape. Lock it into your vise...so you can slide this piece of metal on the dented in side...and then hammer the shield from the outside. The dent will come right out. Work from the outer ends of the dent towards the center...doing it from each side. Back and forth. By doing this...the center of the dent will come out and need very little massaging.

Literally this dent can be out in a couple of minutes...it that.

DUB
Thanks much DUB. I'll give it a try.

Steve
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