Bleeding brakes
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 8
From: Chichester, UK
Bleeding brakes
Hey Guys
Getting my 80 back on the road and one of my last jobs is to replace the brake fluid.
I have an access to a pressure bleeder which means I can apply pressure to the MC and force the fluid through.
I am right to think that I have to depress the brake pedal during the bleed!?
Also, how many bleeding nipples should there be on the rear callipers (2 or 3)
And, should I use TPF tape on the nipples?
Thank you
Getting my 80 back on the road and one of my last jobs is to replace the brake fluid.
I have an access to a pressure bleeder which means I can apply pressure to the MC and force the fluid through.
I am right to think that I have to depress the brake pedal during the bleed!?
Also, how many bleeding nipples should there be on the rear callipers (2 or 3)
And, should I use TPF tape on the nipples?
Thank you
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,371
Likes: 223
From: Beecher Illinois
When pressure bleeding no need to depress the pedal.
Rear calipers have TWO bleeders at the uppermost side of the caliper. There is a plug on the lower side opposite the steel line.
Sometimes a rebuilder might put a bleeder there but ignore it.
As for Teflon tape on the bleeder threads it shouldn't be necessary as the seal is actually at the base of the bleeder to the surface it presses against.
But I myself do use a thin bit of Teflon tape to keep bleeders from freezing up, altho some may frown on this.
I've come across the occasional NEW bleeder that's hard to seal and then went back to the original.
Paul, did you get my PM last week?
Rear calipers have TWO bleeders at the uppermost side of the caliper. There is a plug on the lower side opposite the steel line.
Sometimes a rebuilder might put a bleeder there but ignore it.
As for Teflon tape on the bleeder threads it shouldn't be necessary as the seal is actually at the base of the bleeder to the surface it presses against.
But I myself do use a thin bit of Teflon tape to keep bleeders from freezing up, altho some may frown on this.
I've come across the occasional NEW bleeder that's hard to seal and then went back to the original.
Paul, did you get my PM last week?
Last edited by KapsSA; Jan 14, 2016 at 03:55 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 8
From: Chichester, UK
When pressure bleeding no need to depress the pedal.
Rear calipers have TWO bleeders at the uppermost side of the caliper. There is a plug on the lower side opposite the steel line.
Sometimes a rebuilder might put a bleeder there but ignore it.
As for Teflon tape on the bleeder threads it shouldn't be necessary as the seal is actually at the base of the bleeder to the surface it presses against.
But I myself do use a thin bit of Teflon tape to keep bleeders from freezing up, altho some may frown on this.
I've come across the occasional NEW bleeder that's hard to seal and then went back to the original.
Paul, did you get my PM last week?
Rear calipers have TWO bleeders at the uppermost side of the caliper. There is a plug on the lower side opposite the steel line.
Sometimes a rebuilder might put a bleeder there but ignore it.
As for Teflon tape on the bleeder threads it shouldn't be necessary as the seal is actually at the base of the bleeder to the surface it presses against.
But I myself do use a thin bit of Teflon tape to keep bleeders from freezing up, altho some may frown on this.
I've come across the occasional NEW bleeder that's hard to seal and then went back to the original.
Paul, did you get my PM last week?
Yes, I have the email, been away haven had a chance to reply, but will shortly.
Thank you so much for your help
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
IF the system went dry and NO fluid is in your master cylinder...using the pressure bleeder will work because I have one at my shop and use it. IF it went dry...jack up the rear of the car so the master cylinder is level. Then...when you are bleeding...I DO slowly press down on the brake pedal once or twice and that is it....this is so IF there is any small bubbles in the valving of the master cylinder...they will get agitated and get pushed out under the pressure of the fluid going through it. ALSO...I shock the fame so IF the system was dry...any small micro bubbles that may be clinging to the inside of your brake lines...they will get shocked and get forced about also. I do this TWICE....once when doing the rear brakes...and then I do it again when doing the front brakes...beacsue they are independent of each other.
IF the system DID NOT go dry...then bleed it til you get clean fluid. If the fluid in the reservoir is dirty...I get it out and fill it with clean fluid BEFORE I connect my attachment to the master cylinder so it saves on brake fluid. And fluid that does not look CLEAN/CLEAR like new fluid ...I consider 'dirty' and I get it out of the reservoir.
DUB
IF the system DID NOT go dry...then bleed it til you get clean fluid. If the fluid in the reservoir is dirty...I get it out and fill it with clean fluid BEFORE I connect my attachment to the master cylinder so it saves on brake fluid. And fluid that does not look CLEAN/CLEAR like new fluid ...I consider 'dirty' and I get it out of the reservoir.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Jan 15, 2016 at 05:55 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
And I agree...but since I bought my pressure bleeder about 25+ years ago....bleeding brakes and hydraulic clutches is/are a joke. Literally a 'one man' job.
DUB
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
Ya know.....I recently changed four calipers, rear trailing arm lines and front brake hoses on a very neglected 76'......as well as the master.
I gravity bled the right rear first, then the left.....
In the front....I had a buddy help me do the pump,pump,pump,crack....
Four cracks on each side in the front.....
This car had a rock hard pedal.....
I read these threads and wonder what the big deal is....
My 66' was the exact same way......super easy.
The only tip I can give is crack the bleeder in the back that is highest....and bench bleed your master...(this is not as big of a deal as some make it out to be either...)
Pressure bleeding is sure nice to have.....but I do not own one after 25 years of messing around.
Just my rant....carry on
Jebby
I gravity bled the right rear first, then the left.....
In the front....I had a buddy help me do the pump,pump,pump,crack....
Four cracks on each side in the front.....
This car had a rock hard pedal.....
I read these threads and wonder what the big deal is....
My 66' was the exact same way......super easy.
The only tip I can give is crack the bleeder in the back that is highest....and bench bleed your master...(this is not as big of a deal as some make it out to be either...)
Pressure bleeding is sure nice to have.....but I do not own one after 25 years of messing around.
Just my rant....carry on
Jebby
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
If it has anything to do with how the bias in the brakes is changed when installed.....I would be hard pressed to use it.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Ya know.....I recently changed four calipers, rear trailing arm lines and front brake hoses on a very neglected 76'......as well as the master.
I gravity bled the right rear first, then the left.....
In the front....I had a buddy help me do the pump,pump,pump,crack....
Four cracks on each side in the front.....
This car had a rock hard pedal.....
I read these threads and wonder what the big deal is....
My 66' was the exact same way......super easy.
The only tip I can give is crack the bleeder in the back that is highest....and bench bleed your master...(this is not as big of a deal as some make it out to be either...)
Pressure bleeding is sure nice to have.....but I do not own one after 25 years of messing around.
Just my rant....carry on
Jebby
I gravity bled the right rear first, then the left.....
In the front....I had a buddy help me do the pump,pump,pump,crack....
Four cracks on each side in the front.....
This car had a rock hard pedal.....
I read these threads and wonder what the big deal is....
My 66' was the exact same way......super easy.
The only tip I can give is crack the bleeder in the back that is highest....and bench bleed your master...(this is not as big of a deal as some make it out to be either...)
Pressure bleeding is sure nice to have.....but I do not own one after 25 years of messing around.
Just my rant....carry on
Jebby
YES...a pressure bleeder is great to have....and it only took a few years working for myself to realize that I NEEDED to buy one. The amount of time I have saved in 30 years of doing occasional brake jobs has well paid for itself time and time again.
DUB
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
One thing I keep telling myself I want to buy is a A/C evac/charge deal....but I just do not do enough of them.....
I DO need a 3/8" Snap-On cordless electric impact though....
Jebby
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I know the feeling ALL TOO WELL also. I keep thinking that the amount of money for some of the major tools I need....much like the A/C evac/recharge tool...I can go over to my guy and let him do it for a really long time before I feel I am screwing myself and it is now a point of diminishing return. DUB
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,247
Likes: 471
From: Glen Allen, VA
A Motive pressure bleeder is one of the best investments I've made for my 79. It gave me a rock hard pedal and the best braking my car ever had. One man job, and no need to press the brake pedal because my system didn't go dry. Wish I had thought of DUB's suggestion of puling all the dirty fluid out of the master cylinder first, rather than push it all though the lines.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 101
Likes: 1
From: Mi
I know the feeling ALL TOO WELL also. I keep thinking that the amount of money for some of the major tools I need....much like the A/C evac/recharge tool...I can go over to my guy and let him do it for a really long time before I feel I am screwing myself and it is now a point of diminishing return. DUB
Dont get an a/c machine if you can avoid it. Every time you hook up your $5k or more machine to a system to evacuate it, you cross your fingers and pray to the gods of a/c that bubba didn't dump some stop leak in there to plug up your machine and possibly ruin it.
Rob
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
Sorry to hijack thread, but -
Dont get an a/c machine if you can avoid it. Every time you hook up your $5k or more machine to a system to evacuate it, you cross your fingers and pray to the gods of a/c that bubba didn't dump some stop leak in there to plug up your machine and possibly ruin it.
Rob
Dont get an a/c machine if you can avoid it. Every time you hook up your $5k or more machine to a system to evacuate it, you cross your fingers and pray to the gods of a/c that bubba didn't dump some stop leak in there to plug up your machine and possibly ruin it.
Rob
Anyhoo.....what Pressure Bleeding systems are you guys using? I may buy one.....
Jebby
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
It has two halves...fluid on the top and it is separated by a membrane and the air is below it...so you are pressurizing the container and forcing the fluid though the system. VERY USEFUL for me when I am working on the later year models with anti-lock brakes and have to push the fluid through at a higher pressure...roughly around 22 psi.
http://www.zoro.com/gearwrench-brake...g&gclsrc=aw.ds
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Sorry to hijack thread, but -
Dont get an a/c machine if you can avoid it. Every time you hook up your $5k or more machine to a system to evacuate it, you cross your fingers and pray to the gods of a/c that bubba didn't dump some stop leak in there to plug up your machine and possibly ruin it.
Rob
Dont get an a/c machine if you can avoid it. Every time you hook up your $5k or more machine to a system to evacuate it, you cross your fingers and pray to the gods of a/c that bubba didn't dump some stop leak in there to plug up your machine and possibly ruin it.
Rob
GREAT HEADS-UP!!!
Always something more to have to worry about.....JUST GOTTA LOVE IT!
DUB
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 121
From: Kernersville NC
I don't do these regularly....I do them for myself and the other Muscle Car and Street Rod guys......R134A works much better if ALL if the air is out......especially on systems that were originally designed for R12.
Anyhoo.....what Pressure Bleeding systems are you guys using? I may buy one.....
Jebby
Anyhoo.....what Pressure Bleeding systems are you guys using? I may buy one.....
Jebby
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 254
From: Catlett VA
bleeding brakes
I notice no one mentioned installing speed bleeders on the calipers to replace the stock bleed nipples. They are about $8 each, have a one-way valve in them and make it a one man job. RA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 8,940
Likes: 35
From: El Cajon California
I bled mine the old fashioned way with my daughter pressing the pedal and myself opening and closing the bleeder valve, that being said the order in which you bleed the brakes is very odd...
You need to bleed the brakes in the following fashion...
Left rear inner
Left rear outer
Right rear inner
Right rear outer
Left front
Right front
You need to bleed the brakes in the following fashion...
Left rear inner
Left rear outer
Right rear inner
Right rear outer
Left front
Right front