First Post, Looking at a C3, Big Block?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
25 years ago these cars were VERY hot, not cheap at all. 1991 was when the muscle car craze was in full swing.
As far as thinking this car would have any value to restore you would be making a big mistake. To restore this thing hoping to get your money out of it would be a waste of time. Even if it had the original motor you would most likely be on the losing end. Finding a correct big block will be at least $7-10k built. Paint will be $10-15k. Finding the right interior one off parts for a 68 will drive you nuts and cost you money. Big block hood $1k. Everything else maybe another $10k maybe more depending on what it needs.
If you want to have a car to have fun in and drive around then go for it. But I wouldn't drop too much money into this.
As far as thinking this car would have any value to restore you would be making a big mistake. To restore this thing hoping to get your money out of it would be a waste of time. Even if it had the original motor you would most likely be on the losing end. Finding a correct big block will be at least $7-10k built. Paint will be $10-15k. Finding the right interior one off parts for a 68 will drive you nuts and cost you money. Big block hood $1k. Everything else maybe another $10k maybe more depending on what it needs.
If you want to have a car to have fun in and drive around then go for it. But I wouldn't drop too much money into this.
Last edited by robbz28; Feb 3, 2016 at 11:46 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,103
Likes: 802
From: Massapequa Park NY
What about parts and materials. I do my own work too and this will eat up the dollars. Correct parts are a forture.
You still have to find a correct engine, then a correct carb another 500-1000. Same for an alternator, starter, etc.
That's why it's not really worth going the "collectible" route as the collectors want to see these things but they will not really care if the drive train isn't original anyway.
Even if you do your own paint work then you know what it takes to paint a car.
If you like doing this sort of thing (I enjoy it) then have a blast. But you will not be making any money. Not even close. It's not worth your time on a car like this.
If you have the time and talent, find one that is more correct.
I hate seeing guys get burned on what they think is a good deal.
Good luck
You still have to find a correct engine, then a correct carb another 500-1000. Same for an alternator, starter, etc.
That's why it's not really worth going the "collectible" route as the collectors want to see these things but they will not really care if the drive train isn't original anyway.
Even if you do your own paint work then you know what it takes to paint a car.
If you like doing this sort of thing (I enjoy it) then have a blast. But you will not be making any money. Not even close. It's not worth your time on a car like this.
If you have the time and talent, find one that is more correct.
I hate seeing guys get burned on what they think is a good deal.
Good luck
Last edited by ed427vette; Feb 3, 2016 at 11:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
What about parts and materials. I do my own work too and this will eat up the dollars. Correct parts are a future.
You still have to find a correct engine, then a correct carb another 500-1000. Same for an alternator, starter, etc.
That's why it's not really worth going the "collectible" route as the collectors want to see these things but they will not really care if the drive train isn't original anyway.
Even if you do your own paint work then you know what it takes to paint a car.
If you like doing this sort of thing (I enjoy it) then have a blast. But you will not be making any money. Not even close. It's not worth your time on a car like this.
If you have the time and talent, find one that is more correct.
I hate seeing guys get burned on what they think is a good deal.
Good luck
You still have to find a correct engine, then a correct carb another 500-1000. Same for an alternator, starter, etc.
That's why it's not really worth going the "collectible" route as the collectors want to see these things but they will not really care if the drive train isn't original anyway.
Even if you do your own paint work then you know what it takes to paint a car.
If you like doing this sort of thing (I enjoy it) then have a blast. But you will not be making any money. Not even close. It's not worth your time on a car like this.
If you have the time and talent, find one that is more correct.
I hate seeing guys get burned on what they think is a good deal.
Good luck
I'm not looking to make this a nut and bolt original trailer queen. I just want a darn nice car, if I can get lucky and source a correct engine down the road great, but I have a 502 just taking up space that will fill that part for now.
I just want to know what I'm buying, I like to know everything I can that's why I'm here. What is a mismatched but solid 68 vert worth? Is 12500 too much to pay for a good set of bones? I may resto mod the car like my 67 mustang, those purists on that forum went for my throat at every post, but I sold it for double what I had in it. But i never expected that, it just happened...I enjoyed the build and the conversation from other enthusiasts
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,103
Likes: 802
From: Massapequa Park NY
Not looking to make money, it's a hobby, it's for fun.
I'm not looking to make this a nut and bolt original trailer queen. I just want a darn nice car, if I can get lucky and source a correct engine down the road great, but I have a 502 just taking up space that will fill that part for now.
I just want to know what I'm buying, I like to know everything I can that's why I'm here. What is a mismatched but solid 68 vert worth? Is 12500 too much to pay for a good set of bones? I may resto mod the car like my 67 mustang, those purists on that forum went for my throat at every post, but I sold it for double what I had in it. But i never expected that, it just happened...I enjoyed the build and the conversation from other enthusiasts
I'm not looking to make this a nut and bolt original trailer queen. I just want a darn nice car, if I can get lucky and source a correct engine down the road great, but I have a 502 just taking up space that will fill that part for now.
I just want to know what I'm buying, I like to know everything I can that's why I'm here. What is a mismatched but solid 68 vert worth? Is 12500 too much to pay for a good set of bones? I may resto mod the car like my 67 mustang, those purists on that forum went for my throat at every post, but I sold it for double what I had in it. But i never expected that, it just happened...I enjoyed the build and the conversation from other enthusiasts
It sounds like you probably have a nice shop with good tools at your disposal. Do you happen to have one of those cameras on a wire? The kind you can stick down a radiator for example to have a look around on the screen.
If so, take it and look for the tank sticker, which is the build sheet for the car. It will be located (hopefully still there and in one readable piece) on top the drivers side of the gas tank. You can see it by just pressing down on the rubber filler neck boot. But the camera will help you read it.
You never know, it could be a aluminum head L89. If it is, don't start jumping up and down. Just take the car and go......
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Here's what you can do that will pretty much answer all your questions.
It sounds like you probably have a nice shop with good tools at your disposal. Do you happen to have one of those cameras on a wire? The kind you can stick down a radiator for example to have a look around on the screen.
If so, take it and look for the tank sticker, which is the build sheet for the car. It will be located (hopefully still there and in one readable piece) on top the drivers side of the gas tank. You can see it by just pressing down on the rubber filler neck boot. But the camera will help you read it.
You never know, it could be a aluminum head L89. If it is, don't start jumping up and down. Just take the car and go......
It sounds like you probably have a nice shop with good tools at your disposal. Do you happen to have one of those cameras on a wire? The kind you can stick down a radiator for example to have a look around on the screen.
If so, take it and look for the tank sticker, which is the build sheet for the car. It will be located (hopefully still there and in one readable piece) on top the drivers side of the gas tank. You can see it by just pressing down on the rubber filler neck boot. But the camera will help you read it.
You never know, it could be a aluminum head L89. If it is, don't start jumping up and down. Just take the car and go......
Great tip!
Last edited by robbz28; Feb 4, 2016 at 12:34 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Just to add, the seller is not trying to pass this off as anything. He told me he does not know if it's a real big block car or not, only that he knows that the engine is a 350 and he believes it was a big block car. This is one of those "It was my brothers car, then my dad bought it, then I bought it" deals and none of them apparently ever did anything with the car.
Currently I am not planning on trading, but ask me again in a couple of hours...I do plan on looking at it, have warned him that I intend on removing panels, and looking at it closer than anyone has looked at it in a long time. Made my intentions clear and that the most I can promise him is that we may have a clearer understanding of the history of the car and a good conversation, however if I like what I see then perhaps we will do business. To which he agreed.
Thank you all for the tips, I have a nice list here to go by. Really the only thing I can think of is lets say the off chance I can read the build sheet and I see 427/435....then I may come home with it.
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 254
From: Catlett VA
68 convert
robbz28-- your one reply perhaps gave the most info. You are not looking to make money on this deal, but want to get a fun driving car. So if you can do most of the work yourself and the car does not have frame rot or other glaring structural damage, the asking price is probably fair. I had a similar goal in buying my 68 convert. I paid twice what your asking price is, but the cosmetic stuff had been done- paint, seats, carpet, interior- and the engine was a good running NOM 454 with good 4 speed. Engine had chrome everywhere. Downside was many, many electrical problems which took most of my time to fix and little annoying trim mistakes due to a quick paint job. Good luck checking out your car. RA
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
robbz28-- your one reply perhaps gave the most info. You are not looking to make money on this deal, but want to get a fun driving car. So if you can do most of the work yourself and the car does not have frame rot or other glaring structural damage, the asking price is probably fair. I had a similar goal in buying my 68 convert. I paid twice what your asking price is, but the cosmetic stuff had been done- paint, seats, carpet, interior- and the engine was a good running NOM 454 with good 4 speed. Engine had chrome everywhere. Downside was many, many electrical problems which took most of my time to fix and little annoying trim mistakes due to a quick paint job. Good luck checking out your car. RA
Thank you
Safety Car
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,753
Likes: 721
From: Lafayette Louisiana
I had the same question on my 68 454
I had the same question on my 68 454 NOM and did a post back at Christmas, here it is, plus the feedback I got at the time, all comments are welcome:
I was curious as to how you could actually tell if a C3 was previously a "big block" car.
1. has the 5600 red line tach
2. has the 427 hood
3. has rear stabilizer rod or sway bar 9/16"
4. has 15/16" front stabilizer rod
5. larger indent in cross support under the engine for BB harmonic balancer (Maybe? thought I read this somewhere for C2's, but maybe dreaming, ha!)
6. rear end U joint are caps not straps.
7. no holes on the passenger inner fender for an expansion tank, indents in the fiberglass, but no holes since no expansion tank.
8. 23x17 copper radiator core with no expansion tank.
9. front springs little green code sticker for BB's, HU or HV
10. correct coded rear
Hope this might help, I agree, while I thought it might be cool to say my 68 was a BB car, in the end, I think you have to price it with the NOM engine in the Corvette now, BB a little more, SB a little less.
Good luck in the hunt!
I was curious as to how you could actually tell if a C3 was previously a "big block" car.
1. has the 5600 red line tach
2. has the 427 hood
3. has rear stabilizer rod or sway bar 9/16"
4. has 15/16" front stabilizer rod
5. larger indent in cross support under the engine for BB harmonic balancer (Maybe? thought I read this somewhere for C2's, but maybe dreaming, ha!)
6. rear end U joint are caps not straps.
7. no holes on the passenger inner fender for an expansion tank, indents in the fiberglass, but no holes since no expansion tank.
8. 23x17 copper radiator core with no expansion tank.
9. front springs little green code sticker for BB's, HU or HV
10. correct coded rear
Hope this might help, I agree, while I thought it might be cool to say my 68 was a BB car, in the end, I think you have to price it with the NOM engine in the Corvette now, BB a little more, SB a little less.
Good luck in the hunt!
Last edited by 20mercury; Feb 4, 2016 at 11:11 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
I had the same question on my 68 454 NOM and did a post back at Christmas, here it is, plus the feedback I got at the time, all comments are welcome:
I was curious as to how you could actually tell if a C3 was previously a "big block" car.
1. has the 5600 red line tach
2. has the 427 hood
3. has rear stabilizer rod or sway bar 9/16"
4. has 15/16" front stabilizer rod
5. larger indent in cross support under the engine for BB harmonic balancer (Maybe? thought I read this somewhere for C2's, but maybe dreaming, ha!)
6. rear end U joint are caps not straps.
7. no holes on the passenger inner fender for an expansion tank, indents in the fiberglass, but no holes since no expansion tank.
8. 23x17 copper radiator core with no expansion tank.
9. front springs little green code sticker for BB's, HU or HV
10. correct coded rear
Hope this might help, I agree, while I thought it might be cool to say my 68 was a BB car, in the end, I think you have to price it with the NOM engine in the Corvette now, BB a little more, SB a little less.
Good luck in the hunt!
I was curious as to how you could actually tell if a C3 was previously a "big block" car.
1. has the 5600 red line tach
2. has the 427 hood
3. has rear stabilizer rod or sway bar 9/16"
4. has 15/16" front stabilizer rod
5. larger indent in cross support under the engine for BB harmonic balancer (Maybe? thought I read this somewhere for C2's, but maybe dreaming, ha!)
6. rear end U joint are caps not straps.
7. no holes on the passenger inner fender for an expansion tank, indents in the fiberglass, but no holes since no expansion tank.
8. 23x17 copper radiator core with no expansion tank.
9. front springs little green code sticker for BB's, HU or HV
10. correct coded rear
Hope this might help, I agree, while I thought it might be cool to say my 68 was a BB car, in the end, I think you have to price it with the NOM engine in the Corvette now, BB a little more, SB a little less.
Good luck in the hunt!
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Also car has 7 leaf spring
Last edited by robbz28; Feb 4, 2016 at 08:23 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,753
Likes: 721
From: Lafayette Louisiana
That is it.
That is it. I had the same dimples in the same place on my 68 454 NOM. In my case, since I wanted to install Vintage Air, I bought a 69+ DeWitts big block radiator which required an expansion tank so I had to drill out the dimples to mount the expansion tank. Kinda of hated to drill the dimples, but hey the 69+BB radiator is bigger than the one I could have fitted if I stayed all 68. More radiator is good in Louisiana.
Good luck with the purchase. I am thinking unless you see body work around the hood surround and fenders and so the inner fender might have been replaced (but who really knows), the odds go up that this one could have been a big block. IMHO, check completed ebay and Mechum for pricing on 68's with NOM SB's. Again, just my 2 cents, I personally would not pay any premium for "used to be a BB car", you are buying what it is right now and want to pay a fair market price (or less as a buyer,
) Again good luck with the hunt, Jan/Feb is a buyer's market for great deals.
Last edited by 20mercury; Feb 5, 2016 at 01:13 AM.
