Hi,
What the approximate value of a '69 427 4spd convertible project car? Original tri-carb was converted to single 4-barrel. Car is sound but has been parked in an unheated garage and not started for 15-20 years . Will require paint, Maybe engine overhaul, maybe new roof, possibly re chrome of bumpers, new tires, brake overhaul etc.... Is there any reason I should stay away from this year or any particular issues I should look for?

 

Here are the Hagerty values for a '69 427/435 vert.
https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuati...vette?id=75673


Read this especially concerning rust.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html

 

Well, it depends on many things that you haven't yet stated which are very important.

But before I give you a list let me answer your question about staying away from a 69 corvette. If it was me and my list below checked out. I would buy it for a fair price. But I like working on these cars (cars in general). I also don't care if I make money or not when or if I want to sell it.

Now for things that make these barn finds worth it, in my opinion.

Which HP tripower is it supposed to be? 400 is good, 435 is better. What color combo. That can have an impact.

Does it have low ownership? Can the ownership be easily tracked down? Does it have good, real documentation from GM stating what the car came with like a tank sticker, window sticker, protecto plate, etc? How original is the car really? Drive train: Motor, trans, rear, all born with original? The intake and carbs on this car are gone or just off the car? If gone that's a good $4-5k right there in correct original parts. Alternator, starter, water pump, radiator, master cylinder are these parts original? Smog equipment still with the car? Original glass? Trim tag present? Most just listed are big dollar parts to replace. If they are there, we are off to a good start.

Yes to any of these is trouble.
Frame rust?
Birdcage rust?
Indication of bad accident such as body repair?
Non factory paint overspray on parts?
Doors don't close very well?

Also, other factory options can make a big difference such as side pipes, leather seats are nice, extra hardtop, etc

If everything is there as stated above regarding parts, meaning this car is a true original except the tripower a good rebuildable barn find for a 400 HP in my opinion is $30-35. 435hp add another 7-10k. I don't know if the cars are worth it but that's what I would pay.

The cost to totally restore will likely be $40-50k
10-15k paint
5-10k engine rebuild
10k for frame/suspension
10k for everything else, interior, misc
5k for carbs/manifold, etc

Just a guess but I could be off by a lot. So take it for what its worth.

Your question is common and its impossible to know for sure what anything will cost until you are ready to pay the bill.

You can only buy the car for one reason. Because you love it. That's it.

Hope it helps,
Ed

 

You just described my dream car.
I'm no expert by any stretch but I will offer my opinion. Even if it needs work and provided the frame and bird cage is not rusty, then I cant think of any other car to take a risk of putting too much money into than one of these.

 

Is the car for sale? You imply it is, but don't actually say it. If it is for sale, what is the seller asking?

 

Hi ds,
Welcome!
Ed has set up the situation you're in with a car like you describe really well.
For many people it's the most desirable of the 68-72 cars except for the few cars like the L-88, L-89, and LS-6 cars.
That's the really good side of having a car like you've asked about.
But the other side is that even without any pictures or really much description you've described a car that seems to need everything... and that takes lot's of money.
I agree that you'll first need to determine just what this car IS before you can decide what kind of commitment you can or will want to make to it.
It will certainly require serious amounts of time, work, and money.
BUT, it could be a fabulous car!!!
Regards,
Alan