Absolutely no response from the lights .. they stayed bright.

 

When was the last time you started the engine? Maybe you changed or added something that is causing the start circuit to Malfunction?
Check your amp/ charging gauge on dash when you turn your key on/start position. If the needle moves to neg. side of gauge you may have a short somewhere.

Stay on it good luck

 

Being by yourself can make this a longer process than you would like. Youmay have to make some jumpers that are long enough to go from your starter to your meter if its laying on your windshield so you can see it. You need to be able to turn the key to start

If you can see voltage getting to the solenoid then its the solenoid sticking or being bad.

A trick I was taught by a mechanic for old cars is to tka a hammer and tapthe starter and solenois a few times, then try the key. Just tap it from the wrist, not bashing it.
http://alternatorstartershop.blogspo...get-it-to.html

It worked on my old trans am when my starter went bad. it got me home on a rainy night

The more I think of it the more it sounds like thats your problem. You can pull it and bring it to autzone for a free test

 

Now you have the first answer...the problem is in the starter circuit. As suggested, take off the starter and have it tested at an auto store. Its just a process of elimination.

If the starter checks out start looking for an anti theft device or a defective switch that won't allow the starter to engage unless the clutch is disengaged or with an automatic to put it in neutral or park.

And then of coarse there's the ignition switch.

Keep looking and good luck.

 

Thanks .. Definitely the starter circuit.. I'll check the voltage to the solenoid... (purple wire?).. do I really need to disconnect this wire?

 

Just for everyone's information..

I am in the process of restoring my car..

I just reinstalled the engine... replaced the engine harness .. (and AC harness) so it's possible the ignition circuit is miswired.

The ignition switch worked fine prior to my pulling the engine. (if that means anything)

I pulled the steering column to work on the drivers side dash panel .. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with this issue.

Anyway just a little insight into my status.

 

Question..

If I do not get a voltage across the neutral safety switch does this mean I have a faulty ignition switch?

 

You may have pinched your column wiring harness when you reinstalled it. Could be a starting point. As for the neutral safety switch, I believe that is the 12v from your ignition switch to your starter solenoid which causes your solenoid to close. (that's how it is on my Impala and Grand Prix anyway. Should be identical). If there is no 12v present there, look at the wiring between the neutral safety switch and your ignition switch. Or your ignition switch (I know you said it worked earlier).

 

Thanks Redhook...Do I need to disconnect the solenoid wire in order to check for voltage there?

 

You shouldn't. A simple test light will help if your still doing it yourself. If you have no voltage at your starter solenoid, then the next link heading back to your switch will be the neutral safety switch. No 12v there then your looking at wiring between the safety switch and ignition switch or the ignition switch itself.

This isn't so hard to troubleshoot as long as you start ant one end and methodically work your way towards the source or end. It gets hard when you have a lot of inputs from different people and jump around though. Start at the starter solenoid and work your way to the ignition switch until you find 12v.

Something you could try also is to short your starter solenoid to ensure your starter is OK. I feel that it is though as you have no appreciable draw (your lights do not dim) when turning your ignition key to start. If your starter was binding, a lot of amps would be drawn on your starter and lights would have dimmed. That is why most think it is in your ignition starting circuit. Not much there to TS, just tedious.

Not sure, but is there a fuse for the ignition, or a fusible link? Have you checked that?

 

Yes ... there is a fuse for the ignition... I'll check that.

 

I would just run a remote jumper wire to the starter solenoid and a remote test wire from the battery positive. When jumpered together (momentarily), interlocks and switches have been bypassed and will quickly help isolate problem. One can also connect the voltmeter to the battery remote test wire to monitor voltage. BE CAREFUL that the remote battery wire does not makes electrical contact with vehicle ground as your remote test battery wire is not fused and all sorts of bad things can happen...

 

fuse is good.

 

If I don't get voltage at the neutral safety switch and the ignition fuse is good ,... my problem must be in the ignition switch or bad connector to the column or pinched wire..does that make sense?

I will check the above tomorrow ... maybe.. I have company..

I want to thank everyone for their diagnostic help... still have work to do though .. nothing is easy on this car.

 

Yes