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Anyone have an easy way to get to this cable to repair or replace WITHOUT removing dash or lowering the column? I have my seats out because I'm waiting for my belts to come. I'm 6'2" and I've been lying on my back upside down trying to get my hands up in there to at least try to take the severe bend out, but I've givin up. It appears that the end of the cable where it goes into the back of the speedo is crushed behind one of the dash braces. It looks like a 90 degree bend. The cable pushes up to set as it should, and springs back, but it won't reset.My odometer is working in that it keeps track of mileage. My speedo works fine too. I don't want to damage my speedo cable or the gears in the odometer or trip meter. This is the worst repair I've attempted so far to no avail. Having the car judged in June. I'm at the point of taking the 25pt. hit
I know this has been discussed on all forums. There is a guy who says he has a tool for this, but will not respond to my email inquiring about it. $35.00plus shipping?? Has anyone used this tool?
Thanks!
When I replaced the speakers in my 73, I had to lower the steering column slightly and pulled the dash out about 2-3" to get it done. I also had to disconnect the reconnect the tach cable to do this. Figure on doing both those nasty jobs to get your hand up there to connect it. Take your time, visualize what your hand is doing and take frequent stretch breaks so as not to kill your back. Then again, I am 5'-6" so it was a little easier for me.
Fran
When I replaced the speakers in my 73, I had to lower the steering column slightly and pulled the dash out about 2-3" to get it done. I also had to disconnect the reconnect the tach cable to do this. Figure on doing both those nasty jobs to get your hand up there to connect it. Take your time, visualize what your hand is doing and take frequent stretch breaks so as not to kill your back. Then again, I am 5'-6" so it was a little easier for me.
Fran
Thanks Fran,
I might give it one more go before I put my seats back in. I'm might need to get behind the dash to check wiring if my seatbelt warning system doesn't function once I get the belts. They should be here in a couple days. I appreciate your encouragement. I thought replacing all the original ignition shielding on the car was the worst. This has that beat by a mile.
Jimmy
You could try to just drop the backside of the column by removing the two large bolts that hold it under the dash and then remove the jamb and top screws. The issue is that the weight of the pad puts undo pressure on the center of the dash pad and they are prone to crack in the middle.
Tricks that'll help you would be to disconnect the tach cable from the distributor and it will pull throught the dash. You can unclip the speedo cable too..
Here is a detailed sheet on how to remove the left pad and it's really not that hard of a job.
Hi T1,
Here's a picture from my 71.
It's a sharp right angle bend even without the dash brace.
Can you release the cable from the bottom bracket and see if the reset works with less bend?
Also a picture of the reset mechanism. Can you get any sense that the gear on the cable is at least trying to engage the gear on the trip odometer?
Regards,
Alan
Hi Alan,
Thanks for the reply and great as always pictures.
Yes, I did remove the cable from the lower bracket. I straightened it out as much as I possible could. I removed the black cap so as not to strip it out because I just bought it new. My original was split. I can easily push up on it as required to reset, but when I try to turn it, it feels like it's winding up but I can't feel anything moving up top. The numbers don't seem to move even a little. I even held the the brass fitting with a wrench and clipped vise grips on the inner cable and tried to turn it, but got the same results. As stated above it does keep track of miles driven. I'm just afraid to keep messing with it, that I'm going to damage my speedo. Plan on having it judged in June, but about to let this go.
BTW, thanks again for the flocking article.
Regards, Jim