This is on my 77 with a/c and auto if it makes a difference. I have a small leak starting and am curious if it's worth having my original rad re-cored or if I should opt for the local auto parts replacement. My fear comes from putting a replacement one in my jeep a few years ago that was supposed to fit but was closer to kinda fit. I'd prefer not to go that hassle again. What have you guys done or what would you suggest. Thanks

 

Yes. You could possibly have your original cleaned and repaired without a complete recore.

 

Small leaks are easily fixed, take it to a well known shop and keep it original. Aftermarket is a gamble on quality.

 

I think always repair if possible then get one from someplace like DeWitts Radiators Not local parts store on this I also had problem on my Ford with parts store China radiator

 

Certainly the way to go if at all possible.

 

I will agree with the general consensus. Repair it ...BUT...a ot of it will depend on the condition of the tanks where they attach to the core. In some cases they can be to the point of NOT being able to be re-attached...thus causing for a new radiator to be installed.

MAKE SURE that when you remove it that you pay careful attention to the foam seals between the radiator and the radiator support. It is wise to replace these seals if they crumble away.

AND....I also inspect the rubber automatic transmission hoses that join the fittings in the radiator and the steel lines mounted on the frame. I DO NOT use regular rubber hose for fuel or PCV. I use the correct automatic transmission hose which has a LOT more strength to it. 3/8" I.D. hose is what you will need....if needed.

DUB

 

Thanks guys for the input. The local radiator shop I just found out is no more so it is looking like I will end up replacing it. I see a ton of options on ebay most being aluminum or some with plastic tanks. Anybody tried one of these and if so were there any fitment issues?

Dub, along with the foam seals, do the rubber mounting pads go bad also. Id rather get all the pieces needed before I start

 

If you want to get your radiator repaired, do an Internet search as there are most likely still some radiator repair shops within an hour drive.
I would go that route, before purchasing an aftermarket made in China one.

 

I used a Champion 3 core for my 74 2 years ago and so far no problems

 

I may be somewhat partial

http://www.dewitts.com/collections/c...num-radiator-1

 

[QUOTE=Tom DeWitt;1592025268]I may be somewhat partial

http://www.dewitts.com/collections/c...num-radiator-1[/QUOTE


Wow, that is very nice. Now do you have any of those for poor guys with old leaky radiators. I guess its time to go turn in some soda cans, NY has this dumb deposit thing that doesnt work as they are constantly thrown out in our front yard.

 

I KNOW that the current radiators have the plastic tanks on them...and they are fine ...but in time they do split and fail...but due to the design of the aluminum core...replacing a tank and seal is not that hard for a radiator shop with the correct equipment to do so.

SO..as previously mentioned....I would look and see if there is a radiator shop within a reasonable drive and have them check it out. That way you are not worried about it fitting correctly.

Getting a cooper/brass radiator from the major Corvette suppliers is also an option.

Getting an aluminum radiator is also an option. Regardless of whose aluminum radiator you choose to go with...if you go that route. PAY VERY CAREFUL ATTENTION to how you original radiator fit. And LOOK closely at the upper mount brackets and how well they fit to the top of the tanks....and the clearance of these mounts to the upper radiator hose fitting coming out of the tank. This way...when you go and install the new radiator..you can check to make sure that these mounts are not DANGEROUSLY close to any aluminum of the radiator and will cause for it to get damaged and the radiator to leak.

I have encountered the top left radiator mount being REALLY CLOSE to the tube for the upper radiator hose when the upper mount was trying to be installed. All it would have taken a few months of driving and the radiator would have been damaged. This 'problem' was corrected by the manufacturer....BUT when I install aluminum radiators ....I am SUPER PICKY that they have to be well protected and insulated so they do not get scuffed on and fail.

AS for the upper and lower rubber insulators that secure the tanks to the core support...YES...you can replace them if they are showing signs of excessive wear.

IF you do go with an aluminum radiator. I would pull the block drains and drain the block and system...fill it and add a radiator flush and flush it out BEFORE you remove the original radiator. Do all you cleaning and flushing and filling and draining so the water coming out of the radiator and engine block is clean water. This is so when you go and put a new aluminum radiator in...you will either use fresh pre-mixed coolant if you choose to do that....or if you like to mix your own.,.,..you SHOULD use nothing but DISTILLED WATER with your coolant concentrate. Tap water and or well water SHOULD NOT be used due to the dissimilar metals you have in the system.

Make not mistake about it...if you do a coolant flush and do not remove the block drains (one on each side of the engine block)....you have basically just wasted your time...and money....because simply draining the radiator WILL NOT get the coolant and crud out of the engine block....just in case you were wondering if you could do that and save time.

DUB

 

I just had my radiator repaired for just $70. I was leaning towards a DeWitt's and still very much want one, I just couldn't come up with the funds at the time.

 

Recently installed a Champion two core on a 76'.....fit great and cools well.
Make sure you buy new rubber for the mounts....top and bottom.....
Got it for $140 in an E-bay open box buy it now sale.
It was too cheap not to try!

Jebby

 

Danh77

I had the same issue with my stock copper radiator, it had developed some small leaks and needed to be repaired and cleaned. This was about seven years ago now, they wanted 350$ dollars at the time to repair it- with NO warranty. I just couldn't justify it and went with a DeWitts aluminum and have been very happy with the results. Engine runs nice and cool and the build quality is spot on. I know they are expensive but well worth the price. It fits perfectly too. Do what I did and take that old radiator out and store it for future and replace it with a quality Aluminum one.

 

The radiator on a vette is a pain in the butt to get out. If you take it out to repair it just get a new one. You repair an old one and the next weak link will go and you will be pulling it again. I have a champion in mine and works fine. No need to spend $500 on a new one when a $250 will do the same job, and it does.

 

Dan, don't know why but I cant send the receipt. It is from "ChampionRadiators,com"