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So going through my new 1969 and one of the to-do's is to fix the automatic transmission leak. It was pretty bad. So I warmed the car up and tightened the bolts pretty good making sure not to over-tighten them.
Now I swear the leak is worse. Maybe I did over-tighten them.
I would like to fix this ONCE so what's the best solution to approach this? Cork, Fel-Pro, RTV? A certain brand or type?
Thanks Steve
Last edited by 72and86; Apr 18, 2016 at 01:11 AM.
Reason: sp
So going through my new 1969 and one of the to-do's is to fix the automatic transmission leak. It was pretty bad. So I warmed the car up and tightened the bolts pretty good making sure not to over-tighten them.
Now I swear the leak is worse. Maybe I did over-tighten them.
I would like to fix this ONCE so what's the best solution to approach this? Cork, Fel-Pro, RTV? A certain brand or type?
Thanks Steve
I finally took my 77 to a transmission shop last week and they replaced all my gaskets and looked it over. Finally it is dry under the car. Recommend taking it to a trans shop and save yourself some grief... Good luck
I finally took my 77 to a transmission shop last week and they replaced all my gaskets and looked it over. Finally it is dry under the car. Recommend taking it to a trans shop and save yourself some grief... Good luck
yes..a reliable transmission shop can replace filter..fluid.. reseal..adjust and get all so it not only functions but has no drips..worth the 300+ bucks to have it done right..Tranny will need to be dropped so have them check and redo the seals front & rear..MIGHT AS WELL CHECK THE u joints and drive shaft while you are at it..
Grandpa used to tell us boys.."if you don't take the time and spend the money to do it right..
WHEN do you think you'll have either to do it properly and do it again..?Jim
From: PHOENIX, AZ Yes, it's true. You are a good woman. Then again, you may be the Antichrist.
Originally Posted by 72and86
So going through my new 1969 and one of the to-do's is to fix the automatic transmission leak. It was pretty bad. So I warmed the car up and tightened the bolts pretty good making sure not to over-tighten them.
Now I swear the leak is worse. Maybe I did over-tighten them.
I would like to fix this ONCE so what's the best solution to approach this? Cork, Fel-Pro, RTV? A certain brand or type?
Thanks Steve
I replaced the pan gasket on my TH400 a couple months ago. I'm not a fan of cork gaskets, so I used a rubber Fel-Pro with a very thin coat of gasket sealer. The pan hasn't leaked a drop since. Trouble is, now there's a drip on the end of the rod for the shift lever.
Oh well. That's a battle for another day. Good luck!
If you DIY it, make certain that you tap/flatten any distortions on the face of the sheet metal pan rails. These usually get dimpled at the bolt hole areas. The pan must be flat if you want it to seal. The new trans filter kit will have a solid rubber seal in it. You can use it, or you can purchase a Fel-Pro composition (rubber AND cork) gasket for the pan.
With either, a light smear of Permatex gasket sealer (NOT silicone sealant ) on both sides of the gasket would be wise.
Flatten pan rails; wipe off pan and trans gasket surfaces, THEN wipe them again with lacquer thinner to get all oil off of them; put Permatex on one side of gasket and place that side on the trans pan; put Permatex on the other side of the gasket; install pan by first turning in bolts only finger-tight; then snug all bolts with small socket wrench; now, tighten all bolts to 1/2 of specified torque; finally, tighten the bolts to rated torque. You MUST do these steps if you want the gasket to seal.
Same thing happened to me on my 72 TH400. I dropped the pan and cleaned the gasket surface with a fine scrubbing pad. Bought a tube of Permatex sealant (pep boys) made for transmissions. I sealed both sides of the rubber gasket and put the pan back together with the pan bolts hand tight. I let it dry over night and tightened the bolts nice and snug. Don't over torque the bolts where the gasket will squeeze out the sides. Filled with new fluid and no leaks. Oh, and I applied a little of the blue locktight since these bolts have a tendency of loosening up or backing out.
I had the same problem with my 78 Pace Car. A small dripping leak from the pan area. I figured that the PO of my car might have tightened the pan bolts too much, distorting them at the bolt holes. Sure enough, that had happened. Instead of trying to flatten the steel pan, I bought a cast aluminum finned pan with a drain plug and installed that along with a new filter and a FelPro gasket. Problem solved, no further leaks! Besides, the aluminum pan looks a lot better than the stock pan, helps with cooling because of the fins, and has the added advantage of a drain plug.
Dumb question: is there a drain plug for trans fluid or is it just all slop down when I remove the pan?
Yeaa...your going to make a mess.
Loosen all the bolts, then slowly remove some of them to tilt the pan to get it to drain. Keep loosening and/or removing bolts until enough fluid is out to remove pan.
You can buy a bolt-in drain plug at NAPA. Just drill a hole in the pan and put it in. Just make sure that the drian plug is at a fairly low area of the pan AND that the stuff on the inside does not interfere with any of the valve body components. It won't allow you to drain all of the oil out; but it will let you drain over half of it, so that the rest won't slosh out when you remove the pan. And, it's only a few buck$ !!
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