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There's an upper and a lower piece. The upper is what you broke. It is only pressed into the block about an inch or a little more. I did the same thing once, and here's what I did. Results may vary..
I used a small sharp punch to slightly roll the top edge of the tube inwards toward the center, then screwed a sheet metal screw into it that fit very snug. Then used a small slide hammer to pull up the screw and the tube came with it. If you have any freeze spray like they use in electronics, if you spray the inside of the tube it will contract a little and make it easier.
If you pull the pan, you'll of course have to drain the oil, pull the pan, probably replace the gasket and it will only get you to the bottom piece of the tube. If you get that out, you'll still have to find something exactly the right size to tap up into the hole to knock the upper remnant out.
There's an upper and a lower piece. The upper is what you broke. It is only pressed into the block about an inch or a little more. I did the same thing once, and here's what I did. Results may vary..
I used a small sharp punch to slightly roll the top edge of the tube inwards toward the center, then screwed a sheet metal screw into it that fit very snug. Then used a small slide hammer to pull up the screw and the tube came with it. If you have any freeze spray like they use in electronics, if you spray the inside of the tube it will contract a little and make it easier.
If you pull the pan, you'll of course have to drain the oil, pull the pan, probably replace the gasket and it will only get you to the bottom piece of the tube. If you get that out, you'll still have to find something exactly the right size to tap up into the hole to knock the upper remnant out.
Thanks .. I'm going to try that..
I just put fresh oil into the engine so I'm certainly not excited about taking off the oil pan.
There's an upper and a lower piece. The upper is what you broke. It is only pressed into the block about an inch or a little more. I did the same thing once, and here's what I did. Results may vary..
I used a small sharp punch to slightly roll the top edge of the tube inwards toward the center, then screwed a sheet metal screw into it that fit very snug. Then used a small slide hammer to pull up the screw and the tube came with it. If you have any freeze spray like they use in electronics, if you spray the inside of the tube it will contract a little and make it easier.
If you pull the pan, you'll of course have to drain the oil, pull the pan, probably replace the gasket and it will only get you to the bottom piece of the tube. If you get that out, you'll still have to find something exactly the right size to tap up into the hole to knock the upper remnant out.
How did you interface the slide hammer to the screw head?
It slid down over the screw head and then if you pulled it to the side, one of the slots would catch the screw. You could always put the screw through a large washer, then through the slot in the hammer attachment, then into the broken tube.
It slid down over the screw head and then if you pulled it to the side, one of the slots would catch the screw. You could always put the screw through a large washer, then through the slot in the hammer attachment, then into the broken tube.
OK .. Thanks .. Off to Harbor Freight to purchase a small slide hammer.
Find a bolt (either English or Metric threaded) that will screw into the remaining piece in the block. Once you get a bolt to dig in and bite into the metal, you can grab onto the bolt and pull the piece out. If the bolt pulls out of the tube, put it back in, then use a pair of pliers to turn the bolt CW while pulling it out. It should work it's way out with either method.
I would not advise using a tap to dig into the tubing. It will create chips which could cause other problems. Using a bolt will deform the inside of the tubing to match the threads, rather than to cut chips.
Find a bolt (either English or Metric threaded) that will screw into the remaining piece in the block. Once you get a bolt to dig in and bite into the metal, you can grab onto the bolt and pull the piece out. If the bolt pulls out of the tube, put it back in, then use a pair of pliers to turn the bolt CW while pulling it out. It should work it's way out with either method.
I would not advise using a tap to dig into the tubing. It will create chips which could cause other problems. Using a bolt will deform the inside of the tubing to match the threads, rather than to cut chips.
OK thanks.. I'm going to try that.. I already tried a 1/2 in lag bolt..too big .. trying to find a 7/16 size .. whoops..apparently a hard size to find..
Would a standard thread screw be able to dig into the remaining piece?
How did you break off your dip stick?I'm just super curious??
The dip stick was interfering with the master cylinder when I took it out to check my oil level.... soooo I readjusted the tube .. It didn't take much to break off so I suspect it was partially damaged prior to that.
The tube has a high stress point by virtue of the flare out at the interface to the engine... The breaking off of the tube flush to the engine is very common ( as I learned by searching the internet).. I still feel stupid though.
I broke mine trying to get the dipstick out around the m/c, too. (p/b)
Can you take something like an ice pick and tap it between the wall and the tube remnant to make a place you can grab it with needle nose pliers or needle nose vice grips?
04-18-2016, 03:41 PM
Don't Laugh
