With these 2 Vettes about equal in value (Hagerty has the BB coupe slightly higher), which C3 would you choose? I would go with the Convertible. I was wondering what other CF members prefer?

Thank you for you opinion!

 

I am happy you already said convertible, so doesnt matter to you what others like, It's far easier to swap a bb into a car that got stuck with a sb than to convert a coupe to a convertible, so I go with the convertible, if it had a stick I might not even swap to a bb too soon...

 

There will be lots of opinions, but go with the one that you like. 40 years ago I was looking for a SB Coupe, but settled for BB Convertible. I should have kept looking.

 

I agree, its a personal thing. I take it you are being sarcastic with your last sentence.

 

I've been more of a big block guy since the age of 18 or so, but in this case, I'd vote for the Ragtop.

 

So long as you're asking for opinions, I'd take a coupe any day over a convertible. Had a convertible once, didn't care for it at all. I prefer the look of the coupe roof line and added rigidity. I'm a BB person as well.

My opinions. Go with what YOU prefer, it's your car.

 

There is no way a base 427/390 coupe is equal in value to a base 350/300hp convertible (assuming everything being equal and original) The big block will always bring more money if that is your concern. There are small block cars asking big block money and they are not selling. Nor will they anytime soon. Just look at the for sale section on this forum.
Hagertys value guide is not very accurate and lacks the details that seperate valuable cars from run of the mill. Many small details can make a big difference.

I prefer convertible over coupe but that has nothing to do with comparative value. I would prefer a small block vert but would not pay big block coupe prices for it.

 

This is an easy call for me as I like coupes more than convertibles. YMMV

 

Hagerty is just a guide, nothing more. But I feel it is the most realistic price guide out there. Their prices come from actual sales: auctions, dealers, and private party. A "book" or a price guide has yet to buy a car and never will. Its all about what some one is willing to pay, and yes, small details can make a big difference. Asking prices and actual sale prices can vary dramatically. Reminds me of an old Indian saying, "A Pony is worth somewhere between what seller is asking and what the buyer is willing to pay."

 

X2
I've never been able to get the convertible top to close properly around the side window

 

I'm a coupe fan. Never liked messing with the rag tops and love the look of the coupes. As for the engines, big blocks are a plus but you can't go wrong with an aggressive small block, i.e.. the L79, L46, and LT-1.
I also agree that the base big block will fetch more than a base small block no matter what the body style.

 

I'd take the convertible over a coupe.

 

Sarcastic? No, I'm serious. In 1975, I went from a '69 350/350 4 speed Coupe to a '71 LS5 4 speed Convertible/Hardtop. 40 plus years later, I sincerely wish I'd kept looking for the SB 4 speed Coupe, just like Alan's.

Of course as they say, YMMV.

 

There's a reason that you'll pay a premium for a convertible, same as there's a reason you'll pay a premium for a big block car, they're more in demand.

 

I agree with Ed as I am a Big Block coupe guy and those value guides don't tell the whole story. My belief is always,whether coupe or vert, a no nonsense umollested original with factory docs and no bs,does and will always bring the money.

 

That's exactly it JR. I don't believe they distinguish enough between an umolested car and one with all replacement parts. Replacing a correct rochester in place of a replacement carb on an early C3 is a $1000 (give or take), maybe a little less with an alternator and maybe a little less for a starter if originality is what you are into.

Is Hagartys a starting point for some understand? Yes. But its not something to be used as a GUIDE. I know it sounds ridiculous but the only way to be on top of prices is to look for yourself what sells for how much and why.

They may claim they take real world sale prices but unless you know why someone paid $100k for one 69 435hp but then another sells for $55k on the same day then your value guide is useless. Cars my LOOK the same and both might even have the original drive train but many factors can dramatically change value. Low ownership, real docs, original equipment like vac relays, original dated tower clamps, water pump, master cylinder, radiator all the little things that make a big difference.

The only way to get familiar with that kind of thing is by looking all the time. And current market prices can seem to change quickly. What was accurate 6 months ago my be totally off today.

They lump too much together. It's a source, but should be taken with a grain of salt. NADA? That's another story entirely. They seem to add 50% mark up on everything.

Just my useless opinion (also to be taken with a grain of salt....)

 

You still have the '71 BB convert?

 

I think your opinion is useful, not useless. I called Hagerty and spoke with someone in the value guide dept. My first question was, are the prices for cars with matching numbers motors? He replied "no" not necessarily. Originality is not emphasized as it should be, along with documentation. He stressed, its just a guide, not to be taken as absolute. There are so many variables, that to construct a totally accurate price guide that reflects all the variables is impossible. You see what looks like 2 nearly identical cars go through BJ or Mecum auctions on TV, one brings $80K and the next one brings $45K If you could could inspect those cars in person, you would see the quality difference in the restoration justifying the price difference, but on TV they look nearly identical.

 

Hagerty breaks their pricing into 4 tiers. I believe many of the 'originals' you describe would fall into class 3 at the low end, maybe class 1 if they are in nearly perfect condition. Cars falling into this category are very rare, hence the high price tag, best left for museums, not drivers. Maybe Hagerty could expand on their description of what cars fit this class, requiring a minimal amount of original parts, documentation, etc. I view each class as an average.

Condition is important regardless of originality, another factor which will affect price. Could be the $100K 69 was in considerably better condition than the $55K version. It may also be there was a buyer who badly wanted that particular 69 which sold for $100K, no other buyers for the remaining cars left willing to pay as much.

From what I recall Hagerty classifies daily drivers as class 4. Few if any collectors or investors would even look at these cars. Buyers of class 4 Corvettes may not care about originality?

I agree 100%, a buyer should do their homework, not rely on opinions of others which will often be quite biased either way. A buyer needs to decide what they want out of the car, investment, originality, or driver. From there look at sales prices for the cars which fit what they're looking for. Problem is there may not be much data to work with depending on what the buyer is looking for. Unless the sales data is accompanied by lots of photos and documentation, it may be tough to may valid comparisons.

Other than a rough guide for pricing I look at Hagerty's charts for trends in sales prices. I believe they do have a database of prices to work with even if they don't break them down by attributes which are most important to some. Their charts seem to show a somewhat flat trajectory in sales prices, contrary to what I often hear. Probably due to averaging which downplays the rare high $ sales of truly rare cars.

 

Yes....

It's a nice knick knack for the garage.