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Looks like the caulk / sealant is dried up and cracking. I`d try to dig as much out as I could, and put some new sealant in there. Or at the very least, try to apply some strip caulk to fill up the gaps.
I`d be more worried about what appears to be rust running down from inside the windshield pillar though.
Hi all
That ugly joint above the door hinge any thoughts on the best way to deal with it?
If you have access to a 5 gallon or bigger compressor / I went to Harbor freight and bought a small media blaster that uses soda which they sell also and tape off with fairly heavy plastic and it will do a great job .the soda washed up easily
Hi c,
When the body was assembled at St.Louis there was bond material and several types of sealer used in that area.
It seems there was very little concern about the finished appearance.
There's not a lot to be done now that doesn't end up involving painting the jamb.
Some people remove all the exposed bond 'ooze' and sealer and the reapply it more neatly and repaint.
The issue of the cause of the rust stain 'might' become clearer too after cleaning up the jamb.
Regards,
Alan
These pictures show the additional weatherstrip 'gutter' that later cars don't have.
alan
it would be more useful if you just wrote a book with your pics,explaining everything you did,,or start a shop and had 5-10 employees to do our cars right
Hi d,
The problem is that "right" takes time and skill, and time and skill take money, so doing a knockout restoration can cost $125,000 even for a car that will be worth $45,000.
When you're paying someone to do the restoration it gets to the point that it's called 'finished', but if you're doing it yourself the pit of "it can always be prettier, better, more accurate" is easy to fall into…and I've found that pit to be VERY deep.
Regards,
Alan
Hi d,
The problem is that "right" takes time and skill, and time and skill take money, so doing a knockout restoration can cost $125,000 even for a car that will be worth $45,000.
When you're paying someone to do the restoration it gets to the point that it's called 'finished', but if you're doing it yourself the pit of "it can always be prettier, better, more accurate" is easy to fall into…and I've found that pit to be VERY deep.
Regards,
Alan
Alan I am headed up to New York then To Boston this week are you any where near there ?
Wes
and once again alan posts pictures that while so stunning they make me all a tingle they also show just how very sad my car is....I will call it motivation to go work on my car...but on the op's cars mine looked like that not as bad and had all kinds of rust hiding....
I was just thinking the same thing, rear body mounts. Mine are shot and the gap looks to be the result of it, along with a wider gap at the top of the fender and door.
I'll get to it maybe this winter, maybe..
Bats....How were the body mount areas on your car....?
Brian
I think I have pictures over in the bats build thread,
The drivers side on my car were really good, the passenger side
The number 2 was saved the hole was rusted a bit larger, and right behind it down the rail was a hole about like a 1/2 dollar tommy welded up,
the left number 3 bird cage lol when he unbolted it to get the body off he didn't look close didn't think it was bad when he went to install the bushing ( I went with special ones same size as aluminum but poly ) the # 3 fell apart, I got a replacement repair part from Willcox, Thanks again and tommy welded that in,
My car had been messed with in the early days it had that 73 style front clip and the area where the op posted on mine looked a lot like that, all cracked and rust colored lines and fall out, my area at the bottom corners of the wind screen are also rusty, this time drivers side is rusted with a hole about 1/2 " x 2" the passenger is thankfully just surface, fingers crossed but doesn't look like it is going up the pillars or around the top of the ws frame.
As on my old 69 frame the rear passenger kick up was rusted with a hole about 1/2 " x 2-3"
Hi d,
The problem is that "right" takes time and skill, and time and skill take money, so doing a knockout restoration can cost $125,000 even for a car that will be worth $45,000.
When you're paying someone to do the restoration it gets to the point that it's called 'finished', but if you're doing it yourself the pit of "it can always be prettier, better, more accurate" is easy to fall into…and I've found that pit to be VERY deep.
Regards,
Alan
Yep. When I started, a friend (with 40+yrs experience) told me, "You're going to find out what your definition of 'good enough' is."
It's funny, I knew exactly what you were talking about before I clicked on the thread. I'm as we speak prepping my 1970 for paint and wondered why it was such a mess in there. Thankfully I have the time to nitpick until it looks as good as the red car above and I think I'm there in primer.
05-06-2016, 09:47 PM
The Corvette's ugly armpit how can I tidy it up?
and tommy welded that in,
