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does the space between the rear tire and body look like theres to much the kit came with four shims for each mount and i used all four at each mount, and should the frame be showing that much, hope its right and thanks for looking,carl
does the space between the rear tire and body look like theres to much the kit came with four shims for each mount and i used all four at each mount, and should the frame be showing that much, hope its right and thanks for looking,carl
They were just talking about this a couple big minds on it alan and dub, perhaps it was in the doorgunners 68 build thread,
Seems that 4 shims is the starting point but you will likely have different numbers even perhaps none on a mount, I hired my 69 body swapped and even though the guy was a great body man I fear he 1/2 assed the shimming...
Last edited by The13Bats; May 31, 2016 at 09:21 PM.
Reason: removed repost of same picture
There are different length spring bolts available to change the riding height and gap at the rear tire. The bolts go through the ends of the rear spring . The new replacement spring that came with my project car when I bought it had way too much arch which made the rear sit extremely high and the different bolts that I bought brought it back to a good height.
There are different length spring bolts available to change the riding height and gap at the rear tire. The bolts go through the ends of the rear spring . The new replacement spring that came with my project car when I bought it had way too much arch which made the rear sit extremely high and the different bolts that I bought brought it back to a good height.
ooh yeah, on mine that donor chassis has that vb aftermarket stuff the rear was all catty wompus, I started messing with it and a little goes a long way
I would first install the interior/front end and let it settle before I started to adjust anything. As I can not see what is inside but you also have a lot of weight missing on your front end.
Once all the body is on and had some time to settle then I would start adjusting the height. My rear dropped over 2" the last time I had the body on my frame.
Rookie here: I wouldn't worry about the tire/fender gap now....as the suspension settles down and the car is moved in/out of the garage/gas tank is filled/spare tire is bolted in place, the gap will get smaller..........
and if it still is too much gap-----like the other members said----you then can adjust the height (I really doubt that body shims are causing it to sit that high)
Carl - You got the body on! TREMENDOUS!! It looks great! Don't know how long it has been off or how long you have been on this, but congrats are due no matter what. Time to have a party! I would tend to agree with the others to not worry too much about the gap at this point. I will be doing the same thing as you, so please keep posting and show lots of pix! Especially when you get the front clip on! Keep up the good work!
I think what is being missed is would 4 shims on each mount likely be the correct adjustment?
I know mine came with 1 shim per mount. No idea what was the norm is. Also did they differ per year? I will put the same number of shims that it came with. It is a good point and OP might want to start with what it came with.
I know mine came with 1 shim per mount. No idea what was the norm is. Also did they differ per year? I will put the same number of shims that it came with. It is a good point and OP might want to start with what it came with.
DG where is that thread where alan posted the uber cool pictures of the marks on the frames for how many shims they needed, it varied car to car.
I was swapping from a 69 frame to a 68 frame and tommy said he didn't have any issues shimming mine, the numbers are not even all around, the thing like I was saying is that that time tommy was slacking and I hope he did it good, the gaps in the doors and hatch seemed the same and the doors opened and closed the same perhaps better, my drivers door has some silly thing where when you close it and it acts like it is bouncing back and only gets to that first latch position if you do not slam it really hard.
Well that is a major start, how ever as a student of Dub (RVZIO69Restore) you need to do a few more things as you probably know. To answer your question, don't need to worry about the height just yet. To get the shims closer add the doors, and the front clip. Door seams and clip alignment will all cause change. Get all the parts on the car and then you can start the shim process. There are many pictures on my post which makes it easier to follow rather then me picking different shots. I am sure Dub can add more and if you follow his guide lines you won't go wrong. Just saying it's your car so it's your choice. He really is full of knowledge since he does it for a living. You can't go wrong
Good Luck and take your time.
RVZIO
I think what is being missed is would 4 shims on each mount likely be the correct adjustment?
I've never installed a body where the same amount of shims were used . They are all different when it comes to alignment of the body for proper door closure etc. And you are correct , the ride height will change when all of the weight is back with the car so I wouldn't be too concerned at this point about it sitting a little high.
thanks guys the doors shuts and open pretty good so i will leave it as is for now and i got this car for a retirement project in spring of 2013 and just retired in january 2015, i will check on the shiming at a later date thanks again for all the input, carl
thanks guys the doors shuts and open pretty good so i will leave it as is for now and i got this car for a retirement project in spring of 2013 and just retired in january 2015, i will check on the shiming at a later date thanks again for all the input, carl
Hi Carl, enjoy your retirement and your project. Although they are a headache sometimes they are still very rewarding and you can really learn a lot. Keep the questions and pictures coming.
Good Luck!
RVZIO
As I understand it,you count the number of shims that were used at the factory when the body is lifted off and replace that same number when the body is re-mounted onto the chassis.My 74 had no shims on any of the mounts,therefore I just mounted the body straight back onto the frame.
I've never installed a body where the same amount of shims were used . They are all different when it comes to alignment of the body for proper door closure etc. And you are correct , the ride height will change when all of the weight is back with the car so I wouldn't be too concerned at this point about it sitting a little high.
The ride height is moot and yet seems to be the thing everyone is all epic about, and my point was the chance of all the shim count being the same is like hitting a lotto,
and at least the doors need to be in place,
My 69 body was dropped on a 68 donor chassis so what shim count the factory did is out the window tommy had to start from scratch,
The ride height is moot and yet seems to be the thing everyone is all epic about, and my point was the chance of all the shim count being the same is like hitting a lotto,
and at least the doors need to be in place,
My 69 body was dropped on a 68 donor chassis so what shim count the factory did is out the window tommy had to start from scratch,
Or like in my case the shims had rotted and were gone on some of the locations. At that point like you mention with the frames it is a moot point and you go from there.
RVZIO
I pulled the body up again and put three shims on mounts two and three both sides and number four was only room for spacer and number one had four torqued to 40 ft lb doors shut and opens pretty good,thanks again for all the input. carl