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I started attempting to test-fit the replacement clip on my '68 last night. Yikes. It's a little hard to see with the pics, but I'll try to show the problem as best I can.
First, I started by trying to get everything at the rear of the clip to line up (bonding strip at the rear edge, plenum, door edge at least somewhat close). The problem was that the only way to do that was to get the nose ridiculously high. The top of the fender is almost belt-height. And putting the inner fenders about where they should be means the holes to the radiator surround are off by a bunch.
If I lower the nose to a more reasonable height, though, this is what I get at the rear.
From the firewall back, putting the nose pointing at the sky looks right. The plenum extension fits nicely, the top and bottom edges line up (sort of - this needs some tweaking but it's close) and the gills appear level. But the nose of the car looks ridiculous. The pictures don't do the "wrongness" justice...
As I said, this was a first attempt because I had an hour and extra pair of hands to help me. But I still don't see what I'm missing. Ideas?
I started attempting to test-fit the replacement clip on my '68 last night. Yikes. It's a little hard to see with the pics, but I'll try to show the problem as best I can.
First, I started by trying to get everything at the rear of the clip to line up (bonding strip at the rear edge, plenum, door edge at least somewhat close). The problem was that the only way to do that was to get the nose ridiculously high. The top of the fender is almost belt-height. And putting the inner fenders about where they should be means the holes to the radiator surround are off by a bunch.
If I lower the nose to a more reasonable height, though, this is what I get at the rear.
From the firewall back, putting the nose pointing at the sky looks right. The plenum extension fits nicely, the top and bottom edges line up (sort of - this needs some tweaking but it's close) and the gills appear level. But the nose of the car looks ridiculous. The pictures don't do the "wrongness" justice...
As I said, this was a first attempt because I had an hour and extra pair of hands to help me. But I still don't see what I'm missing. Ideas?
Is horse collar bolted to cross support?are frame to body aluminum pads in place?
Is horse collar bolted to cross support?are frame to body aluminum pads in place?
I don't have the front bumper support in yet. I'm just using a jack on the nose reinforcement to play with the positioning. So far, this is a quickie first attempt to see what problems I'm going to run into. That support would be a good one, though, to help me see where the front crossmember is in relation to the body.
I have new body mount bushings in, but am not sure if the shims are correct.
At this point nothing is fully attached since I'm having to start from scratch on every body gap on the car. The upside to that approach is that I should be able to make whatever adjustments I need. But there's such a thing as too many degrees of freedom...
I don't have the front bumper support in yet. I'm just using a jack on the nose reinforcement to play with the positioning. So far, this is a quickie first attempt to see what problems I'm going to run into. That support would be a good one, though, to help me see where the front crossmember is in relation to the body.
I have new body mount bushings in, but am not sure if the shims are correct.
At this point nothing is fully attached since I'm having to start from scratch on every body gap on the car. The upside to that approach is that I should be able to make whatever adjustments I need. But there's such a thing as too many degrees of freedom...
Ok this little tab lines up with the tab on the body you can get a little movement wit loose side frame bolts
I don't have the front bumper support in yet. I'm just using a jack on the nose reinforcement to play with the positioning. So far, this is a quickie first attempt to see what problems I'm going to run into. That support would be a good one, though, to help me see where the front crossmember is in relation to the body.
I have new body mount bushings in, but am not sure if the shims are correct.
At this point nothing is fully attached since I'm having to start from scratch on every body gap on the car. The upside to that approach is that I should be able to make whatever adjustments I need. But there's such a thing as too many degrees of freedom...
You must set the front bumper and then set the clip to fit. There are some adjustments that can be made with the supports and horse collar, but it has to be "close". Then at the rear, set the clip to the wiper mechanism(if you have a movable wiper door), or set the clip high enough so that the wiper arms have room to retract without hitting the hood. Then use the splash shields to set the bottom of the flank areas. You'll have that clip on and off a dozen times before you bond it. To trim the clip if it's too long, put a piece of masking tape 1 (or 2) inches rearward of the door edge. Then scribe a line on the clip 1 1/8 (or 2 1/8) inches forward using the edge of the tape as a reference point. Also use at least two shims under the hinge-you can always raise it, but without any shims it can't be lowered. This is not a one day project!
Agree on the above... the "horse collar", and radiator support should be in. You should also have the hood bolted in when fitting the clip. I used paint sticks and clamps when trying to test fit mine. This helps hold it in place, but is quickly & easily adjustible. Looking in the picture below, you can see 2 clamps at the bottom, behind the wheel well, and one at the top of the fender near the windshield.
Put your bolts in the front brackets, but leave them loose. There is also some adjustment in the frame extentions and front cross member that will affect the radiator support.
Mine was easier to install also, because the wheel wells were still attatched to the front clip when it came off the "donor" car, so it all went on in one piece.
BUT.... I still had to fit it 3 times before we got it right, and glued it.
OLDGTO - To piggy back off this thread a bit.. I also am putting a clip on that still has the inner wells and everything attached. What angle / approach did you use to slide the clip on? The few times I have test fitted, it has been the biggest pain. I can't imagine trying to do it with limited time and bonding agent applied. One time I got it on easy with the front wheels on, the next time I had to take the front wheels off and couldn't figure out how I had managed to get it on the last time. It seems like the inner fender wells are always interfering with the upper a-arms, or at an angle to clear them, the widest part of the firewall is flexing the lower end of the clip too far out to safely slide it down and on.
There has got to be an easier technique then how I've been struggling.
OLDGTO - To piggy back off this thread a bit.. I also am putting a clip on that still has the inner wells and everything attached. What angle / approach did you use to slide the clip on? The few times I have test fitted, it has been the biggest pain. I can't imagine trying to do it with limited time and bonding agent applied. One time I got it on easy with the front wheels on, the next time I had to take the front wheels off and couldn't figure out how I had managed to get it on the last time. It seems like the inner fender wells are always interfering with the upper a-arms, or at an angle to clear them, the widest part of the firewall is flexing the lower end of the clip too far out to safely slide it down and on.
There has got to be an easier technique then how I've been struggling.
E, do you have the core support mounted along with you side brackets on the clip? Take a look at my thread it may help.
add fiberglass to the front fenders for the door lines, fit the front clip as tight as you can to the doors
(the doors should already be lined up to the rear quarters and the bottom.)
after clip is glued in place go back and finalize the front fender door gaps.
following the door edges, enlarge your gap to your preference, a paint stick and sand paper give you a nice gap.
also be sure to check your side to side gap, before gluing.