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Hi Ben,
Originally your car had 2 horns.
The picture shows only one because 71 cars had only one horn.
The second horn was located opposite the one shown when two horns were standard.
Regards,
Alan
The first two look like the power wires to your horns... The second horn daisy chains off of the first.
The next three look like the connectors to the Headlamp Door Switch's mounted on each headlight assembly. They tell your dash indicator that the headlights are fully open. They are plastic switches that are a common failure item. The plastic gets brittle with age and the break.
Here it's referred to as the Warning Switch...
Hi Ben,
Gusto is right on about the horn connectors and the connector for the 'headlight warning' switch.
There is a switch and connector for each headlight.
Regards,
Alan
What I see it that the passenger side headlight assembly area HAS that female connector hanging as shown in my photo, but the headlight assembly DOESN'T have the switch with the male ends.
The driver's side headlight assembly appears to have been replaced, and it HAS the switch with the male connectors as in Gusto's photo. I just now found the female connector and attached it to the driver's side headlight assembly. No difference though.
I really think that's part of the issue with the headlights not recessing.
I also see only 1 horn under there.
GEE THANKS "BUBBA"!!!
Any ideas???
Then again, if we didn't have issues with 'em, then it wouldn't be half as fun to own 'em!
Uuuuummmm... Ain't that right, fellas??? LOL...
just buy a new wiring harness for Electric Limited for your car. I think there are 2 wiring harnesses for the front of the car, one for motor hook-ups and one for lighting. Look them up on the internet, very good product. not cheap on price or product.
Hi Ben,
Hold off on buying a new harness until you figure out what you have and need. There are 2 harnesses forward of the firewall, the Engine Harness and the Forward Lighting Harness.
The headlight warning switches and their connections have nothing to do with the headlight doors opening and closing. They only send an electrical signal to the head light warning indicator in the center dash cluster.
The headlight door actions are a vacuum function controlled by the headlight 'actuators', the headlight 'relays' located between the 2 headlights, the headlight 'switch', and the headlight vacuum over-ride 'switch'.
The headlight switch also obviously has an electrical function, but also controls the open/close vacuum function.
What headlight symptoms are you experiencing?
Regards,
Alan
Hi Alan,
The headlights won't recess.
I replaced both actuators & relays, and the two "disc shaped" pieces that connect to the manifold with units from Wilcox. If I remember correctly one is a filter and the other is a check-valve.
I'm starting to think that the headlight switch in the dash is the culprit, and/or the override pull-switch under the steering column.
The headlights rise and go on & off, but they won't recess.
Also having issues with the wiper door & wiper arms' action.
The wipers work for 3 up/down cycles, then they stop and the wiper door closes on top them. LOL...
I'm going to check that black plastic wiper valve with my Mighty Vac next.
I have a feeling that the wiper switch on the dash is bad too.
The other "thing" is that "Bubba" left quite a few "wires to nowhere" in the car.
Hi Ben,
With the engine running and the headlights OFF pull down on the headlight over-ride switch located under the steering column (the run on the left).
The doors should open when you pull it down, and close when you push it up.
Check that first.
Regards,
Alan
Ben,
I didn't ask the question right.
What happens when the car is running, the doors are closed, the head- light switch is off, and you pull the override switch?
If the doors open and close using the over-ride that indicates the actuators and linkage are working properly.
From there we can begin to test the headlight switch and headlight relays.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Ben,
Begin by manually lowering the headlights.
Disconnect the red and green striped hoses from the actuator.
Reach up from below, through the opening in the lower valance.
Pull slightly forward and down on the rod that the springs attach to. (DON'T pull on the switch if there's one there.)
This 'unlocks' the elbow that 'sets' to keep the door steady in the up position.
The door will close.
Regards,
Alan
Just checked them out again.
When I pulled the car into the garage last night, both were UP.
Just went into the garage and the driver's side was down, passenger side up.
I disconnected the hoses to each actuator (even-though the driver's side was already down), then I gently retracted the passenger side headlight assy..
Reconnected the 4 hoses, and fired the car up.
Pulled down the override and both went up.
Let the car run for a couple of minutes, and pushed the override switch back in, and they both stayed UP.
I turned the lights on and off, and they still stayed up.
Shut the car off and both are still in the up position, no matter what position the override switch or the headlight switch are in.
Help requested: 3 More Connectionless Wires
LOL...
