73 fuel issues
How can I test the fuel pump?
Car ran fine before parked for winter. Spring, nothing. Replaced coil, got spark, put fuel in carb, started and ran for 5 seconds. Then died. She dumped oil on my foot....you guys helped with bad oil pressure gauge tube. Clamped it for time being (I know, dangerous, but just testing ) . Now when it fires up, air sucking sound under dash that fluctuates with gas pedal pressing. Not getting fuel to carb. Fuel line dripped in front of rear wheel well before parked for winter. All I can really say at this point. Frustrated with all the problems now, after it sat undriven for 7 years. Damn thing fired right up and drove. Now one winter and she hates me!


How can I test the fuel pump?
Car ran fine before parked for winter. Spring, nothing. Replaced coil, got spark, put fuel in carb, started and ran for 5 seconds. Then died. She dumped oil on my foot....you guys helped with bad oil pressure gauge tube. Clamped it for time being (I know, dangerous, but just testing ) . Now when it fires up, air sucking sound under dash that fluctuates with gas pedal pressing. Not getting fuel to carb. Fuel line dripped in front of rear wheel well before parked for winter. All I can really say at this point. Frustrated with all the problems now, after it sat undriven for 7 years. Damn thing fired right up and drove. Now one winter and she hates me!
If your fuel line dripped back near your rear wheel well, you have a fuel leak (aka fire hazard) and that needs fixed before anything else. There will be rubber lines connecting the fuel tank to the metal fuel lines that run along the frame. They probably need to be replaced. The ones on my 75 were leaking slightly, but they still managed to flow enough fuel to let the car run. The fuel system was the first thing I went through on my car.
A 43 year old car needs LOTS of love and attention. Good luck.





Target is correct about a vacuum hose most likely leaking behind dash. It is a real pain to work behind there. Be patient, walk away if you get frustrated and take lots of pictures.
To test the fuel pump you can remove the fuel hose that feeds the carb and place it in a bottle and see how much gas it pumps into while cranking over the engine. Most likely after sitting for 7 years and used last year the diaphram in the pump is probably shot. Summit has a nice pump made by carter for 25 bucks, plus an hour of your time and it's done. Check all the fuel filters and the fuel pick up in the tank. Also if your fuel line is leaking it is shot all the way. Crap is definitely restricting fuel flow. The steel line is on top of the frame. The only way now without removing the whole body would be to run a quality rubber fuel line from tank to fuel pump.
Just stay with it you will get it!
Last edited by midigike; Aug 21, 2016 at 09:41 PM.
There is a fuel supply line and return line both at the connection of the steel lines running along the frame rail at the tank and at the fuel pump.
You should check these for leaks.
Regards,
Alan
Lower line (larger) is the supply to the tank; upper line (smaller) is the return line.

Connection of fuel supply line at sending unit in tank.

Connections from steel lines to fuel pump; one large supply hose and one small return hose.

Bottom of fuel pump.

Fuel pump connections.
Supply from tank, return to tank, steel supply line to carburetor.
Last edited by Alan 71; Aug 18, 2016 at 07:43 AM.
I will be changing the fuel lines regardless, just want to be able to move it around in the driveway at this point. I had my wide help me push it out of the garage because there isn't much room in there to work on it, but it is slightly uphill back in! Haha! Not sure my 4 wheeler can push her back inside. 4 months left until winter! Start the countdown!





I will be changing the fuel lines regardless, just want to be able to move it around in the driveway at this point. I had my wide help me push it out of the garage because there isn't much room in there to work on it, but it is slightly uphill back in! Haha! Not sure my 4 wheeler can push her back inside. 4 months left until winter! Start the countdown!
Aquire said new pump. Inspect to make sure right pump. Clean pump mount side with brake cleaner or acetone to remove oil. Glue gasket to pump with a thin coat of RTV.
Clamp fuel send line with Vise Grips. Remove fuel lines. Gas will come rushing out. Keep fuel line up high as possible to prevent fuel from draining out. Remove two bolts holding on pump. You do not have to remove pump plate on block- lower bolts- unless leaking oil and want to reseal.
Now clean pump mount area on block. Let dry. Aquire used up hacksaw blade. Bend blade at one end at 45 degrees about 5 inches up. This will help you push the pump pushrod against the cam while you set the tongue of the pump in the hole so to speak
Now take some RTV and place some on the other side of the pump gasket and some grease on pump lever. Use hacksaw blade to push up rod and then slide pump in making sure it is seated. Install bolts and tighten.
Reattach fuel lines, check for leaks and go for a test ride. Hour and a beer
I believe Chevy book time is 3/4 hour
Yes it is tight. And YES you can do it!
Last edited by midigike; Aug 21, 2016 at 09:45 PM.
so here's where I'm at. I spliced a rubber fuel line into t hge back where it was rotted. I know it's not right, and it is temporary for mkoving it around the driveway. The old fuel pump had a right angle adapter on it and a home bent line up to the carb. I got a new line, bent it up pretty good, got it in, no right angle because it was fused to the old pump, and screwed it in. It wouldn't seat all the way, the nut(screw?) Part of the line fits and goes all t h e way in, but the pipe itself is a bit loose. I put some gas in thed carb, cranked it, it ran for a second then stopped. I looked at the new pump, and it is leaking(I pretty much figured it would) at the line I bent(from pump to carb). So I'm getting gas there, but not up. Aside from just buying the prebent new part, why woulfntvthe old one seat in? The bolt screw is all the way in.
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