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Noticed a bit of separation in my drivers side door. Ran a utility knife around 60% of it. Putty knife and a hammer opened up the remainder. Found some rust inside....On a positive note, I was able to finally replace the door pins and bushings.
Getting a used door would be better...but it also can be also rusting but not as bad as this one.
I know these doors pretty good but by your photos being so close to the rusty areas...it is hard for me to exactly tell where the rust is located. Guess it does not matter.
The reason I wrote this....I also have removed the door skins and repaired door much like this and put them back together after applying stuff to stop the rust and they are still holding up....but...once again...that is IF you can find a door..
I was able to track down a cheap used door from a 77. It appears to be pretty solid, 100 dollars. Cheaper than fixing my old one. I only hope they can match the paint. The rust seems to be all along the top edge of the door where the window felt attaches as well as a small hole just above the latch.
I was able to track down a cheap used door from a 77. It appears to be pretty solid, 100 dollars. Cheaper than fixing my old one. I only hope they can match the paint. The rust seems to be all along the top edge of the door where the window felt attaches as well as a small hole just above the latch.
HECK YEAH...sounds like you scored on that one!!!!!
Well the 100 dollar door was just that. It was worse than mine. I bought a solid door shell from a 78 for 350.00. Have it mounted, but needs a little shimming. Body shops all say they can't match yellow so I am going to have them try. If it is too noticible, will likely have to paint the car.
This maybe a dumb question but if no one can match the color on the door with the good frame couldn't you put your matching color skin on the good frame? Car looks to nice to have to repaint.
Take it some where else,my friend down the street runs a 49 yellow chevy pickup show truck and last year Him and I suicide the doors.We took it to my daughters shop and they matched the paint.PPG will come out to the shop with one of those tools to match paint if it's needed .
Take it some where else,my friend down the street runs a 49 yellow chevy pickup show truck and last year Him and I suicide the doors.We took it to my daughters shop and they matched the paint.PPG will come out to the shop with one of those tools to match paint if it's needed .
YES..PPG uses a special camera..but the camera that takes a photo and goes through the data base of all colors ONLY provides colors that are available. They rate them from 1 to 10. 10 being the very best possible match
SO...this camera tool DOES NOT make it so the paint matched perfectly every time. I KNOW this for a fact. Becasue if i get a formula from my rep and him using the camera. I can tint it more if needed.
BUT..I DO AGREE. This door int this thread is being painted and BUTT MATCHED....and NOT blended. There is a huge difference between the two.
Get the local PPG rep to come by with the camera and see what they can do. I also believe that PPG can take the original skin off your old door and send it to Ohio and let the lab make a formula for you on this also.
The paint shop that told you what they did was NOT lying to you. They were protecting themselves and being honest with you ....becasue just painting a panel and bolting it on...sometimes does not always come out as planned.
The painter at my Daughters shop matched the paint by himself .
That painter must a have a good eye for color as like I do.
I tint colors from time to time also when needed. But as any painter knows..we have to have a starting point and move the color from there.
I have taken my toners and started putting them in a mixing cup and get it to where I want it...but I have an unfair advantage...I know what the toners do.
The body shop is pretty sure they can match the base coat. I had a sample made up at the local body shop supply store and it is pretty close. The body shop says the clear is where the issue will be. They need to blend the clear out and need to find an end point. With the front and rear sections of the body being one piece it will be interesting.
So the inner door was stripped to bare metal and painted. It is a pretty close match. I will install the door and then send it back to the shop to do the outer skin and blend the clear. I am having issues installing the weatherstrip though. Brand new, wiped the strip and the door with acetone, applied the permatex to both the door and the strip, left to tack up and installed. It has already pulled off the tight corner by the upper hinge and it seems I can literally peel it right off. Any suggestions?
So the inner door was stripped to bare metal and painted. It is a pretty close match. I will install the door and then send it back to the shop to do the outer skin and blend the clear. I am having issues installing the weatherstrip though. Brand new, wiped the strip and the door with acetone, applied the permatex to both the door and the strip, left to tack up and installed. It has already pulled off the tight corner by the upper hinge and it seems I can literally peel it right off. Any suggestions?
I've done several car weatherstrips with 3M weatherstrip adhesive and have never had an issue, whether over new or old surfaces after prep. Just an idea - hope it helps.
I've done several car weatherstrips with 3M weatherstrip adhesive and have never had an issue, whether over new or old surfaces after prep. Just an idea - hope it helps.
Picked up some 3m today and will give it a shot. Was alo told that lightly scuffing the paint surface would help as well.
Time for a new door?
