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Going to try a Powermaster starter for my 454. Problem is how to handle all the wires attached to my existing starter. The PM only has and IGN terminal and one marked BAT.
Here's a picture of the wires attach to my existing starter. WTF are all these wires?
In the instructions it reads that the P terminal wires don't really need to be connected? WTF?
Anyone wire a PM starter? If so, how did you do it?
I'm not sure where the dark colored wire would go. The others go to the battery terminal on the PM starter. The single yellow would go to ignition terminal on the PM starter.
I would consolidate some of the wires going to the battery connection. Put them in a single terminal end. The PM starter battery connection doesn't have enough threads to add all of those terminals. Also the connectors/wires look a little ragged.
The best suggestion I have would be to call Power Master and ask them about the dark colored wire.
Power Master Tech Dept. 630-849-7754
Last edited by Street Rat; 09-08-2016 at 10:50 AM.
Reason: Add telephone number
On your old starter one small terminal is marked R and one small one marked S. The S terminal wire will go the the small terminal on the new starter. Do not use the wire from the R terminal, it should be taped back. It is the ignition bypass wire that feeds full voltage to the ignition coil while the starter is cranking, not needed with the power master starter because it uses less amperage to turn the engine and does not effect the ignition coil voltage as much.
In early original wiring harnesses, the "R" circuit was a ballast resistor bypass. This terminal is no connection when the starter is at rest, and is +12VDC while cranking.This circuit provided +12VDC to the ignition coil during cranking for easier engine starting. Cars that do not have a ballast resistor (i.e. HEI, MSD, or other aftermarket ignition systems) should not need this connection. In most cases, this wire can be eliminated. If the engine has no ignition during cranking, then the wiring of the coil is going to require an "R" terminal signal. To accomplish this, connect a 3A/400PIV diode (or Powermaster part # 600 ) in line with the MOTOR SIDE of the solenoid. (Note: This is the terminal on the solenoid which has the cable from inside the starter motor connected to it. It is opposite the BATTERY terminal on the solenoid. The cathode or banded end of the diode goes away from the starter. This allows current to go from the starter to the coil and yet not from the coil to the starter.)
Don't know why all those wires are there. I had the car in a local hot rod shop in 2006 to fix my shifter linkage. Car was in the shop for about 2 weeks....whole nuther story.
Anyway he said my starter was bad and he replaced it. He actually said I had the wrong starter for my BB. He also installed a battery kill switch.
Don't know why all those wires are there. I had the car in a local hot rod shop in 2006 to fix my shifter linkage. Car was in the shop for about 2 weeks....whole nuther story
Anyway he said my starter was bad and he replaced it. He actually said I had the wrong starter for my BB. He also installed a battery kill switch.
What kind of ignition are you running? If stock, it would be best to retain the bypass. If electronic, you'll probably find the other end of that wire taped or capped off.
Originally Posted by John 65
By any chance could 2 of those wires go to electric fans?
Either fans or an additional wire from a higher power alternator. Fans is the most likely and you will have to find a way to either connect these to the new starter lug Orrin another wire of sufficient gauge to the battery.
Last edited by CA-Legal-Vette; 09-09-2016 at 09:58 AM.
Either fans or an additional wire from a higher power alternator. Fans is the most likely and you will have to find a way to either connect these to the new starter lug Orrin another wire of sufficient gauge to the battery.
Yeah, I do have electric fans but I wired them years prior to this starter fiasco. I did not wire them to the starter.
What kind of ignition are you running? If stock, it would be best to retain the bypass. If electronic, you'll probably find the other end of that wire taped or capped off.
I think that the whole shzmozel of wires that are the n the BAT terminal now should be connected to the new BAT terminal. The ignition (right side terminal in your pic I think) goest to the new ignition. I'm not sure what to do with the yellow coil wire. If it were me, I'd try putting that on the Ignition terminal. It'll increase the load on that circuit but I'm not sure where else to hook it up to.
On your old starter one small terminal is marked R and one small one marked S. The S terminal wire will go the small terminal on the new starter. Do not use the wire from the R terminal, it should be taped back. It is the ignition bypass wire that feeds full voltage to the ignition coil while the starter is cranking, not needed with the power master starter because it uses less amperage to turn the engine and does not effect the ignition coil voltage as much.
Attach the purple wire to the IGN terminal on your new PM starter.
Tape off the yellow wire (R terminal) as it is no longer needed.
All the other wires connect to the battery terminal.
Last edited by Peterbuilt; 09-10-2016 at 12:25 PM.
The yellow wire (R terminal) was used to supply power to the coil with the key in start.
See ddawson's post #7.
The new starter does not have an R terminal so it can't be used.
Mini starters draw less current so the R terminal was eliminated.
With the key in START, your blue (purple) wire sends 12 volts to turn on the starter.
Connect that wire to the IGN terminal on your new PM starter.
All the other wires connect to the BAT terminal.
The yellow is not connected and should be taped off.
09-08-2016, 08:19 AM
BB Powermaster starter wiring?
