I like using this simple tool. It centers the prop valve piston while bleeding the system. It keeps that pesky red brake light turned off.

 

Not arguing with anyone's comments but if the C3 brake system is so easy to do, then why does the forum get so many questions from guys who can't get the brake system working properly? I do my own brakes and I've never had a problem because the brake system is easy to work with.........if all goes right and you have a thorough understanding of the system. Leadfoot4 raises a valid point imo. The brake system along with the steering system are critical to safety. At some point, one has to recognize their limitations and take it to a shop. Not sure if that is the situation here.

 

Yup, I agree and am way ahead of you.

My brother in law used to work in a shop while in college and is now an engineer. He is coming over to work with me and teach me.

I felt confident I could figure it out, but with a vital part of the car - making it stop - I decided that I wanted to get it right the first time.

 

Doing the brakes this weekend, unless you know of a MC that I get at a local shop that is reputable, I think this advice is a little late for me. My friend's schedule is really busy and I want to do this before it gets cold as I don't have a heated garage.

 

Understanding what you're saying, BUT......the OP A) asks why HF flare nut wrenches aren't that good, then states that Lowes (Kobalt) tools are too expensive, AND then asks what/where S-K, Snap-On tools are, and where they can be bought; B) says that old style lip seals are good, because they can be "field repaired" easier than the newer, and better, "o-ring" seals. That's incorrect, as nothing could be easier than changing out "O-rings"; and C) doesn't realize that MOST brake rotors of that point in time, have the min. thickness number cast into them (at the hub).

But again, this is just my opinion, and I tend to err on the side of caution. I understand that we all had to start our learning experiences somewhere, I'm just suggesting that braking systems aren't necessarily the best place.....unless you have some help.



UPDATE, I was posting this while the OP was posting post #23............

 

This was not an opinion I made on my own. I read several threads here that argued for both sides and I even watched a video released by Chevrolet. The expert specifically discussed the two types of calipers in the video for our older models. He was suggesting the lip-seals because of the various reasons. He said the o-ring would work, but suggested the lip-seal. He was was my tipping point.

 

also i have to disagree on the rotors discussion.. yes there are considerations regarding cheap chinese junk rotors.. but 40 year old rotors WILL be warped and rust weakened and have hot spot glazing and to a lot lesser extent.. pretty ugly. at least have the rotors turned and trued. or you may be out of spec in the 1st place if your seals are leaking due to runout issues vs age.

if you did not index your rotors ( put them on the way they came off) you may be out of spec and now you have to play all those games regarding dialing in your runout correctly and worrying about if your bearings and new lip seals are forgiving enough if they aren't in spec.

yes, I second the motion that bleeding brakes is a big learning curve...

 

"Common Sense" though goes a long way here. As long as he commits to the idea that car doesn't leave the garage without a solid pedal...... he should be "OK". Things like minimum rotor thickness is addressed in any shop manual.......if he misses something like that.......I'd argue he doesn't meet the common sense requirement. READING and UNDSERTANDING before turning a wrench is part of the "bare minimum" common sense.

There are no tricky, vehicle specific things going on with these cars beyond the idea that the rears have two bleeder screws........if he is going to start with any brake system as his first DIY brake job......a C3 without anti lock brakes is a pretty good place to start IMO.

My car has seen new calipers and brake hoses a couple of times over the past 30 plus years and it's on it's 3rd MC as of just this past summer. I leave the really dirty, heavy stuff to my husband.......but I have done my own brakes in the past. I'm no mechanic but this job really is very easy.

That said though......I do have someone to bounce problems off of when they come up so having the confidence to take on the job is bolstered by the knowledge that I'm not going to have to see the car towed to a shop to complete a job I might have a problem with before completing it........this probably suggests I'm too quick to discount the value of a friend or family member who's help he really should probably enlist for the first attempt at this.

 

I realize you've probably already done the job......I'm posting weeks later at this point. Still.....it might be worth posting my thinking about doing the MC at the same time anyway for the next person thinking about the job.

The Master Cylinder is the easiest and cleanest part of the job if you have to do it later........but it's been my experience that even with "bench bleeding" you end up having to chase air out of the lines anyway.......so....... if at all possible.......you can save yourself a lot of bleeding time later by doing it at the same time you do the calipers and hoses.

I just like the idea of doing it because you could set up everything this one time and not have to get into this again for many years out into the future. Between the MC and all the calipers you'd basically be starting out as NEW when the car was delivered to it's first owner!

Gotta like that!

 

The job is done and the car stops perfectly now. Whoo hoo.

Upon investigation, I realized the MC must have been replaced fairly recently. It was very new looking. So you worries should be put to rest. We did chase a lot of air in the front right caliper. Took forever to get all the air out.

I have to replace the front rotors on both sides. Once we got the old calipers off we realized they were wearing bad so it is time. We couldn't find any part store open that had them in stock so it will be another weekend. Since I am not really driving it now its not much of a worry, but I will have to use the new a pads on the bad rotors for a few stops as I make it over to my friends garage so we can drill out the rivets and replace the rotors. If I am just replacing, do I have anything to worry about with measuring or runout, etc.?