Replacing Calipers this weekend and....
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,783
Likes: 400
From: Paoli, IN
St. Jude Donor '17, '19
Replacing Calipers this weekend and....
Hey Guys,
I bought the caliper set from Willcox and will be going through the process of putting these on this weekend. Couple quick questions:
1.) Does the kit have everything I need? (its the same set found on all the corvette websites)
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...-core-required
2.) Any special tools beside a flare-nut wrench set? And what sizes will I need? I bought a set from harbor freight but they only have 5 sizes. I was hoping someone knew what is needed before I get under the car and find out i need something else.
3.) How much brake fluid do I need to purchase to replace what I drain?
4.) Is there anything like a brake line cleaner or something I can do to make sure nothing got in the lines?
5.) Any tips and lessons learned you would like to share.
Thanks.
I bought the caliper set from Willcox and will be going through the process of putting these on this weekend. Couple quick questions:
1.) Does the kit have everything I need? (its the same set found on all the corvette websites)
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...-core-required
2.) Any special tools beside a flare-nut wrench set? And what sizes will I need? I bought a set from harbor freight but they only have 5 sizes. I was hoping someone knew what is needed before I get under the car and find out i need something else.
3.) How much brake fluid do I need to purchase to replace what I drain?
4.) Is there anything like a brake line cleaner or something I can do to make sure nothing got in the lines?
5.) Any tips and lessons learned you would like to share.
Thanks.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,809
Likes: 441
From: Denver CO
Socket set /flair wrench and fluid. I'd get 3 qts fluid becase you'll have to bleed the system after install.I gravity bled mine. Kit looks complete for what your doing. I replaced my rotors at the same time. Change out is pretty kwik as long as it doesnt fight back.Mine fought back and I had to replace the front crossover steel line cause the rubber lines were rusted solid to it. Good luck
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,278
Likes: 4,372
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi S,
Be very careful using the flare wrenches.
The flare nuts are very small and if the flare wrench isn't well made and an excellent fit, it's VERY EASY to round off the flare nuts.
This can make getting the lines loose to remove them difficult but also may cause problems getting a proper seal when installing the lines in the new calipers.
So use caution, the soft flare nut can be rounded off in an instant!
Regards,
Alan
Be very careful using the flare wrenches.
The flare nuts are very small and if the flare wrench isn't well made and an excellent fit, it's VERY EASY to round off the flare nuts.
This can make getting the lines loose to remove them difficult but also may cause problems getting a proper seal when installing the lines in the new calipers.
So use caution, the soft flare nut can be rounded off in an instant!
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Nov 1, 2016 at 11:27 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,738
Likes: 644
From: Lincoln, CA
Alan is correct. Make sure they fit well.
Pick up a Motive pressure bleeder as well with some C Clamps for the master. Just fill the container and bleed the whole thing.
The rears are a pain to get all the air out.
I also have a kit of vacuum caps. Once I have the line disconnected I place the good fitting cap of so the fluid doesn't keep flowing all over the place. This way the master stays full as well.
Then you can take your time getting everything right before hooking up the lines back to the hardlines.
Pick up a Motive pressure bleeder as well with some C Clamps for the master. Just fill the container and bleed the whole thing.
The rears are a pain to get all the air out.
I also have a kit of vacuum caps. Once I have the line disconnected I place the good fitting cap of so the fluid doesn't keep flowing all over the place. This way the master stays full as well.
Then you can take your time getting everything right before hooking up the lines back to the hardlines.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,783
Likes: 400
From: Paoli, IN
St. Jude Donor '17, '19
Alan is correct. Make sure they fit well.
Pick up a Motive pressure bleeder as well with some C Clamps for the master. Just fill the container and bleed the whole thing.
The rears are a pain to get all the air out.
I also have a kit of vacuum caps. Once I have the line disconnected I place the good fitting cap of so the fluid doesn't keep flowing all over the place. This way the master stays full as well.
Then you can take your time getting everything right before hooking up the lines back to the hardlines.
Pick up a Motive pressure bleeder as well with some C Clamps for the master. Just fill the container and bleed the whole thing.
The rears are a pain to get all the air out.
I also have a kit of vacuum caps. Once I have the line disconnected I place the good fitting cap of so the fluid doesn't keep flowing all over the place. This way the master stays full as well.
Then you can take your time getting everything right before hooking up the lines back to the hardlines.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
You can pump the brakes if you choose to. That's the way I do it. When you remove a brake line from the old caliper, pump the brake to remove the old fluid. Do it for all four. Upon reconnecting all the brake lines, open one bleeder and gravity fill the caliper. Close bleeder when fluid begins to ooze out. Start with the caliper furthest away from the MC. When all four are done, brake pump bleed. I used DOT 4 fluid.
Edit: I didn't use anything to clean out my lines but my lines were in good shape. The new fluid should suffice. Some folks use a rubber mallet and tap the calipers during bleeding to release any entrapped air bubbles. Do not let the MC run empty during the bleeding or you'll get air in the lines.
Edit: I didn't use anything to clean out my lines but my lines were in good shape. The new fluid should suffice. Some folks use a rubber mallet and tap the calipers during bleeding to release any entrapped air bubbles. Do not let the MC run empty during the bleeding or you'll get air in the lines.
Last edited by resdoggie; Nov 1, 2016 at 01:08 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 829
Likes: 131
From: Spartanburg SC
Why are you replacing them? What problems were you having? Reason I ask, if you already have a firm pedal, you probably aren't going to have any problems getting a good bleed. I have become a big fan of gravity bleeding, it has worked great on my car.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 378
Likes: 19
To emphasize what was mentioned about quality flare wrenches, you don't want to be using HF Chinese junk flare wrenches on your brake lines. Get a few S-K, Mac, or Snap-On wrenches. A 3/8, 7/16 combo wrench and 1/2, 9/16 combo, possibly also a 5/8 will handle the job.
The rear calibers each one has two fittings. If your going to gravity bleed, like what I always do, crack one of the fitting loose at a time. Also use a rubber mallet when you're at the point where the fluid running out without any air bubbles.
The rear calibers each one has two fittings. If your going to gravity bleed, like what I always do, crack one of the fitting loose at a time. Also use a rubber mallet when you're at the point where the fluid running out without any air bubbles.
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,783
Likes: 400
From: Paoli, IN
St. Jude Donor '17, '19
Once I got it home and was looking underneath, all the calipers were leaking. I am guessing that some of them started a while back but I didn't notice because the car was still braking. And slowly the wear on the other calipers to compensate for the broken one caused the others to fail. It seemed odd that all would go at once, but I am loosing fluid, and it seems to be originating form the calipers.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,783
Likes: 400
From: Paoli, IN
St. Jude Donor '17, '19
To emphasize what was mentioned about quality flare wrenches, you don't want to be using HF Chinese junk flare wrenches on your brake lines. Get a few S-K, Mac, or Snap-On wrenches. A 3/8, 7/16 combo wrench and 1/2, 9/16 combo, possibly also a 5/8 will handle the job.
The rear calibers each one has two fittings. If your going to gravity bleed, like what I always do, crack one of the fitting loose at a time. Also use a rubber mallet when you're at the point where the fluid running out without any air bubbles.
The rear calibers each one has two fittings. If your going to gravity bleed, like what I always do, crack one of the fitting loose at a time. Also use a rubber mallet when you're at the point where the fluid running out without any air bubbles.
Also, are S-K, Mac, and Snap-on brands? If so, who sells them. I went to Lowes the other day for a wrench and they are supper expensive. Ironic. One wrench was almost the cost of an entire set at HF and even at Walmart. Hell, even AZ and AA had cheaper sets.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,458
Likes: 331
From: Indy Indiana
don't want to open up a debate.. but I would buy a caliper set that was rebuilt with o-ring seals.. will cost you a little bit more.. but is newer technology and much more forgiving to sealing and leaking. but overall that kit is what you need.
I noticed you are not also getting rotors.. might be a good idea to consider. old heavy patina rotors are kind of an eyesore against a nice suspension, and not heat glazed or warped like yours might be.
new rotors will really make it nice looking as well as maximizing your brake efficiency...
I noticed you are not also getting rotors.. might be a good idea to consider. old heavy patina rotors are kind of an eyesore against a nice suspension, and not heat glazed or warped like yours might be.
new rotors will really make it nice looking as well as maximizing your brake efficiency...
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,783
Likes: 400
From: Paoli, IN
St. Jude Donor '17, '19
don't want to open up a debate.. but I would buy a caliper set that was rebuilt with o-ring seals.. will cost you a little bit more.. but is newer technology and much more forgiving to sealing and leaking. but overall that kit is what you need.
I noticed you are not also getting rotors.. might be a good idea to consider. old heavy patina rotors are kind of an eyesore against a nice suspension, and not heat glazed or warped like yours might be.
new rotors will really make it nice looking as well as maximizing your brake efficiency...
I noticed you are not also getting rotors.. might be a good idea to consider. old heavy patina rotors are kind of an eyesore against a nice suspension, and not heat glazed or warped like yours might be.
new rotors will really make it nice looking as well as maximizing your brake efficiency...
The rotors still look good. A big supporter in not getting new ones was the fact that I have to drill them off as they are riveted. Plus, you really can't see them behind the 1980 wheels. If they were easy to remove and cheap to replace, I probably would have done it even if they didn't need to be because of age, but because they appear good still and the amount of hassle and work needed to get them off, I decided to let it go for now.
Last edited by ~Stingray; Nov 2, 2016 at 12:17 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 829
Likes: 131
From: Spartanburg SC
Get a cheap caliper at HF and measure your rotors. I doubt they are worn beyond the minimum thickness. It is a lot of work and creates run-out issues to replace them. Just don't do it unless you have to.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,783
Likes: 400
From: Paoli, IN
St. Jude Donor '17, '19
Also, does anyone know how much Dot 3 fluid I should have on hand when doing this?
Any special technique for draining the fluid?
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,783
Likes: 400
From: Paoli, IN
St. Jude Donor '17, '19
If not, then just bleeding is good.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,375
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
I'm really conflicted, composing this reply, but my gut is telling me that I have to.....and I'm not, in any way, shape, or form, trying to be an azzhat!
Considering some of the questions/comments by the OP, I strongly believe that your automotive experience is limited. Therefore, I caution you about working on your brakes, a VERY important system of your car, by yourself. The braking system is NOT a good place to begin your automotive learning process .....
Considering some of the questions/comments by the OP, I strongly believe that your automotive experience is limited. Therefore, I caution you about working on your brakes, a VERY important system of your car, by yourself. The braking system is NOT a good place to begin your automotive learning process .....
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,341
Likes: 101
Hey Guys,
I bought the caliper set from Willcox and will be going through the process of putting these on this weekend. Couple quick questions:
1.) Does the kit have everything I need? (its the same set found on all the corvette websites)
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...-core-required
2.) Any special tools beside a flare-nut wrench set? And what sizes will I need? I bought a set from harbor freight but they only have 5 sizes. I was hoping someone knew what is needed before I get under the car and find out i need something else.
3.) How much brake fluid do I need to purchase to replace what I drain?
4.) Is there anything like a brake line cleaner or something I can do to make sure nothing got in the lines?
5.) Any tips and lessons learned you would like to share.
Thanks.
I bought the caliper set from Willcox and will be going through the process of putting these on this weekend. Couple quick questions:
1.) Does the kit have everything I need? (its the same set found on all the corvette websites)
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...-core-required
2.) Any special tools beside a flare-nut wrench set? And what sizes will I need? I bought a set from harbor freight but they only have 5 sizes. I was hoping someone knew what is needed before I get under the car and find out i need something else.
3.) How much brake fluid do I need to purchase to replace what I drain?
4.) Is there anything like a brake line cleaner or something I can do to make sure nothing got in the lines?
5.) Any tips and lessons learned you would like to share.
Thanks.
If you do replace all the fluid......and you've got all new Calipers.......spring for a new master cylinder.......it adds very little to overall bill yet it will almost definitely be the next thing to "go".....so why not just do it now and start "completely new" with all the major components? Don't forget to bench bleed.....again it'll save you a bunch of time and effort when bleeding at the end of the job.
I like the "brake fluid" flush you want to do too. If flushing involves anything more than just bleeding till you get that nice gold color replacing the older darker fluid at each corner......I'm unaware of it.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,341
Likes: 101
I'm really conflicted, composing this reply, but my gut is telling me that I have to.....and I'm not, in any way, shape, or form, trying to be an azzhat!
Considering some of the questions/comments by the OP, I strongly believe that your automotive experience is limited. Therefore, I caution you about working on your brakes, a VERY important system of your car, by yourself. The braking system is NOT a good place to begin your automotive learning process .....
Considering some of the questions/comments by the OP, I strongly believe that your automotive experience is limited. Therefore, I caution you about working on your brakes, a VERY important system of your car, by yourself. The braking system is NOT a good place to begin your automotive learning process .....
As important as brakes are to your safety and safety of others on the road.......if he's installing all new products and resolves to NOT leave the garage until he has that solid pedal........ I don't think this one is beyond even the novice DIY. A shop manual and common sense are all anyone needs to do C3 brakes.
He's purchased complete calipers......I might be persuaded to agree with you if he was talking about rebuilding calipers himself but simply installing professionally assemble calipers and bleeding.......is not tough or complicated with pitfalls waiting to trip you up. The system in a C3 is as simple as it gets.