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Lots of choices here. Plan to sand blast them later this week. I called around about ceramic coating and they want $175 to $300! Have heard good reviews on VHT as well as the BBQ paint. Please offer your opinion. Ceramic coating is not in the budget at this time. Also, how do I remove the remaining bolts that appear "distorted"?
High temperature Cast Blast is a good choice also. Keeps the factory look of iron or so I am told. I haven't done my manifolds yet. I am going with aluminization and then having them coated by my powder coater. He does not powder coat the manifolds but uses something on it and it looks really good as I've seen examples.
As for the bolts, are you referring to the air holes? Or the pipe studs? If its the are holes, they will not come out easy. You'll need to heat them with a torch most likely. And when you get them out you will need to find something to fill the holes with unless you are installing the smog equipment.
The link for Summit did not let me through but the paint is by Seymour but it must be the high temp version for the manifolds. 16-048 is the regular version. The high temp paint is good up to 1200 degrees.
Just to be clear, I have NOT used it on exhaust manifolds yet but heard its very good. I've used the regular and its great.
I have heard mixed reactions with the Calyx paste.
Also another option which is another expensive one and you'll likely not use but for anyone else who might be interested, Jerry MacNeish does some great restoration work on cast iron and supposedly has some process by which he refinishes cast iron and its supposed to look great for a very long time. He says life of the car. I may use his services on one of my other cars that I want to keep as original as possible. From what I understand he does not use any type of coating, but I'm not sure. I don't what to write down his website as it may violate the non supporting vendor rule so you guys will have to look it up on your own.
I have painted the exhaust manifolds on my '73 three times now, using VHT, Krylon and Rust-Oleum. In each case, to varying degrees within a couple of years they would rust.
My technique for painting them is as follows. After bead blasting and cleaning them thoroughly, I mount them on a board (2"X8" about 10" long) using the manifold studs to hold them erect. I place them in an oven at between 200-225 degrees Fahrenheit for about 20 minutes. I remove them from the oven and quickly spray them using the heat resistant "paint of the day". I use a good heavy coat as it dries rapidly and then return it to the oven for about 30 minutes. I do this twice and finally let them cool down naturally. I later remount them on the car and cure them fully by driving them for a couple of 30 minute heat cycles.
I finally decided to try the POR-15 Factory Manifold Paint. It has held up better than any of the others I have used and after 3 years still looks good. I use the same technique as outlined above, however I brush it on instead of spraying it on.
I sand blasted the headers and sprayed them with 2 or 3 layers of heat resistant paint. I found one especially for exhaust.
It was funny how the headers smoked when I first fired the car up as the paint got heated for the first time. But it works great the paint. No problems what so ever with it.
I paid to have mine ceramic coated and in a few hours of operation it started wearing off. I used "hot stuff exhaust manifold dressing" and 600 miles later it still looks great.
Could say it has more of silvery tint. But I'm real happy.
you'll need a torch to heat up the manifold to replace those bolts. done it more times than I can count.
if you want barbeque paint, forget the rattle can stuff. way too thin. while I haven't done a vehicle manifold, I have done air cooled engines, mufflers, and plenty of exhaust pipes. use the barbeque paint in the quart cans and brush it on. it is cheaper, thicker, and easier. you can get it plenty thick, and touch it up as needed. definitely blast them first.
VHT for exhaust manifolds is pretty good. But the BEST stuff I've ever found and USE is Seymour "Cast Blast" cast iron-colored [ceramic] paint for 2000*F and exhaust manifolds. Seymour sells similar product for 500*F..but you want the 2000* stuff.
Blast or wire brush your manifolds to be free of debris and corrosion. Wash if needed, but dry quickly as they can begin to rust right in front of your eyes. When dry, wipe them down with rag dampened with lacquer thinner to make sure there are no oils on the surface.
Immediately spray with two good coats of Seymour hi-temp paint. Let dry overnight. Install them on the engine BEING CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE/SCUFF THE PAINT AS IT IS NOT YET CURED. Over the next 4 to 6 hours of engine operating, that paint will cure to a ceramic coating the looks just like freshly cast iron. And it will keep that same apprearance for many years.
While curing, that stuff will STINK!! and smoke, so keep windows open [or wear a gas mask ]. Actually, with lots of fresh air it is no problem. Once cured, all is good!!
While I can't swear at this, I believe that Por 15 Factory Manifold Grey and similar products are a form of frit. Search "frit" to see what it is.
Clean the manifolds well. Give a few nice coats of the Por 15. Find a ceramics hobbiest/shop. Ask them to fire at "cone 021". You will not have a "ceramic coated" manifold at a price you can afford even though the ceramist is very likely to charge you for a solo firing in the kiln. Cone 021 is very close to the lowest possible melting point of cast iron.
POR coated manifolds look like they are painted; they do not look like cast iron. So, which product you choose depends on what you are expecting out of the refinished manifolds.
when you have it all cleaned up, but before you get it coated .And you have a lot of money laying around ,think about this http://www.extrudehoneafm.com/ It can help open the exhaust up .then get it coated.
Below is my original 69 manifold in VHT Silica Ceramic. It was done just over 2 years ago and the pic was taken this morning. No cracks, chipping, peeling or any other problems and no primer was used.
If over-restoration isn't your thing, you can always paint them the same way the factory did. After 7 years of driving, they will still look the way they were intended to look.
Below is my original 69 manifold in VHT Silica Ceramic. It was done just over 2 years ago and the pic was taken this morning. No cracks, chipping, peeling or any other problems and no primer was used.
when you have it all cleaned up, but before you get it coated .And you have a lot of money laying around ,think about this http://www.extrudehoneafm.com/ It can help open the exhaust up .then get it coated.
That was interesting to watch, somewhat mesmerizing. Like old pla-dough toys when we were kids! LOL that process is new to me!
"I place them in an oven at between 200-225 degrees Fahrenheit for about 20 minutes. I remove them from the oven and quickly spray them using the heat resistant "paint of the day". I use a good heavy coat as it dries rapidly and then return it to the oven for about 30 minutes. I do this twice and finally let them cool down naturally.
How bad will the house smell when I do this? Usually it's the husband scared to do this in fear of the wrath of the wife, mine will be the opposite!!
If over-restoration isn't your thing, you can always paint them the same way the factory did. After 7 years of driving, they will still look the way they were intended to look.
Are you sure? I don't think the factory painted the exhaust manifolds, at least I've never seen any evidence of it...but I could be wrong.
Exhaust manifold
]. Actually, with lots of fresh air it is no problem. Once cured, all is good!!
Usually it's the husband scared to do this in fear of the wrath of the wife, mine will be the opposite!!