Hi Everyone
I've been away from the site after selling my 75 but need some advice on a possible new project.
A buddy offered me a 1970 4 speed car. The original colour was blue/blue but it's now red. The car has a 73 front clip put on it. It's a 4:11 rear, non numbers 73 350 2 bolt block that has a Winters high rise intake and makes pretty good power, along with the 4 speed. The frame is nice but it has small rust holes in the upper windshield pillars.

I am going to look it over this week when my friend is off work and I'll get pics and more details. The body mounts are suppose to be good but I'll obviously remove the kick panels and inspect everything. The body has about an 8 inch verticle crack behind the passenger side rear wheel that was poorly partially repaired but other than that, the body looks decent. It will need paint, interior restored, etc.

The cost to put a 70 clip back on it properly probably isn't worth it considering it's not original. So it would likely keep the 73 clip, get flares and be a fun driver if the cage can be repaired.

If the birdcage is too far gone, what is the rough value of the car? I can get it without the 350/4-speed for $2500CAD(about $1850US). He hasn't said how much with the drivetrain. I figure if the 4 speed frame is nice, it's worth buying just for the frame.

 

From what you've described I would take the car at that price without seeing pictures.

 

You will have more money trying to repair it than you would if you found a sound frame Corvette. Run don't walk from it.

 

You mean the bird cage right? The frame is in nice shape. The body mounts are suppose to be soild as well. It has some small rust holes at the top of the windshield pillars. I'm up in northern Canada so finding anything solid is pretty hard. Sadly, I've seen a lot of C3's that were terminally rotted around here.
I got rid of my 75 because the cage had rusted too badly, but this 70 seems like it's just in the upper corners of the pillars. I thought just the 4 speed frame was worth $1850 US. I can get the whole rolling shell without the engine and tranny for $1850 US. I also have a 350/4 speed already to drop in it. It's suppose to have newer brakes and some other parts on it as well. But the seller might just part it out to make more money. I have to wait to hear back from him.

 

Sometimes cheap is too much.
It is worth the price, if you have the time/space wherewithal to part it out.

 

I'm permanently disabled so time is something I have plenty of. I've had 3 C3's over the years(75, 80, 81). If the rot is just in the pillars and the top windshield piece, is it still too far gone to justify saving? I would be doing the repair work and wouldn't have to pay a shop. Finding a rust free "project" around here is impossible. Especially steel bumper cars. I'd be looking at $1500+ in just hauling fees to get a car brought from a rust free climate and the car would likely be a lot more expensive to begin with.
The holes in the pillars are pretty small. If the rot extends down into the firewall and lower mounts I wouldn't bother fixng it. The interior is out right now so inspection would be easy. The owner bought it and a 70 LS5 vert from the same owner and is restoring the vert.
I love the ZL-1/L88 flares and I already have the Daytona GT headlights as well, so I figured this car could be modded without cutting up a nice steel bumper C3. It already has the crack behind the passenger rear wheel so it would be a great candidate for the flares. With it having the 73 clip, modding the headlights also wouldn't be a big deal like it would if it had the original 70 front end.
I figure if it turned out that the cage was too far gone, I could still get my money back if I parted it out.
One concern I have is how the front clip is bonded to the firewall at the top of each fender. Can anyone post a pic of how the clip should be bonded in this area? I'm going to try and get pics of it in the next couple of days so members have a better idea of what the car looks like and it's potential.
Thanks.

 

This! if the motor and trans are out no reason to buy it for parts
Have the forum scout you one without the rust issues C3s arent that much unless you have to have a steel bumper car

Thats just too much work, what ifs etc

Shipping isnt too bad
Just sent a 1 ton dually from LA CA to NJ last night...1200. EAS here quoted same thing thats a big wide heavy beast of a truck (lot of shippers didnt want to due to width) sure a vette would be cheaper
Couldnt find one without any rust on it. Sad to see it go.

 

Living up in Canada, I get hammered by the exchange rate. Plus, a lot of hauling companies don't want to cross the border because of the hassle with paperwork. If they do, it's expensive. Being in northern Canada, I'm pretty far from any mild climates that would have a decent C3 project. I'm 1400 miles from NJ and 2400 miles from CA to give you an idea of the distance involved. They also just changed the import laws so that to bring even one vehicle into Canada you need a brokerage licence. I'll get pics of the 70 in the next couple of days and post them.

 

Sounds like you have had your mind made up so good luck. Hope it works out.

 

I haven't decided yet. I'm actually leaning towards not getting it unless the frame is mint and the cage isn't too far gone. It's just being so far north, options are limited. I have to go and inspect the cage, frame, mounts etc. before deciding. He has a hoist and the interior is out so I can do a good inspection. I'll post pics to get opinions either way. Were getting a foot of snow tonight so I may not get pics until the middle of next week.

He'll take $1500CAD($1100US) and a set of heads I have about $800US in so about $1900US.

If it is just rot in the upper cage, it shouldn't be too bad of a job correct? It seems like a job that is more time consuming than difficult. Take my time and make sure everything is lined up correctly, etc.
Or is there more to it?

 

There is a reason for the mismatched clip, likely it was in a relatively extensive crash. Is the frame straight, is there hidden damage in the front end? This would be a concern for myself. Just a thought, Mark

 

I don't see a "4 speed" frame as a plus...That just means the crossmember is not removeable, making trans swaps more difficult.

 

No frame damage that I could see.

The previous owner sold this 70 and a 70 LS5 convertible he was restoring to my buddy. The previous owner bought this 70 just for the front clip to put onto the 70 LS5 convertible which had the damaged front clip. After he used the clip off this 70 for the LS5, he put a 73 clip he already had on this car and gave it to his son to drive.

Old photos of this 70 show it with the LS5/LT1 hood before it was a donor for the LS5 'vert.

A 4:11 gear if factory installed would only be available as an optional ratio for the L46 and LT1 correct? I'm thinking it may have been an LT1 car because of the hood, 4:11 gear ratio, and 4 speed. The 350 in it does have a Winter's high rise intake. I wonder if the original LT1 was blown and the salvageable parts were put on the current 350 like the intake??

What other clues would denote a LT1 car? Fuel line size, RPM gauge redline, etc.? My understanding is the LS5 had a 5500 redline and the LT1 was 6500. The LT1 also had a single 3/8th's fuel line I think??? I had an original 70 LS6 Chevelle and know certain parts can help I.D. what the car came with.

I can also get the GM Canada docs that will definitively say what motor it originally came with.

I'm going to try and get the numbers off the rear axle and the 4 speed but the 4 speed is already sold and going in a Chevelle.

The original colour was "Bridgehampton Blue Metallic"

 

Does anyone have a pic of the transistorized ignition location on a 70 LT1?

 

Say it was an LT1 car is it really worth it?
If you can see visible rust at the top of the pillar guaranteed the rest is gone that takes a LOT of work and skill to redo and get it right...and keep motivation/$$

Keep us posted. If it were me Id pass and wait for something better, build a clone or something.

 

My plow truck died and we got a foot of snow so I haven't had a chance to get over to my buddies. But he did check the console plate and it says 350/350hp so I'm guessing the L46. He forgot to see if it has the 6000rpm tach but I asked him to check tonight. The 4:11's were apparently added by the previous owner. Someone must have added the LS5/LT1 hood as well. I'm also getting him to check to see if the Winter intake ends with 2110 but it could have come from anywhere like the hood.

I found a numbers matching 68 327/350hp 4-speed car a few hours away that spent most of it's life in Texas for 15K US. I can't afford it but it shows what can be bought for reasonable money compared to the cost of fixing a basket case. So I'll probably be passing on the 70. When I get a chance, I'll still go check it out to see how bad it is and grab some pics.

As a coincidence, I do know of a numbers matching green 70 LT1/4speed car locally that's rotting into the ground sadly. I stopped at the guys house 25 years ago when I was a teenager to ask about it. He had K-mart tires on it and his dog tied to it. At the time he said he was going to restore it. 25 years later and it's exactly where it was before. Only further sunk into the ground. Not even a tarp on it.

 

I final got a chance to look at the car. It's a 70 L46/4 speed but the original engine is gone. I think it has the original 4 speed but I'd have to trade a M20 I have to get the one in the car. It has 4:11's which were changed from what it originally had. Being a L46, would it have a M20 or M21? I couldn't get under the car yet to check the numbers.

The frame looked solid in front of the rear wheels with one small piece of thin rusty metal coming off about 1 inch by 1/4 inch. The main frame rails were rust free without even surface rust. He's pulling the motor and tranny this weekend and blocking it up so I can inspect the frame, A-arm mounting points, and rockers better. By feeling in between the frame and rockers, it felt totally solid with no rust or rot. But in the interior where the seat belt bolts go into the rockers, the passenger side bolt hole is bowed out and the metal looks crusty around it that I can see. This is the main area I'm concerned with. The drivers side bolt hole is bowed out a little but not nearly as much as the passenger side.

I looked over the windshield surround and it actually has no holes or pitting like I thought it did. Threre was some surface rust where the top of the windshield meets the T-top bar but no rot. The driver side top of the firewall appears solid and the passenger side may or may not have been patched. I'd have to investigate more. Someone had put a bead of silicone along the top of the winshield and I'd have to clean out the sealant along the top channel to really know whats underneath. But I squeezed the metal all along the windshield and felt no give or crunchiness. The #2 body mounts both had surafce rust and rust flakes lying loose and there was a couple of blobs of a bondo like material in a couple of spots. I'm going to try and get pics Sat or Sun.

The body has dings in a few spots and the large crack(about 12-14 inches) behind the pass rear wheel that was badly repaired. The crack doesn't bother me because I planned on adding the ZL1 flares if I bought it. The 73 clip looks decent but the door gaps are not great so I would likely remove it to install it better. Especially if I do have to repair the cage. It needs a drivers door, windshield, and the interior is apart. The original 70 seats are there, gauges, dash, and console. It has it's original ralleys as well.

He's moving and needs the garage cleared out. Plus he's redoing a LS5 vert. I can get it without the engine or tranny with a clear title for $1800 CAD/$1350US. Would the value of the T-tops, 70 seats, headlight assemblies, 4:11 rear end, glass, frame, etc. be worth the cash if worse case scenario it had terminal issues with the cage?

 

I would be doing any repairs and wouldn't have to pay a shop. I know the work involved in fixing the upper cage as well as removing the front clip/firewall and have no problem taking a project of that size on. If it takes 4-5 years to get the car done, thats fine.

 

Not always..... ours needed new upper corners of the windshield frame, and we patched a couple small holes at the bottom edge of the windshield, but the farther down we went, the better it got. The lower portion of the cage, and the mounting points were in great shape. That`s what helped us decide to do a "body on" resto.
BUT.... the car was pretty much stripped when we bought it, and could clearly see the extent of the damage while it was still in HIS garage!

 

Either. The L-46 did not require the M21.