When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I tried pulling the prongs out in the after markets. Worked in some cases others not so well. Then I created pigtails using my old receptacles which now seem to be holding pretty well.
Im actually thinking about long pig tails which will not tug on the receptacles as I wrestle with this panel when I re install it.
Mix up a dollop of JB Weld 2-part epoxy and use a toothpick to put a bit on both slots where the metal piece is supposed to fit. Press the metal piece in place and let it set for 24 hours.
Mix up a dollop of JB Weld 2-part epoxy and use a toothpick to put a bit on both slots where the metal piece is supposed to fit. Press the metal piece in place and let it set for 24 hours.
Actually this is a different issue..the later dealt with the metallic pulling out of the panel.. This deals with the base pulling out of the metallic.
It's a bitch of a job to have all the lights dangling loose and then try to insert them one by one from the back. With all the wiggling around they are easy to pop out. I remember one in particular had very little clearance and always popped loose.
I did suggest that you modularize the panel by inserting all the sockets and ganging them together. That way you don't have to fuss with the assembly process. Did you do that? Are those the pigtails ?
I can't imagine how the person on the assembly line coped with this, he/she was probably the "new guy".
The sockets that Alan showed which are the same as those I used were very secure and did not pop out, nor did the metallic ground ever separate from the plastic. The originals are a different story and if you are retaining those, epoxy would have to be the solution.
It's a bitch of a job to have all the lights dangling loose and then try to insert them one by one from the back. With all the wiggling around they are easy to pop out. I remember one in particular had very little clearance and always popped loose.
I did suggest that you modularize the panel by inserting all the sockets and ganging them together. That way you don't have to fuss with the assembly process. Did you do that? Are those the pigtails ?
I can't imagine how the person on the assembly line coped with this, he/she was probably the "new guy".
The sockets that Alan showed which are the same as those I used were very secure and did not pop out, nor did the metallic ground ever separate from the plastic. The originals are a different story and if you are retaining those, epoxy would have to be the solution.
"I did suggest that you modularize the panel by inserting all the sockets and ganging them together. That way you don't have to fuss with the assembly process. Did you do that? Are those the pigtails ? "
I'm not quite sure what you mean by modularizing the panel. My thinking right now is to have fairly long pigtails so as I install the panel I won't be tugging on the lights. Is that what you had in mind?
I'm not quite sure what you mean by modularizing the panel. My thinking right now is to have fairly long pigtails so as I install the panel I won't be tugging on the lights. Is that what you had in mind?
Yes that's how I did it. By "modularizing" I mean it goes in as a unit with all the lights and sockets in place and, in my case, everything tied to one connector to attach after everything is in place. It does mean cutting the bulb leads and putting some kind of connector together. I chose to use spade type connectors with shrink wrap around the female side. Have another look at my picture for reference.
If you've kept the incandescents than you probably should have individual wires that are long enough to attach to their mates coming out of the harness. That's done by poking your head under the dash after installation.
If you replaced the incandescents with LED's as I did there's considerably less current draw and I connected the "pigtails" I created to one each of the gray harness wires.
It worked pretty well for me and the aftermarket sockets stayed firmly in place. I only understand your problem with the sockets as having to do with the originals.
Yes that's how I did it. By "modularizing" I mean it goes in as a unit with all the lights and sockets in place and, in my case, everything tied to one connector to attach after everything is in place. It does mean cutting the bulb leads and putting some kind of connector together. I chose to use spade type connectors with shrink wrap around the female side. Have another look at my picture for reference.
If you've kept the incandescents than you probably should have individual wires that are long enough to attach to their mates coming out of the harness. That's done by poking your head under the dash after installation.
If you replaced the incandescents with LED's as I did there's considerably less current draw and I connected the "pigtails" I created to one each of the gray harness wires.
It worked pretty well for me and the aftermarket sockets stayed firmly in place. I only understand your problem with the sockets as having to do with the originals.
Oh. . OK... I understand .. you do good work... I'm not sure I'm good enough to come up with a connector like you did .. I'll just go with the long pigtails..I might even switch back over to the after market sockets.. Thanks for your help...
I'm planning to go behind the dash shortly so looking ahead.
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Mix up a dollop of JB Weld 2-part epoxy and use a toothpick to put a bit on both slots where the metal piece is supposed to fit. Press the metal piece in place and let it set for 24 hours.
instrument lighting receptacles
