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Putting rods in, have too little side play with rods 7 and 8.
wondering if I can change positions ( 5 with 7, 8 with 6 etc).
Thanks for any help.
Steve
I would not. If they were numbered before they were removed...put them back in as you took them out.
But not knowing what you are doing or have done in this rebuild..I do not know if you had the engine balanced and so on.
DUB
I got the car with the motor in pieces, honed cylinders after boiling the block and doing cam bearings. I am using the original crank ( just polished it)
and running original std, bore pistons ( never off rods) Part of my confusion is the rod cap makings are hit and miss. Soooo I am sure they have to go even or odd side ( to get the bearins facing right and piston notch facing forwar.
Hope this makes sense, thanks for any help.
also if rod side play range is plus or minus .004 off of .012 can I just move them as long as I am within that????
Are they stock rods? Reconditioned? How much is the side clearance on each journal? Was the crank reground?
Can you measure the distance between each set of crank webs for comparison? And the width of the rod big ends?
That makes sense ! before I move them figure out the side play on the others . Is there a max number for side play? I looked around and am getting several different answers,!?
I am not a machinist. On all of the engines I have disassembled and went to the machine shop. The connecting rods and caps were clearly marked so they would go back as they came out. The main caps also. I have never assembled the internals of an engine when it was a box of parts.
I do know that the importance of the connecting rods is something I would not mess around with. Keep in mind this would be on a customers engine where they might hold be liable, So...if it were me I would have to send it to my machinist to make sure all rotating parts are correct. Because assembling it and checking bearing clearances and HOPING all is well is NOT what I do. I can not HOPE it will work.. I have to KNOW it will work correctly and not sling out a rod bearing or something else.
I here you, I think the biggest problem for me since I am doing it for myself is burning something up if I do not have enough oil pressure. and of course having to redo it.
This is an anniversary addition with matching number block, so I would like to make it work. The rod caps were never marked right some have no numbers , some have two numbers on them.
I checked the rod side play 1 and 2 are .014 3and 4 are .014 5 and 6 are .012 and 7 and 8 are close to.002 !
so I think I am going to try to move #7 to the # 3 spot.
What the heck, if I end up with more even side play. I was also thinking about asking the guy who polished the crank what he thinks is minimum side play?
The cap and rod are a matched pair. Very bad things happen when they get mixed up. Don't leave an incompetent helper alone who just might mix things up. DAMHIKT! I am of the opinion you need to take the lot to a competent machinist and have all the rods reconditioned.
The consequence of a mismatch is high potential for a spun bearing(s) and ruined crank journal(s)