Are my window rollers still good?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 195
Likes: 37
From: Poway CA
Are my window rollers still good?
After many searches, I have not been able to determine if the rollers in the window mechanism (3 in the regulator guides, and 2 on the window itself) are supposed to have as much side to side play as they do. Some places say they should have play and others say there should be none that is perceptible. All of my rollers seem to be original from 1968, but they seem to be fine except for the play. After cleaning out the old waxy grease, they spin freely, but can also be rotated in the plane perpendicular to the spin to about 20 to 30 degrees. I don't know if this is by design to account for freedom of movement or not.
Before spending at least $100 and time and trouble of replacing the wheels, it would be nice to know if someone knows for sure if mine are ok or definitely need replacing.
The power window had been pretty slow and needed some time to get fully closed, but always opened fairly quickly. I was hoping cleaning and re-greasing would be the ticket, but if the rollers are bad, I will replace while the doors are apart. Thanks for any advice!
Before spending at least $100 and time and trouble of replacing the wheels, it would be nice to know if someone knows for sure if mine are ok or definitely need replacing.
The power window had been pretty slow and needed some time to get fully closed, but always opened fairly quickly. I was hoping cleaning and re-greasing would be the ticket, but if the rollers are bad, I will replace while the doors are apart. Thanks for any advice!
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,600
Likes: 7,046
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Rookie here: My '68 manual rollers were nearly seized from hardened grease/grime...but they had only about 10* "lean-out".
If your motors are cable-drive they may need cleaning/greasing. Gear drive....cleaning and new grease.
Also...if the channels are out of adjustment the window will go up slower.
(always the chance of corroded wiring terminals or weak motors)
If your motors are cable-drive they may need cleaning/greasing. Gear drive....cleaning and new grease.
Also...if the channels are out of adjustment the window will go up slower.
(always the chance of corroded wiring terminals or weak motors)
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 253
Likes: 42
From: Moultrie Ga
Kirk,
If the old ones are pretty solid I wouldn't replace them. A lot of binding problems come from hardened grease in the tracks. I would pull the tracks out of the car and clean and inspect them really closely. You'll find in the edges of the tracks a hard plastic like substance that's actually old grease. I had to use a small curved pick to get it out. The rollers are supposed to have a fair amount of articulation all around.
If the old ones are pretty solid I wouldn't replace them. A lot of binding problems come from hardened grease in the tracks. I would pull the tracks out of the car and clean and inspect them really closely. You'll find in the edges of the tracks a hard plastic like substance that's actually old grease. I had to use a small curved pick to get it out. The rollers are supposed to have a fair amount of articulation all around.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,814
Likes: 414
From: Pittsburgh suburbs Pa.
Kirk,
If the old ones are pretty solid I wouldn't replace them. A lot of binding problems come from hardened grease in the tracks. I would pull the tracks out of the car and clean and inspect them really closely. You'll find in the edges of the tracks a hard plastic like substance that's actually old grease. I had to use a small curved pick to get it out. The rollers are supposed to have a fair amount of articulation all around.
If the old ones are pretty solid I wouldn't replace them. A lot of binding problems come from hardened grease in the tracks. I would pull the tracks out of the car and clean and inspect them really closely. You'll find in the edges of the tracks a hard plastic like substance that's actually old grease. I had to use a small curved pick to get it out. The rollers are supposed to have a fair amount of articulation all around.
Most of the time it is just a good cleaning and re-lube job that is needed . The wheels rarely go bad and have a certain amount of side movement which is normal . The motors could even be getting weak or just bad electrical connections.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 957
Likes: 444
From: Dutchess county New York
I'm in the middle of that with my '69. Rubbing alcohol is cheap and cleans away old crud very well – and there was lots of it in there. Stay away from the paint with it.
In the end I wound up with the glass, regulators & motors out. Only way to check it all and get it all really clean. As for the rollers unless they're out of round or obviously falling apart I'd keep them. If I understand you right and they are the same as the ones I have down on my bench right now, I think you're right.They are designed like that. Not sure how to put it looks like they are pressed onto a ball not just a spindle to allow for some movement.
My problem was the big pressed in fitting in the center of the regulator arms. Both were very sloppy and with the amount of movement in the side to side I could see how the whole thing wasn’t working well. Maybe the plastic rollers were designed like that to allow for a little runout. I ordered new regulators and they are much tighter.
I cleaned up the motors and they tested OK on the bench by themselves but one of them was really laboring with just the regulator attached to it. Just used my tractor battery and test leads, that way it rules out any of the car’s wiring or switches. Again, I ordered replacement motors because I really don’t want to have to go through this again. The holidays have delayed shipping so I’m still waiting for them.
If you do take the motors off the regulators make sure to first line up the holes & put a bolt with a nut through it to hold them in place before you unbolt to motor. The coil spring is putting tension on the regulator arm and the motor is holding it in place.
It was a good time to clean & silicone all the other door hardware and fix a broken clip on the door panel.
As big of a p.i.t.a things like these are I’m actually enjoying it.
Good luck
In the end I wound up with the glass, regulators & motors out. Only way to check it all and get it all really clean. As for the rollers unless they're out of round or obviously falling apart I'd keep them. If I understand you right and they are the same as the ones I have down on my bench right now, I think you're right.They are designed like that. Not sure how to put it looks like they are pressed onto a ball not just a spindle to allow for some movement.
My problem was the big pressed in fitting in the center of the regulator arms. Both were very sloppy and with the amount of movement in the side to side I could see how the whole thing wasn’t working well. Maybe the plastic rollers were designed like that to allow for a little runout. I ordered new regulators and they are much tighter.
I cleaned up the motors and they tested OK on the bench by themselves but one of them was really laboring with just the regulator attached to it. Just used my tractor battery and test leads, that way it rules out any of the car’s wiring or switches. Again, I ordered replacement motors because I really don’t want to have to go through this again. The holidays have delayed shipping so I’m still waiting for them.
If you do take the motors off the regulators make sure to first line up the holes & put a bolt with a nut through it to hold them in place before you unbolt to motor. The coil spring is putting tension on the regulator arm and the motor is holding it in place.
It was a good time to clean & silicone all the other door hardware and fix a broken clip on the door panel.
As big of a p.i.t.a things like these are I’m actually enjoying it.
Good luck
