1981 corvette electrical issues help!
turned out that one of the window switches was stuck, pushing the window up all the time. The motor is quiet, so you never would suspect.
Man did the switch get hot too. And drained the batt in an hour.
(must of had a french fry stuck in it...........
)The remedy was to cut down on the fries. .....
turned out that one of the window switches was stuck, pushing the window up all the time. The motor is quiet, so you never would suspect.
Man did the switch get hot too. And drained the batt in an hour.
(must of had a french fry stuck in it...........
)The remedy was to cut down on the fries. .....

The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Stock battery cables are copper clad aluminum trash.
Door lock switches and the harness plugs that connect to them corrode due to rain water intrusion.
Door lock actuators go bad because GM mounted them vertical so crap can run in and jamb them up.
Intermittent wiper modules fail.
Alarm modules go bad. Alarm will go off in the middle of the night for no reason.
Choke relay goes bad.
Low fuel light circuit board quits.
Courtesy light timer goes bad and drains the battery.
Oil pressure gauge loses its fluid damping and wiggles.
ECM can go out.
Harness connection on the firewall behind the fuse box can corrode.
Tail light sockets can corrode internally and go whacko.
Flashers quit
Cruise control quits.
Turn signal switch quits.
These are just what I remember over the last 20 years chasing this stuff.

Know whats funny? I am an electrician. 38 years.
Stock battery cables are copper clad aluminum trash.
Door lock switches and the harness plugs that connect to them corrode due to rain water intrusion.
Door lock actuators go bad because GM mounted them vertical so crap can run in and jamb them up.
Intermittent wiper modules fail.
Alarm modules go bad. Alarm will go off in the middle of the night for no reason.
Choke relay goes bad.
Low fuel light circuit board quits.
Courtesy light timer goes bad and drains the battery.
Oil pressure gauge loses its fluid damping and wiggles.
ECM can go out.
Harness connection on the firewall behind the fuse box can corrode.
Tail light sockets can corrode internally and go whacko.
Flashers quit
Cruise control quits.
Turn signal switch quits.
These are just what I remember over the last 20 years chasing this stuff.

Know whats funny? I am an electrician. 38 years.


Eventually you will have it all sorted out. It just takes $$ and patience.
Find out if your gauge lights also flash as the radio cuts in and out. If so I'd say there's a 95% chance that the problem is the ground connection on the driver door pillar near the headlight switch. That single connection provides ground for nearly everything in the cabin.
If the gauge lights don't cut in and out, then the problem is probably not ground related but somewhere in the courtesy circuit (those orange wires). The first place I would look is the radio and thereabouts as there may be a poor connection/bad splice/etc. from when the aftermarket stereo was installed. Otherwise (and this won't be fun to do yourself or inexpensive to have done) a factory splice in the harness may be bad. If I remember correctly the orange wire leading to the horn relay (above the fuse panel) leads to the first splice (after the fuse) in the courtesy circuit.


















