Front spring question
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From: shelby twp,mi,usa
Front spring question
Swapped engines, removed all A/C components, now have aluminum heads, intake & so on. Front end sits about 2 inches to high. Are new spring the way to go? I so what kind?
Thanks for any help you can lend
Thanks for any help you can lend
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2012
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I did the same and stock springs were 1.5" taller, 460's were 2" taller than my original stock height and 550's were about .5" shorter than my original stock height (less free length than 460). YMMV.
R
Last edited by Dynra Rockets; Feb 14, 2017 at 12:30 PM.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
I did the same mods. I just removed the stock springs and cut one coil off each spring. It lowered the front about 2".
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From: shelby twp,mi,usa
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: New Braunfels Texas
If you do it right this is a cheap, easy and safe mod. It even increases the spring rate a bit.
Jebby
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From: shelby twp,mi,usa
front springs
Started on spring removal, but try as I may I cannot get the ball joint loose from the control arm. Beat on that pickle fork for 30 minutes. and nothing moved. Really destroyed the ball joint boot though. Got any ideas?
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: New Braunfels Texas
Too wide will not give you the wedge you need.
Jebby
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Melting Slicks
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From: Toronto
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From: No Where USA
I take my spring out by taking the inside bolts off the control arm. The ones that hold it to the chassis. It is easier and you won't have to bang the hell out of the ball joint and rip the boot. Put a spring compressor on the spring (run it up thru the shock hole, look it up) and then remove the bolts and swing the control arm out of the way. I can do one side in about 20 minutes.
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From: shelby twp,mi,usa
front springs
I take my spring out by taking the inside bolts off the control arm. The ones that hold it to the chassis. It is easier and you won't have to bang the hell out of the ball joint and rip the boot. Put a spring compressor on the spring (run it up thru the shock hole, look it up) and then remove the bolts and swing the control arm out of the way. I can do one side in about 20 minutes.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: No Where USA
Like your idea about removing inside bolts. I now have to remove my control arm cause I have to replace the ball joint. Now another problem, cannot get the big bolt loose on the control arm. tried impact wrench, flex bar with 30 inch extension, still nothing. Is it threaded into the control arm? Must be. Forgot to say, yes the ball joint is loose.
No that bolt goes thru the frame, no threads. It may be rusted in place. Hit it with some penetrating oil.
I learned that way when I went to school for GM.
Last edited by 540 vette; Feb 16, 2017 at 08:40 PM.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
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From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Are you talking about removing the lower A frame when you say control arm?
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From: shelby twp,mi,usa
Yes. I now have everything off and spring out but lower A frame will not come loose. The rear most bolt appears to be holding the thing in place. So far no amount of prying, pounding, penetrating oil or anything is working. I'm ready to replace the ball joint, cut the spring and put it back together without new bushings. I'm I missing something? Didn't expect this to be so difficult.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
any pics off whats going on?
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2015
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From: Clermont-Ferrand France
I just did mine and that bolt was a very tight fit.
I had to support the lower a arm to prevent any shear stress or bending momentum on the bolt. Also I put back in place the 2 smaller bolts to maintain the alignment.
With that in place, I used a pin chaser to push the bolt out. Once aligned and the weight supported, it came out relatively easily. Or at least as easy as it could be on a 40 yo car with some rust...
I had to support the lower a arm to prevent any shear stress or bending momentum on the bolt. Also I put back in place the 2 smaller bolts to maintain the alignment.
With that in place, I used a pin chaser to push the bolt out. Once aligned and the weight supported, it came out relatively easily. Or at least as easy as it could be on a 40 yo car with some rust...
Racer
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Il.
Put the nut back on the bolt just so the bolt and nut are the same on the bottom and hit it a few times with a hammer should loosen it up,if that doesn't work a little heat with a propane torch on the a arm around were the bolt is will help.
Took Me to long to type !
Took Me to long to type !
Last edited by sparky77; Feb 19, 2017 at 09:51 AM.
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From: shelby twp,mi,usa
lFront lower a from stuck
Well I've tried all the above suggestions to an avail. Even used my air chisel on the bottom of the bolt, nothing will move. Managed to get my impact wrench on the top of the bolt but it still didn't budge. I hate to try a torch with the fuel pump sitting right above. Sooo I'm done. Just going to replace the ball joint and put it back together without replacing the A frame bushings. Thanks for all your help. I know you tried.