'68 427 Convertible pricing
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,285
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi C,
More interesting photos.
I'll make just one comment.
The seat covers are in the 68 Corvette style…. they're just sort of similar.
Regards,
Alan
The more photos you post the more I'd lower the car's value.
More interesting photos.
I'll make just one comment.
The seat covers are in the 68 Corvette style…. they're just sort of similar.
Regards,
Alan
The more photos you post the more I'd lower the car's value.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,400
Likes: 1,226
From: Tampa Florida
Also, isn't the parking brake console the incorrect '68 style. I would correct the drive belt configuration if it were mine. I don't like seeing one belt for the wp, ps, and alternator. Should be 3 belts, 1- crank to wp belt, 2- crank to wp to ps belt, and 3- ps to alt belt.
Advanced
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 54
Likes: 3
From: Pewaukee Wisconsin
Wow! I am really impressed with your knowledge of these cars! I have really learned a lot and I am not even the guy thinking of buying this car! Thank you for taking the time to give your EXPERT feedback....we all appreciate it!
It's a pretty car, but it sure doesn't look like a "frame-off" restoration to me.
The engine is shiny, but the rest of the engine compartment, doesn't look like it's been detailed. Wrong valve covers, water outlet, and it's hard to tell from the pictures, but the air cleaner may be aftermarket too, the filter in it is. Hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like the fan clutch is missing and the fuel lines look wrong, so the carb may be wrong also?
The car has an aftermarket radio, and the wrong antenna. It's also missing the interior quarter trim retainers, and possibly the interior quarter trim panels themselves. I think 68's used a chrome auto shift ball, not the black plastic one. The wheels look like they might be 69 up 15x8's, not the one year only 68 15x7's.
Do you know what the original colors were? Have you seen the trim tag, or at least know what codes are on it? The horn buttons on 68's were color keyed to the interior. The black horn button on that car looks like an original button, which makes me wonder if the car might have had a black interior originally? I do pre-purchase inspections, and when someone sends me pictures of interiors with missing trim, or mismatched colors, I immediately become suspicious of the interior color.
One final thing I noticed was the tach. 68 390 and 400's used a 5600 rpm tach, that car has the 435 horse 6500 rpm redline tach? Is there any kind of documentation with the car? Do you know if the car really was originally a big block?
None of the above should be a deal killer. It's just stuff that you need to consider when weighing the purchase of this, or any Corvette. At $37,000, I think the price is high for a wrong motor car. There's enough red flags in the pictures, that I wouldn't even consider the car unless you can see it yourself, or have it inspected by someone knowledgeable about 68's.
The expansion tank is correct for that car. 68 and 69 no air 427's used that expansion tank, it was only cars with air conditioning that used the long thin copper expansion tank.
Cars with Q-Jet carbs have a return line, and the 68 427/390 used a Q-Jet and should have a return line. It was only the cars with Holley carbs, (the 427/400, 427/435 & L-88's), that didn't use the return line.
The engine is shiny, but the rest of the engine compartment, doesn't look like it's been detailed. Wrong valve covers, water outlet, and it's hard to tell from the pictures, but the air cleaner may be aftermarket too, the filter in it is. Hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like the fan clutch is missing and the fuel lines look wrong, so the carb may be wrong also?
The car has an aftermarket radio, and the wrong antenna. It's also missing the interior quarter trim retainers, and possibly the interior quarter trim panels themselves. I think 68's used a chrome auto shift ball, not the black plastic one. The wheels look like they might be 69 up 15x8's, not the one year only 68 15x7's.
Do you know what the original colors were? Have you seen the trim tag, or at least know what codes are on it? The horn buttons on 68's were color keyed to the interior. The black horn button on that car looks like an original button, which makes me wonder if the car might have had a black interior originally? I do pre-purchase inspections, and when someone sends me pictures of interiors with missing trim, or mismatched colors, I immediately become suspicious of the interior color.
One final thing I noticed was the tach. 68 390 and 400's used a 5600 rpm tach, that car has the 435 horse 6500 rpm redline tach? Is there any kind of documentation with the car? Do you know if the car really was originally a big block?
None of the above should be a deal killer. It's just stuff that you need to consider when weighing the purchase of this, or any Corvette. At $37,000, I think the price is high for a wrong motor car. There's enough red flags in the pictures, that I wouldn't even consider the car unless you can see it yourself, or have it inspected by someone knowledgeable about 68's.
The expansion tank is correct for that car. 68 and 69 no air 427's used that expansion tank, it was only cars with air conditioning that used the long thin copper expansion tank.
Cars with Q-Jet carbs have a return line, and the 68 427/390 used a Q-Jet and should have a return line. It was only the cars with Holley carbs, (the 427/400, 427/435 & L-88's), that didn't use the return line.
Advanced
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 54
Likes: 3
From: Pewaukee Wisconsin
Wow! I am really impressed with your knowledge of these cars! I have really learned a lot and I am not even the guy thinking of buying this car! Thank you for taking the time to give your EXPERT feedback....we all appreciate it!
It's a pretty car, but it sure doesn't look like a "frame-off" restoration to me.
The engine is shiny, but the rest of the engine compartment, doesn't look like it's been detailed. Wrong valve covers, water outlet, and it's hard to tell from the pictures, but the air cleaner may be aftermarket too, the filter in it is. Hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like the fan clutch is missing and the fuel lines look wrong, so the carb may be wrong also?
The car has an aftermarket radio, and the wrong antenna. It's also missing the interior quarter trim retainers, and possibly the interior quarter trim panels themselves. I think 68's used a chrome auto shift ball, not the black plastic one. The wheels look like they might be 69 up 15x8's, not the one year only 68 15x7's.
Do you know what the original colors were? Have you seen the trim tag, or at least know what codes are on it? The horn buttons on 68's were color keyed to the interior. The black horn button on that car looks like an original button, which makes me wonder if the car might have had a black interior originally? I do pre-purchase inspections, and when someone sends me pictures of interiors with missing trim, or mismatched colors, I immediately become suspicious of the interior color.
One final thing I noticed was the tach. 68 390 and 400's used a 5600 rpm tach, that car has the 435 horse 6500 rpm redline tach? Is there any kind of documentation with the car? Do you know if the car really was originally a big block?
None of the above should be a deal killer. It's just stuff that you need to consider when weighing the purchase of this, or any Corvette. At $37,000, I think the price is high for a wrong motor car. There's enough red flags in the pictures, that I wouldn't even consider the car unless you can see it yourself, or have it inspected by someone knowledgeable about 68's.
The expansion tank is correct for that car. 68 and 69 no air 427's used that expansion tank, it was only cars with air conditioning that used the long thin copper expansion tank.
Cars with Q-Jet carbs have a return line, and the 68 427/390 used a Q-Jet and should have a return line. It was only the cars with Holley carbs, (the 427/400, 427/435 & L-88's), that didn't use the return line.
The engine is shiny, but the rest of the engine compartment, doesn't look like it's been detailed. Wrong valve covers, water outlet, and it's hard to tell from the pictures, but the air cleaner may be aftermarket too, the filter in it is. Hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like the fan clutch is missing and the fuel lines look wrong, so the carb may be wrong also?
The car has an aftermarket radio, and the wrong antenna. It's also missing the interior quarter trim retainers, and possibly the interior quarter trim panels themselves. I think 68's used a chrome auto shift ball, not the black plastic one. The wheels look like they might be 69 up 15x8's, not the one year only 68 15x7's.
Do you know what the original colors were? Have you seen the trim tag, or at least know what codes are on it? The horn buttons on 68's were color keyed to the interior. The black horn button on that car looks like an original button, which makes me wonder if the car might have had a black interior originally? I do pre-purchase inspections, and when someone sends me pictures of interiors with missing trim, or mismatched colors, I immediately become suspicious of the interior color.
One final thing I noticed was the tach. 68 390 and 400's used a 5600 rpm tach, that car has the 435 horse 6500 rpm redline tach? Is there any kind of documentation with the car? Do you know if the car really was originally a big block?
None of the above should be a deal killer. It's just stuff that you need to consider when weighing the purchase of this, or any Corvette. At $37,000, I think the price is high for a wrong motor car. There's enough red flags in the pictures, that I wouldn't even consider the car unless you can see it yourself, or have it inspected by someone knowledgeable about 68's.
The expansion tank is correct for that car. 68 and 69 no air 427's used that expansion tank, it was only cars with air conditioning that used the long thin copper expansion tank.
Cars with Q-Jet carbs have a return line, and the 68 427/390 used a Q-Jet and should have a return line. It was only the cars with Holley carbs, (the 427/400, 427/435 & L-88's), that didn't use the return line.
Drifting
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 44
From: Calgary Alberta
I'd run for the hills on this one unless it was cheap (and it isn't).
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Instructor
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 178
Likes: 22
From: Vermont
joeinbcs: Lets get back to your original question about the car's value. I haven't seen anything written here that says the car is in bad shape. The appearance is very nice. From what I've read ( and my opinion ) the members have suggested that anything near $37,000. is at the high-end of its value and there are other big blocks for sale at that price. You like the color combination: Great ! Isn't that where most of us start to be attracted to a car ? You can make ANY modifications you want: How much money do you have ?
I'm replacing the dead A/C in my 71 with Vintage Air. Price sounds good at $1400. . but can you install it ? MAJOR job that could cost another $1500. in labor.
About the auction: not only does the seller pay a fee, so does the buyer. Usually 8-10%. Factor that in when bidding.
If you like it; buy it. Just get ready to spend money. It's your decision, not ours.
I'm replacing the dead A/C in my 71 with Vintage Air. Price sounds good at $1400. . but can you install it ? MAJOR job that could cost another $1500. in labor.
About the auction: not only does the seller pay a fee, so does the buyer. Usually 8-10%. Factor that in when bidding.
If you like it; buy it. Just get ready to spend money. It's your decision, not ours.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,285
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Tim,
"I haven't seen anything written here that says the car is in bad shape."
While not 'written', the photo showing the left side upper corner of the windshield header/pillar gives me reason to pause!
Regards,
Alan
"I haven't seen anything written here that says the car is in bad shape."
While not 'written', the photo showing the left side upper corner of the windshield header/pillar gives me reason to pause!
Regards,
Alan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,400
Likes: 1,226
From: Tampa Florida
Or, are you referring to the windshield trim fit?
Last edited by 71 Green 454; Feb 19, 2017 at 04:04 PM.
Instructor
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 178
Likes: 22
From: Vermont
Alan: I agree that there are several areas that would cause me some concern also. But we can always find something that will give us a reason to pause. Are there ANY perfect driver's cars out there ? My point was that the car doesn't look like it went through a hurricane or dropped off a building and can be corrected to any level the buyer can afford. $$$$ But why jump into a car that he knows needs work & has a few questionable issues. At $37,000. I feel that he can get a better car that doesn't need as much work and has more useable options.
But if he likes the color, that's a decision only he can make.
ME ?? I would be interested at no more than $25,000.-$29,000. max, knowing it would need more work and $$ after the purchase.
joeinbcs: Pay close attention to what Allan & others are saying. It will save you money and, most importantly, aggravation later.
But if he likes the color, that's a decision only he can make.
ME ?? I would be interested at no more than $25,000.-$29,000. max, knowing it would need more work and $$ after the purchase.
joeinbcs: Pay close attention to what Allan & others are saying. It will save you money and, most importantly, aggravation later.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,683
Likes: 3,137
From: Shamong, NJ
The more pictures you post, the more that shows up.
From the underside pictures, it looks like it may need a radiator, and maybe even a core support.
As has been pointed out, the rear valance is a 69, without the back up lights, and it looks like it has later one piece rocker panels on it, not the 68-69 two piece ones. The parking brake console is a 69-76, and the seat belts are replacements. The fender louver trim inserts were not available in 68, they were only offered in 69. The car also has headers, aftermarket sway bars, adjustable strut rods, chrome timing cover, electric cooling fan, and the belt set up is all wrong. I'm not sure why it has a ballast resister, or what's going on with the overflow hose on the expansion tank? Allen's right about the seat covers too.
This really bothers me. Whoever painted it, couldn't even be bothered to remove the mirror. Just one Allen screw holds the mirror on, but they chose to tape it off instead of removing it. You can see that they only taped the outer wipes too, oh and it looks like they may be 69 up wipes, not the two piece wipes used on 68's? I've got to wonder what other short cuts they took when painting it.
As I said before, it is a pretty car. My problem is that they're asking a lot of money, for what is far from a stock, restored 68. Don't be fooled into thinking it's a restored car, because it's not. With the wrong engine, wrong color, wrong interior, all of the wrong year parts, and all of the aftermarket parts, it is now a modified car to me, and should be priced accordingly.
I'll tell you what I tell anyone I do an inspection for. If you like the car, buy it, the only person that has to be happy with the purchase is you! I just want you to go into it, with your eyes wide open.
Keep in mind though that if you go to sell it in a few years, the next buyer may factor in the cost of repainting it the original LeMans Blue ($10,000) and installing a bright blue interior ($5,000-$6,000), to what they are willing to pay for the car.
From the underside pictures, it looks like it may need a radiator, and maybe even a core support.
As has been pointed out, the rear valance is a 69, without the back up lights, and it looks like it has later one piece rocker panels on it, not the 68-69 two piece ones. The parking brake console is a 69-76, and the seat belts are replacements. The fender louver trim inserts were not available in 68, they were only offered in 69. The car also has headers, aftermarket sway bars, adjustable strut rods, chrome timing cover, electric cooling fan, and the belt set up is all wrong. I'm not sure why it has a ballast resister, or what's going on with the overflow hose on the expansion tank? Allen's right about the seat covers too.
This really bothers me. Whoever painted it, couldn't even be bothered to remove the mirror. Just one Allen screw holds the mirror on, but they chose to tape it off instead of removing it. You can see that they only taped the outer wipes too, oh and it looks like they may be 69 up wipes, not the two piece wipes used on 68's? I've got to wonder what other short cuts they took when painting it.
As I said before, it is a pretty car. My problem is that they're asking a lot of money, for what is far from a stock, restored 68. Don't be fooled into thinking it's a restored car, because it's not. With the wrong engine, wrong color, wrong interior, all of the wrong year parts, and all of the aftermarket parts, it is now a modified car to me, and should be priced accordingly.
I'll tell you what I tell anyone I do an inspection for. If you like the car, buy it, the only person that has to be happy with the purchase is you! I just want you to go into it, with your eyes wide open.
Keep in mind though that if you go to sell it in a few years, the next buyer may factor in the cost of repainting it the original LeMans Blue ($10,000) and installing a bright blue interior ($5,000-$6,000), to what they are willing to pay for the car.
Last edited by gbvette62; Feb 19, 2017 at 04:37 PM.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,221
Likes: 9,359
From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
its missing the rear quarter trim in the interior, the parking brake console is cracked, wrong parking brake console( its missing the two seat belt pockets) and its missing the dust shield, the seat belts are wrong, the rear carpet is a different color than the front, was that a paint bubble, the passenger side windshield trim is not looking like it wants to stay on, the bluing at the bottom of the radiator might suggest a leak, the wiring at the ballast resister doesnt look like it was restored well.
As ALAN says, the more we see the lower the price goes, and the vin missing from the windshield post isnt a good sign,might have been repaired and not replaced.
the positives are the paint looks good, no visible rust on the frame, the door and hood gaps look good
You may want to wait for the auction and stay around $30-33K , you will have to make repairs and add parts to this car
make them an offer, see what they want
As ALAN says, the more we see the lower the price goes, and the vin missing from the windshield post isnt a good sign,might have been repaired and not replaced.
the positives are the paint looks good, no visible rust on the frame, the door and hood gaps look good
You may want to wait for the auction and stay around $30-33K , you will have to make repairs and add parts to this car
make them an offer, see what they want
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Feb 19, 2017 at 05:02 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,458
Likes: 331
From: Indy Indiana
lots of folks are saying here that for 37K.. it better be in top shape and matching numbers/ no rust, very correct, no excuses.. I disagree.. you might get that for 50K. you have to decide your requirements.
going to auction means that 6K or so is going into the auctioneer's pocket.. money that does not get to be part of the negotiated price. without an auction, you can pay more and the seller can let it go for less and the same money changes hands.
if you are looking at 30K cars then you have wiggle room for probably condition/numbers and price. definately look at the rust issues and that should be a show stopper if anything more than tiny surface rust is found at that price.
also factor in your acquisition costs. do you have to ship it? what value do you place on your search? I have seen folks so particular that they looked for years and spent thousands of $ and hundreds of hours of their time chasing down their car.. in some cases passing up on pretty nice cars because of a couple K$ negotiation failures.
finding a no rust, great paint, great condition, big block, convertible is going to cost you.. even more if you require all the correctness that several members are suggesting here.
going to auction means that 6K or so is going into the auctioneer's pocket.. money that does not get to be part of the negotiated price. without an auction, you can pay more and the seller can let it go for less and the same money changes hands.
if you are looking at 30K cars then you have wiggle room for probably condition/numbers and price. definately look at the rust issues and that should be a show stopper if anything more than tiny surface rust is found at that price.
also factor in your acquisition costs. do you have to ship it? what value do you place on your search? I have seen folks so particular that they looked for years and spent thousands of $ and hundreds of hours of their time chasing down their car.. in some cases passing up on pretty nice cars because of a couple K$ negotiation failures.
finding a no rust, great paint, great condition, big block, convertible is going to cost you.. even more if you require all the correctness that several members are suggesting here.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 114
Likes: 18
From: College Station Texas
Thanks for all the help on this car.
I don't think its the right one for me. I'm more interested in a car that has not veered so far from its original state, and in a more highly optioned car. As somebody pointed out, its likely to be pretty hot in the cabin, and one of the reasons I sold my '64 was that it was a non-A/C car. It was a numbers matching car, and I didn't want to add Vintage air because of its effect on the car's value. It was silver/red (coupe). More fun to look at in my garage than it was to drive except for a few months in the winter here in southeast Texas.
Thanks again for all the help!
I don't think its the right one for me. I'm more interested in a car that has not veered so far from its original state, and in a more highly optioned car. As somebody pointed out, its likely to be pretty hot in the cabin, and one of the reasons I sold my '64 was that it was a non-A/C car. It was a numbers matching car, and I didn't want to add Vintage air because of its effect on the car's value. It was silver/red (coupe). More fun to look at in my garage than it was to drive except for a few months in the winter here in southeast Texas.
Thanks again for all the help!
Last edited by joeinbcs; Feb 20, 2017 at 07:43 AM.
Drifting
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From: Los Gatos CA
Melting Slicks
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