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I just finished a frustrating couple of weeks sorting out why my power curve died at 4800 rpm after switching to aluminum heads on my 68 convert with NOM 454. After going thru fuel, carb, ignition possible problems I found the machine shop which assembled the valves had the installed closed seat spring height off by 0.225 inch (too tall). This decreased the spring pressure to the point that I got valve float. I installed new/stiffer valve springs, carefully checked installed height and finally got the problem solved...................only to have another problem crop up. Now my wipers- which worked properly- did not work. Long story short- sometime during working on the car I bumped the wiper override switch. I confirmed it this morning- when the battery was dead from the current drain. I now have the !@#$%^& switch duct taped in the off position.
You likely have a cracked switch that is now leaking vacuum (or, sucking air, if you prefer). You just need to bypass the valve to verify that sending vacuum to the proper hose WILL open the wiper door. It is still possible that the 'bump' just happened at the same time as when another 'fault' in that system occurred. [Maybe a vacuum line came off from above at the same time you bumped the switch.]
It is just best to check out the system and verify that 1) the switch really is the problem and 2) replacing the switch really will fix the problem.
You likely have a cracked switch that is now leaking vacuum (or, sucking air, if you prefer). You just need to bypass the valve to verify that sending vacuum to the proper hose WILL open the wiper door. It is still possible that the 'bump' just happened at the same time as when another 'fault' in that system occurred. [Maybe a vacuum line came off from above at the same time you bumped the switch.]
It is just best to check out the system and verify that 1) the switch really is the problem and 2) replacing the switch really will fix the problem.
I think Ron is referring to the ELECTRICAL override switch...which is unique to the 68 and could drain the battery down by the warning lamp staying on thanks to that switch.
I think Ron is referring to the ELECTRICAL override switch...which is unique to the 68 and could drain the battery down by the warning lamp staying on thanks to that switch.
Correct- the electrical bypass switch that allows the wipers to stay up if you need to change blades, etc. When I put the switch in the correct off position and charged up the battery, the wipers now work OK. On my early 68 there is no dash warning light to alert you that the switch is on. (seat belt, door ajar and low fuel lights only). So- if you forget it is on, it drains the battery and the wipers will not operate. The PO removed the wiper door, installed a long style hood and removed all of the troublesome vacuum components. He also cut off most of the wires, but my new wiring harness and a new bypass switch got the wipers working. Only took me three months to get it sorted out. The GM engineer who designed the 1968 ww system should be shot.
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just put a dot of white paint where you can see it when its off. you'll be able to see the position at a glance. you could also remove the **** and put a nylon washer on the switch then replace the **** creating enough friction that it cant be bumped on.
Congrats on solving the valve float, I don't think I would have figured that out
just put a dot of white paint where you can see it when its off. you'll be able to see the position at a glance. you could also remove the **** and put a nylon washer on the switch then replace the **** creating enough friction that it cant be bumped on.
Congrats on solving the valve float, I don't think I would have figured that out
Thanks for the suggestions on the switch. I will definitely put the white dot there to show its position. I may have to modify the switch to add tension. The original switch did not work at all and the replacement switch I bought has such a weak set screw on the plastic **** it barely supports the weight of the ****. It fell off once and was lying on the carpet. I may cross drill the hole and put a threaded screw in place.
I can't really take credit for solving the valve float problem. The installed spring height was real low on my list of suspected problems and I got to it only after exhausting all of the other issues. I bought the heads and had the valves installed by a well-established large engine builder in CA. Didn't think I needed to double check their work. ajrothm on the forum diagnosed the problem early on and deserves the credit. So, when I started following his advise, it all worked out.
Test the switch with an ohmmeter. If defective, replace it.
I still suspect you pulled a hose loose somewhere else.
Thanks, but I have previously replaced the switch and with it now in the correct off position, the wipers work. All of the vacuum tubing, wiper door, etc. was removed by the PO and are replaced by a long style hood with no need for the vacuum system.
The GM engineer who designed the 1968 ww system should be shot.
Ron- I'd be in line to pull that trigger.. lol.. Be glad you have an early car because the late one with the light is even more of a PITA. Either way, if that switch is in the on position it'll kill a battery pretty quick.
Ron- I'd be in line to pull that trigger.. lol.. Be glad you have an early car because the late one with the light is even more of a PITA. Either way, if that switch is in the on position it'll kill a battery pretty quick.
Does the indicator light say "Dummy, turn off the switch"? JK
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