Paint question for DUB
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 997
Likes: 210
From: Schaumburg IL
Paint question for DUB
So last year I picked up a chip center of the hood and I am looking at repairing it myself. The paint is 69 white nothing special but it was painted last year and I love to drive my car and there is a lot of traffic around here so I imagine this will be one of many chips.
Looking at a couple of threads where people used a chip repair system I noticed one thing and that is DUB not discouraging the system but suggesting using GM paint repair with a brush with only a strand or two. This seams very straight forward did a lot of plastic modeling as a kid so this and patience is something I have.
Steps
Clean chipped area
apply paint slowly, very slowly let dry between coats to get as smooth of a transition between the chip and the original paint.
Is that all or am I missing something.
Jack
Looking at a couple of threads where people used a chip repair system I noticed one thing and that is DUB not discouraging the system but suggesting using GM paint repair with a brush with only a strand or two. This seams very straight forward did a lot of plastic modeling as a kid so this and patience is something I have.
Steps
Clean chipped area
apply paint slowly, very slowly let dry between coats to get as smooth of a transition between the chip and the original paint.
Is that all or am I missing something.
Jack
Racer
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 493
Likes: 65
Use a soft bristle brush, apply a coat to the chip and let it dry by the manufacturers directions. Do this as many times as it takes for the chip to fill to the surrounding paint level.
Put a piece of 800 or 1000 grit wet-or-dry paper in a bucket of water with a few drops of dish soap in it. Leave the paper long enough to curl up on itself, that ensures it's completely wet.
If it's a flat, or fairly flat surface, use a flat piece of rubber, I recommend getting one at a painting supply, if you don't have one.
Sand in a straight line, and don't follow what Mr. Miagi says in the movie, it's a bad idea, trust me. Don't press too hard, just enough to let the sandpaper work. I wouldn't do a big area either, just enough to sand the area, and as little as possible. You'll see in a minute why.
After you think it's pretty smooth, change to a 1500 or 2000 grit. The more steps you do in the process, the easier it will be in the last step, coming up. You can go up to 4000 if you'd like. I've done this for many years, and I go 800 (lightly) 1500, then 2000.
When it's all frosty, and smooth over where the chip was, now you can buff and polish. Use a buffing compound, not the strongest you can find, but a medium (ish) compound (since the car is white, I"d stay away from brown buffing compounds, it will appear to stain the paint). It may take a bit longer, but it'll be less possibility of making a mistake. Remember what you said, you have patience.
After it starts to get a little shine on it, and it won't be a ton of shine, go to a polishing compound. With the polishing compound, you could use one of those dual action electric buffers, if you'd like. Polish the paint until you get a decent shine on it. From there, swirl remover, or wax, that all depends on what the surrounding area looks like. You don't want to have a spot that's glass, and the rest of the car has orange peel, roughish kinda paint. Match the surrounding paint.
For many years, I have used 3M, Meguiars, and Mothers products because they are mostly available at local parts stores (I have to travel more than I'd like to go to a paint supply place)
PM if I didn't cover it well enough, or you have questions.
Put a piece of 800 or 1000 grit wet-or-dry paper in a bucket of water with a few drops of dish soap in it. Leave the paper long enough to curl up on itself, that ensures it's completely wet.
If it's a flat, or fairly flat surface, use a flat piece of rubber, I recommend getting one at a painting supply, if you don't have one.
Sand in a straight line, and don't follow what Mr. Miagi says in the movie, it's a bad idea, trust me. Don't press too hard, just enough to let the sandpaper work. I wouldn't do a big area either, just enough to sand the area, and as little as possible. You'll see in a minute why.
After you think it's pretty smooth, change to a 1500 or 2000 grit. The more steps you do in the process, the easier it will be in the last step, coming up. You can go up to 4000 if you'd like. I've done this for many years, and I go 800 (lightly) 1500, then 2000.
When it's all frosty, and smooth over where the chip was, now you can buff and polish. Use a buffing compound, not the strongest you can find, but a medium (ish) compound (since the car is white, I"d stay away from brown buffing compounds, it will appear to stain the paint). It may take a bit longer, but it'll be less possibility of making a mistake. Remember what you said, you have patience.
After it starts to get a little shine on it, and it won't be a ton of shine, go to a polishing compound. With the polishing compound, you could use one of those dual action electric buffers, if you'd like. Polish the paint until you get a decent shine on it. From there, swirl remover, or wax, that all depends on what the surrounding area looks like. You don't want to have a spot that's glass, and the rest of the car has orange peel, roughish kinda paint. Match the surrounding paint.
For many years, I have used 3M, Meguiars, and Mothers products because they are mostly available at local parts stores (I have to travel more than I'd like to go to a paint supply place)
PM if I didn't cover it well enough, or you have questions.
