Hi all,

I have been slowly fixing my 76 to have it back on the road.
I reached a stage where I am looking at putting the new windshield in place.

I prefer to ask questions and be prepared rather than regretting or doing something even more costly to fix.

I have read quite a few threads about windshield install, polyurethane vs old butyl tape, and got a few useful hints (do it with the 4 wheels on the ground, check the tire pressure, may need a spacer, easier to get the interior back in before the windshield...).

Now, there are a few things I am not certain about and help from the knowledgeable forum would be greatly appreciated!

1/ Spacer: how thick, shape, number, material and position?
Do all new windshields need them?

2/ Paint: my plan is to use a self-etching primer, wet sand, re-prime where needed, paint satin black , wet sand, repeat paint cycle until happy with finish. Does that sound correct?
In terms of paint, I was planning on using POR-15 chassis black paint. However, I read that having the poly or butyl to stick on it may be a challenge. Any paint suggestion?
Given that it is a safety item, I don't want the windshield to either not stick to the paint or stick to a paint which is not holding on the bare metal...

Thanks,

Ced

 

Hi Ced,
I'll try the first of your questions.
The windshield needs to be put in place 'dry' and the trim installed temporarily so that it can be determined how much the glass needs to be 'held' off the windshield frame so the stainless trim can be installed with no gaps between the trim and glass surface.
You won't know if, or how much of, a 'spacer' is required until you do that.
This is a lot of extra work but it's the only way to insure that there won't be gaps when you're finished with the installation.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

just did my windshield with normal local glass replacement guy less than $200
you must remove the trim from the current windshield.
upon telling them of the year car and the windshield must be spaced off the frame.
they said no problem, they brought a foam collar about 7/16 thick with 1 sticky edge.
they placed that foam carefully around the inside perimeter of the glass, after 1 dry fitment test then applied their normal windshield sealant, from special nozzle taller than the foam. we set in place and checked to make sure the sealant had 100% contact and then, I checked the side trim for fitment, perfect. then let setup. Done.

 

I have many of the same questions re: spacers and tape. I used POR-15 on the frame for complete rust prevention, and if you carefully follow the instruction it will bond well to the metal. After you wet sand the POR-15 with 325 grit, I've had good success getting regular paint to bond to it. The POR chassis black may have more sheen than what you want. SEM Trim paint looks good IMO.

If you POR-15 the windshield frame, DO NOT do the VIN tag. Don't ask me how I know

If I decide to cheat and have somebody do the install, do you mind telling me who you used.

 

just realized your local, I will get contact information tonight and forward to you.
they were very careful with my car,making sure it was centered and correct height.
I was a hands on helper. they are mobile and come to you.

 

Hi,
69v's method involves using a' damming strip'.
This is how the windshields were originally installed in St.Louis. A pump-able sealer (thiokol) was used; the strip held the glass off the windshield frame.
Regards,
Alan

Similar to 69V's photo.


The St.Louis method.

 

Is this the damming strip?
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...ndshield-68-82

I could swear a saw one of the vendors had a thicker replacement strip for thinner modern glass, but can't find it. If I used spacers, where would they go without leaving a gap between the damming strip and the windshield frame? I indexed the glass height to the frame before I pulled the windshield, so the trial and error of fitting will hopefully be minimal.

 

Thanks Alan, a dry fit is definitely a must! Excellent reminder!

69vett, very nice job, and even nicer Corvette!
I wish I knew somebody locally who could do the job. I tried a few shops, they declined the work.
On the other hand, I do not mind learning and doing it myself.

I primed the frame this afternoon with some self etching primer and went with some Stain black enamel. The way I see it, I could still wire wheel it back to bare metal if needed.
POR-15 is a bit tougher, and you are correct Kevin, the chassis paint is a bit too shiny.
I will keep the advice in mind for the VIN. I like what 69vett did, and will likely end up doing the same.

I found a youtube video from somebody call EricTheCarGuy. He has an episode where he replaces his windshield and the guy gives quite a few details and some good info on the products he uses. I will try to source them.

Right, tomorrow, more wet sanding/cleaning/painting. and then I can move on to the interior.

 

I used a butyl tape like Wilcox sells but got it at a cheaper non Corvette parts source. The tape doesn't know what kind of car it's going on. I used a urethane glue around that. I got a nice looking clean straight line seal around the glass looking in from the outside. I don't recall the thickness but I did figure out what I needed used the spacer method. I believe you might have trouble finding professional glass installers that won't insist on all urethane installations because of modern over the top safety standards. If you don't, better hope he's got the steady hand of a caulking artist or you're sure to get a sloppy looking install with spacers and thick beads of urethane. I don't think anyone sells damming strips. This is one of those jobs you can get all flustered with too much advice.

I wonder if it has been proven that in a collision, it's safer for the occupants to be restrained by the windshield or crash through it rather than the windshield separating from the car. Seems like a toss up to me.

 

This is really good!

Setting glass - Butyl or Urethane?

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/12-b...ane-aaarg.html

I'm sticking with butyl but some interesting stuff to consider

 

Hi K68,
No, the Willcox link shows the actual 'sealer', not the damming strip.
The damming strip is dense foam with pressure sensitive adhesive on one of it's faces.
It is generally square or slightly rectangular in' section'.
Windshield replacement shops generally have it in various sizes and shapes in rolls.
Regards,
Alan

 

thanks momo608, the Chevelle forum link has some interesting stuff.
They addressed a couple of my concerns regarding which paint (epoxy primer) to use to ensure good adhesion between the urethane and the frame.

Dow Betaseal Express Advanced Cure is the urethane I am leaning toward at the moment.
The way I see it, I can always lay a small triangle shape bead to test the adhesion. If it is good, I remove most of it and lay another layer on the top, for real this time.
From what I understand, windshield installers usually do not remove all of the old urethane and use it as a starting adhesion layer.

 

Hi...my friend needs a new windshield in his '68 in Austin, would you plz forward the info of the company that replaced yours?

Thanks

 

PM Sent. 69Vette lost the contact info but forwarded it to me last year and luckily I saved it (69Vette referred another member to me for the contact info a couple of months ago. That's how I knew he lost the contact info). I was going to call them this week since I'm ready for glass too, but I might let your friend go first so the installer has recent practice.

 

Hey Kevin....received your PM, thanks! Called them and after I told him it was a '68 Vette, he referred me to there other location on N. Lamar, said they have more experience with classic cars. Called them and he has three windshields in stock, I was quite surprised. He is next door to Austin Corvette, does work for them so keeps a few in stock. Price is $329 installed, seems fair to me, he says it is not China glass.

My friends '68 is currently in my possession, my friend is headed out of town so I will bring it to get replaced once this rain turns off.

After looking at the existing windshield, it appears whoever replaced it didnt know what they were doing as there is a huge gap at the top between the trim and glass. Obviously they did not do their homework! Will let you know how it goes.

BTW - my friend just bought the car from a fellow forum member...



Heres a pic of the gap...I can stick my finger in it....

 

That gap is what I'm hoping to avoid. Thanks for letting me know of the change and please do let me know how it goes.

 

I had the windshield on my 68 convert replaced about a year ago. Unless you REALLY insist on doing everything on your car yourself, I would suggest having a professional at a body shop or glass installer do the work. If you crack the glass or make a mistake doing it yourself, you get to do it again and pay twice. My Hagerty insurer recommended a local shop that does old cars and Corvettes and the job was done correctly the first time.

 

Update:

Last Friday, I made the drive from my house near Lake Travis to Low Price Auto Glass on N. Lamar in N. Austin to have a windshield replaced in my friend's car
It was a nice cool morning and enjoyed driving the car with the top down.

I had called previous and the said they had 3 windshields in stock and just come in, I arrived around 9:30. There were no other customers, I checked in and he said pull the car into the shop around the side. I showed him the gap between the existin glass and the trim and told him I wanted to avoid that, they prompted had the windshield out in about 20 min.
He pointed out a little rust hole, didnt surprise me and I dont think it is enough to worry about.







I watched the entire process standing nearby, the installer was very knowledgeable, Austin Corvette is literally right next door and they do all the glass work for them.

Total job took about 1.5hrs at a cost of $356, seemed fair to me and I am pleased. Hope I dont have to replace the windshield in my car but if I ever do, would not hesitate to use these guys again.

 

what glass are youi guys using? how do you like the tint and blackout sections?

 

The glass I had installed is from PGW [Pittsburgh Glass Works] same as the cracked one that was taken out.

This car is far from original so I didnt feel it was worth the effort or cost to source OEM glass, what ever it may be?